Drag Racing Setup Questions, QA1 Coilovers
Drag Racing Setup Questions, QA1 Coilovers
Well, I am finishing my current setup as you can see in my signature. I just purchased 2 front QA-1 R Shocks, 275# springs, and the spohn real coilover setup, with 150# springs. On install, what are some baseline ride heights I should be looking for? What are you guys successfully using? Also, i'm running stock sway bars, what do you all use? Another question is tires. I have a set of stockers in the garage, is anyone running some slicks on them...or are pro stars that much of an advantage? I am going to be running a big shot, about 200, what are you manual cars doing to handle that much? Im thinking progressive and locking out 1st and possibly second. Im just looking for some general tips. I have been involved in circle track racing for years, so I understand the concepts of setting up a chassis, weighing it, and adjusting to track/what the car wants. Just looking for some baseline specs, since my car has been lowered for about 3 years, I have no clue even where stock ride height is at. Any other tips, or suggestions on the QA-1 setups, or anything in general is appreciated.
front QA1's I have the spring compressed to 11.5 inches. I have the rear shocks set hard as they will go. I launch @ 5800 with 3.89 gears and M/T ET Streets( 11.5-15-26")
I spray right out of the hole and I'm still running the stock rear sway bar. I plan on changing to a full drag sway bar this winter and adding a rollbar. want to get my 60' down in the low 1.4's. between a little weight loss( car and driver) and suspension work I should be there.
I spray right out of the hole and I'm still running the stock rear sway bar. I plan on changing to a full drag sway bar this winter and adding a rollbar. want to get my 60' down in the low 1.4's. between a little weight loss( car and driver) and suspension work I should be there.
get a drag bar and remove the front bar
also the aluminum 3.5 driveshaft might have to go. I have one(CCI) and have broken the welds twice. The weld is harder and more brittle.
I spray out of the hole thought.
15 inch wheels would be better. slicks are better on a stick than dragradials
Run the front one 1-2 and the rears as stiff as the track will allow
I usually go 1.44-45.
the ride height shouldn't matter as long as you can get the lca and instant center right
also the aluminum 3.5 driveshaft might have to go. I have one(CCI) and have broken the welds twice. The weld is harder and more brittle.
I spray out of the hole thought.
15 inch wheels would be better. slicks are better on a stick than dragradials
Run the front one 1-2 and the rears as stiff as the track will allow
I usually go 1.44-45.
the ride height shouldn't matter as long as you can get the lca and instant center right
Thanks for the good info
Yeah, i did some looking into my driveshaft after you spoke of it since its brand new. PST Claims its good to 1000hp, and has a lifetime guarentee. So I guess I will see how it goes. I won't be spraying out of the hole, unless I deem 1st gear is long enough to make it worth while. For the first season im going to run stocker 16's with some Hoosier Quick E/T's. Thanks for all the replies, it will def. help in the setup. We'll keep everyone posted.
Jason
Jason
You get the best et by giving it as much power as you can as soon as you can. Not spraying in first and maybe even second like you said is not going to net you a good time.
I would also say get a drag style antiroll bar for the back and the front one is just extra weight. A 15 inch rim will help with the 60' times.
I would also say get a drag style antiroll bar for the back and the front one is just extra weight. A 15 inch rim will help with the 60' times.
Traction
The reason I was asking of when everyone was spraying, was because I would imagine there is a point when you lose more time due to loss of traction, rather than operating on only motor. I was also worried about how short first gear would be, if I was even at 100hp shot at that point. Also, what kind of street driving downfalls will I see by removing the front sway bar?
Put enough tire on it that it can handle the spray out of the hole. Then your main concern will be keeping the front wheels on the ground. If you don't spray in 1st, you'll probably be giving up 2/10ths in the first 60-ft.
Removing the front sway bar, and going to a super stiff rear bar is going to make cornering fairly unpredictable. Generally, increasing rear sway bar stiffness, without increasing front sway bar stiffness causes an increase in over-steer. But with no front bar at all its going to be hairy. I don't think I've driven mine on the street with street tires since I installed the Spohn rear bar. With the drag tires on it, which is the only way I've driven it on the street, I wouldn't even attempt to find out how fast it would go around a corner.
I have driven a 4th Gen on the street with no front sway bar and the stock rear sway bar, and the body roll was unbelievable.... enough for the inner fender liner to cut into the sidewall of the rear tires. I know mine doesn't roll like that, with the Spohn bar.
Removing the front sway bar, and going to a super stiff rear bar is going to make cornering fairly unpredictable. Generally, increasing rear sway bar stiffness, without increasing front sway bar stiffness causes an increase in over-steer. But with no front bar at all its going to be hairy. I don't think I've driven mine on the street with street tires since I installed the Spohn rear bar. With the drag tires on it, which is the only way I've driven it on the street, I wouldn't even attempt to find out how fast it would go around a corner.
I have driven a 4th Gen on the street with no front sway bar and the stock rear sway bar, and the body roll was unbelievable.... enough for the inner fender liner to cut into the sidewall of the rear tires. I know mine doesn't roll like that, with the Spohn bar.
Last edited by Injuneer; Jan 2, 2009 at 09:34 AM.
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