Dropped the T56 last night...
Dropped the T56 last night...
http://www.daytonfbody.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=821
Take a look at the pictures in the link.. Dropped the clutch on the first pass and the t56 ended up on the ground.. Didn't even get to use the new nitrous set-up that is what really pisses me off about the deal....
Take a look at the pictures in the link.. Dropped the clutch on the first pass and the t56 ended up on the ground.. Didn't even get to use the new nitrous set-up that is what really pisses me off about the deal....
I would suggest looking up Gforce.. They have a billet output shaft for our trannies.. Sorry to hear about your loss.. Expensive lesson to be learned. im already through my 1st output shaft.. but have a tranny jar started.. Trying to get a headstart..
lol, your right to an extent, i barely have enough money to get my car up to my standards, i'd like to know it's the cheaper things i'm gonna break and save the more expensive ones.
if i get money to play with the big dogs i will, i have some plans in the works but no time soon. in fact when i stop using the lt1 i just may start using a twin, we'll see.
if i get money to play with the big dogs i will, i have some plans in the works but no time soon. in fact when i stop using the lt1 i just may start using a twin, we'll see.
whats wrong with the LT1 motor????? Taner, i break enough for the both of us, and i'm sure you break more than me!!!!! If it wasn't for people like Taner and myself, some of these parts places would go out of business....
... The street twin is great, no better clutch.. I always said that when the T56 went it would throw parts on the ground, and it did....
... The street twin is great, no better clutch.. I always said that when the T56 went it would throw parts on the ground, and it did....
lol, nothing is wrong with the lt1 other than the opticrap.
but i have an opportunity to do something unique, fun and extremely fast and in 3-4 yrs i plan to do it!
yeah, what order do things need replaced, i'm tearing mine down for a rebuild real soon.
theres the standards
steel shift forks
carbon fiber syncro's
how much hp with the output shaft handle?
what about the input shaft?
what else needs replacing?
but i have an opportunity to do something unique, fun and extremely fast and in 3-4 yrs i plan to do it!
yeah, what order do things need replaced, i'm tearing mine down for a rebuild real soon.
theres the standards
steel shift forks
carbon fiber syncro's
how much hp with the output shaft handle?
what about the input shaft?
what else needs replacing?
Last edited by limige; Apr 19, 2004 at 06:08 PM.
The 30 spline output shaft is the real deal all around. It will most probably take care of the shaft failure and also gives more spline engagement so you dont twist the ID splines in the slip yoke. My problems are gone with this arrangement. Also if your hitting that drivetrain that hard you might want to consider a slipper (iron disk) clutch and blowproof bellhousing. The Iron disk will save some parts on launch (It's a bit softer that the Street Twin) and your tootsies will like the Blowproof bellhousing.
I just tested my Softloc adjuatable PP and iron disk last weekend at the track and the setup work remarkably well foir the first time out. I dump and 5000RPM and the car just drives out of the hole. I don't hear that aweful loud "crack" that my Street Twin used to do at launch and at every shift. I can't tell you how many people used to come up to me and asked what I broke on my car. I used to tell them everything's fine, that noise you heard is normal.
I just tested my Softloc adjuatable PP and iron disk last weekend at the track and the setup work remarkably well foir the first time out. I dump and 5000RPM and the car just drives out of the hole. I don't hear that aweful loud "crack" that my Street Twin used to do at launch and at every shift. I can't tell you how many people used to come up to me and asked what I broke on my car. I used to tell them everything's fine, that noise you heard is normal.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 2,407
From: Windsor, Canada: Home of the FASTEST LT1 & LS1 6 spds :)
i went 9.60 on my stock shaft! approximately 780rwhp, that is using a calculator. i think that says enuff! input haven't touched yet (quickly touching wood, lol!!!!!) if you dead hook on a launch at a sticky track you WILL find your weak link, that is from my experiences only!
if i plan on going slower i will go to an iron disk
otherwise i don't think you could pay me to goto another clutch.
if i plan on going slower i will go to an iron disk
otherwise i don't think you could pay me to goto another clutch.
Actually my 60' time improved with a softer clutch. The hit is hard enough to plant the tires but not so violent as to upset the suspension. Certainly not arguing with you Tanner since your 1/4 mile times look more like my 1/8 mile times! I bracket race heavily and the Street Twin pretty much kept me working on drivetrain all the time so I opted for a softer setup. My proof will be in the pudding if I can make it a whole season without trashing my 12 bolt. Don't get me wrong, I loved the Street Twin. There's not a better clutch out there that fits the stock LT1 bellhousing for street and occasional strip use.
Steve
Steve
ouch..I've gone through my fair share of broken stuff to make a manual car run. I think the viper shaft may be the way to go. Also...which I'm sure you have...check all your suspension geometry. I found a problem with mine and I think that was causing my problems. Have it fixed now and everything is good so far.
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