Can I use 0 gauge amp wire? How do you guys make the connections at the front of the car for the alternator, starter, etc..? Distribution block?

 

GM High Tech Performance has an article here:

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ech/index.html

I would urge you to be very careful with running the cable from the back to the front as they can chafe on the steel floor bottoms... When that happens flame can result. Trust me on this...

I have a ground in the baclk next to the battery and a second ground up front. I also have a larger heavy duty ground strap for the engine block that replaced the dinky stock item. You may want to consider a mini high torque starter as well.

I have 1 gauge wire in mine.

 

If you are going to the track you'll need a few more items to make it legal.
I fabbed my own box out of aluminum and used the correct hardware to fasten, per rules.



I hid mine behind the panel where the spare WAS located. I included some remote terminals to jump. I also used an Optima battery that can be mounted anyway you'd like.



I had struggled with the mounting of the kill switch. I didn't want to put any holes in the body panels. I have since made an isolator for the positive cables on the bottom side to protect the exposed ends and to retain them if something were to come loose. When passing thru the sheeetmetal, be sure to use some thick rubber grommets. Like said above, chafing is bad. I also ran everything inside wire looms for added protection. I also used the largest wire size that was available in the kit. I figured it can't hurt.The location is still the same and the basic idea is still intact.



I then ran new ground straps from the drivers side head to the chassis. I also ran another ground from the ground stud on the passenger side to the block along with another ground from the battery to the motor mount. Kinda overkill but I know it will work. No pics of this.


I also wired in a alternator kill switch by Painless. It is located in the area of the old battery location. I also mounted my MSD box in there as well. Moving the battery cleared up a lot of space. I was glad for it. Not to mention I have more weight under the rear.

 

Thats a nice set up there ^^^^^^^^^^

 

I just put a lightweight battery in the stock location, beats all the extra bs and weight you are adding.

 

Thats funny. I know I'm beyond the common street car but my car is 3175 with me in it.

At a certain point the nhra wants a battery disconnect. It's easier if it is in the rear of the vehicle. 9.99 and quicker or 135 mph I beleave.

 

LJ has a good writeup

http://para.noid.org/~lj/Battery/TrunkBatt.htm

And another possibility, locate the battery outside the body, to avoid the sealed/vented box requirement (no passenger side exhaust pipe helps):

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...B/DCP03816.jpg

I thought I'd try the Braille light-weight battery in the front. Still needed a bolt in the bracket when this photo was taken. So far its working fine.

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...ne/Braille.jpg

 

NHRA wants a cut off switch anytime the battery is relocated.

 

what size battery are you running? and my danged box wouldnt fit in the spare well, i had to delete the t-top brackets and put mine in the well down there

 

Optima Red top.

I fabbed my own box up because the summit one was MASSIVE and wouldn't fit where I wanted it also. I don't remmeber offhand the dimensions but could measure if you are interested. Plus, the battery is mounted out of position but that is possible with the Optima.

 

On metal body panels, you should use these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1431/ not gromets.