Battery relocation(to trunk)
04-30-2009, 05:23 PM
#2
Administrator
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Brunswick, Maine 04011
Posts: 3,667
GM High Tech Performance has an article here:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ech/index.html
I would urge you to be very careful with running the cable from the back to the front as they can chafe on the steel floor bottoms... When that happens flame can result. Trust me on this...
I have a ground in the baclk next to the battery and a second ground up front. I also have a larger heavy duty ground strap for the engine block that replaced the dinky stock item. You may want to consider a mini high torque starter as well.
I have 1 gauge wire in mine.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ech/index.html
I would urge you to be very careful with running the cable from the back to the front as they can chafe on the steel floor bottoms... When that happens flame can result. Trust me on this...
I have a ground in the baclk next to the battery and a second ground up front. I also have a larger heavy duty ground strap for the engine block that replaced the dinky stock item. You may want to consider a mini high torque starter as well.
I have 1 gauge wire in mine.
Last edited by TedH; 04-30-2009 at 05:26 PM.
06-07-2009, 08:37 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oshkosh, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,309
If you are going to the track you'll need a few more items to make it legal.
I fabbed my own box out of aluminum and used the correct hardware to fasten, per rules.
I hid mine behind the panel where the spare WAS located. I included some remote terminals to jump. I also used an Optima battery that can be mounted anyway you'd like.
I had struggled with the mounting of the kill switch. I didn't want to put any holes in the body panels. I have since made an isolator for the positive cables on the bottom side to protect the exposed ends and to retain them if something were to come loose. When passing thru the sheeetmetal, be sure to use some thick rubber grommets. Like said above, chafing is bad. I also ran everything inside wire looms for added protection. I also used the largest wire size that was available in the kit. I figured it can't hurt.The location is still the same and the basic idea is still intact.
I then ran new ground straps from the drivers side head to the chassis. I also ran another ground from the ground stud on the passenger side to the block along with another ground from the battery to the motor mount. Kinda overkill but I know it will work. No pics of this.
I also wired in a alternator kill switch by Painless. It is located in the area of the old battery location. I also mounted my MSD box in there as well. Moving the battery cleared up a lot of space. I was glad for it. Not to mention I have more weight under the rear.
I fabbed my own box out of aluminum and used the correct hardware to fasten, per rules.
I hid mine behind the panel where the spare WAS located. I included some remote terminals to jump. I also used an Optima battery that can be mounted anyway you'd like.
I had struggled with the mounting of the kill switch. I didn't want to put any holes in the body panels. I have since made an isolator for the positive cables on the bottom side to protect the exposed ends and to retain them if something were to come loose. When passing thru the sheeetmetal, be sure to use some thick rubber grommets. Like said above, chafing is bad. I also ran everything inside wire looms for added protection. I also used the largest wire size that was available in the kit. I figured it can't hurt.The location is still the same and the basic idea is still intact.
I then ran new ground straps from the drivers side head to the chassis. I also ran another ground from the ground stud on the passenger side to the block along with another ground from the battery to the motor mount. Kinda overkill but I know it will work. No pics of this.
I also wired in a alternator kill switch by Painless. It is located in the area of the old battery location. I also mounted my MSD box in there as well. Moving the battery cleared up a lot of space. I was glad for it. Not to mention I have more weight under the rear.
06-07-2009, 11:00 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Camanche IA
Posts: 393
Thats funny. I know I'm beyond the common street car but my car is 3175 with me in it.
At a certain point the nhra wants a battery disconnect. It's easier if it is in the rear of the vehicle. 9.99 and quicker or 135 mph I beleave.
At a certain point the nhra wants a battery disconnect. It's easier if it is in the rear of the vehicle. 9.99 and quicker or 135 mph I beleave.
Last edited by jakesz28; 06-07-2009 at 11:06 AM.
06-07-2009, 11:10 AM
#7
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,646
LJ has a good writeup
http://para.noid.org/~lj/Battery/TrunkBatt.htm
And another possibility, locate the battery outside the body, to avoid the sealed/vented box requirement (no passenger side exhaust pipe helps):
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...B/DCP03816.jpg
I thought I'd try the Braille light-weight battery in the front. Still needed a bolt in the bracket when this photo was taken. So far its working fine.
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...ne/Braille.jpg
http://para.noid.org/~lj/Battery/TrunkBatt.htm
And another possibility, locate the battery outside the body, to avoid the sealed/vented box requirement (no passenger side exhaust pipe helps):
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...B/DCP03816.jpg
I thought I'd try the Braille light-weight battery in the front. Still needed a bolt in the bracket when this photo was taken. So far its working fine.
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...ne/Braille.jpg
Last edited by Injuneer; 06-07-2009 at 11:25 AM.
06-17-2009, 10:42 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,706
If you are going to the track you'll need a few more items to make it legal.
I fabbed my own box out of aluminum and used the correct hardware to fasten, per rules.
I hid mine behind the panel where the spare WAS located. I included some remote terminals to jump. I also used an Optima battery that can be mounted anyway you'd like.
I had struggled with the mounting of the kill switch. I didn't want to put any holes in the body panels. I have since made an isolator for the positive cables on the bottom side to protect the exposed ends and to retain them if something were to come loose. When passing thru the sheeetmetal, be sure to use some thick rubber grommets. Like said above, chafing is bad. I also ran everything inside wire looms for added protection. I also used the largest wire size that was available in the kit. I figured it can't hurt.The location is still the same and the basic idea is still intact.
I then ran new ground straps from the drivers side head to the chassis. I also ran another ground from the ground stud on the passenger side to the block along with another ground from the battery to the motor mount. Kinda overkill but I know it will work. No pics of this.
I also wired in a alternator kill switch by Painless. It is located in the area of the old battery location. I also mounted my MSD box in there as well. Moving the battery cleared up a lot of space. I was glad for it. Not to mention I have more weight under the rear.
I fabbed my own box out of aluminum and used the correct hardware to fasten, per rules.
I hid mine behind the panel where the spare WAS located. I included some remote terminals to jump. I also used an Optima battery that can be mounted anyway you'd like.
I had struggled with the mounting of the kill switch. I didn't want to put any holes in the body panels. I have since made an isolator for the positive cables on the bottom side to protect the exposed ends and to retain them if something were to come loose. When passing thru the sheeetmetal, be sure to use some thick rubber grommets. Like said above, chafing is bad. I also ran everything inside wire looms for added protection. I also used the largest wire size that was available in the kit. I figured it can't hurt.The location is still the same and the basic idea is still intact.
I then ran new ground straps from the drivers side head to the chassis. I also ran another ground from the ground stud on the passenger side to the block along with another ground from the battery to the motor mount. Kinda overkill but I know it will work. No pics of this.
I also wired in a alternator kill switch by Painless. It is located in the area of the old battery location. I also mounted my MSD box in there as well. Moving the battery cleared up a lot of space. I was glad for it. Not to mention I have more weight under the rear.
06-18-2009, 05:17 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oshkosh, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,309
I fabbed my own box up because the summit one was MASSIVE and wouldn't fit where I wanted it also. I don't remmeber offhand the dimensions but could measure if you are interested. Plus, the battery is mounted out of position but that is possible with the Optima.
06-18-2009, 09:52 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Friendswood, TX, USA
Posts: 3,769
On metal body panels, you should use these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1431/ not gromets.
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