So far this experience has not gone good.
What's been done so far is this.
New Battery 1000amp capable.
Put ground straps from the battery in the rear to the frame, ran a ground wire to the front, also ran a new ground strap from the motor to the frame and another one from the wire that I ran to the front to the body. Than I connected this new ground wire to the existing ground wire that connected to the battery in the front. I also ran a hot wire through a cut-off switch in the rear to the front and connected that to the existing wire that was already there from the battery. I connected these wires to the battery terminals wires by using a bolt and nut.

What I'm experiencing is the guages MPH and TACH started to bouncing all over the place not to mention it fells like it's missing I know it's not opti related is because when I put the battery back up to the front the bouncing guages goes away and it acts normal no missing at all.

I ran 2-quage wire for the ground and the hot wire.

Does anybody know why I'm experiencing these symptoms?

 

Damn, it sounds like you did it correctly.
All I can say is check all your connections. I would take all of them apart and reconnect them using a special conductive grease like "NOOX". This makes a better connection and also eliminates corrosion. On the grounds to frame, make sure you grind or scrape down to solid metal. A bad ground will cause your problem. If this doesn't help; get your PCM analyzed, you may have injected a small shock to the elctrical system unintentionally. If still not fixed....install the battery the way it was before the relocation and see if the problem still exists. If it does then you definately have other isssues than your install job.

Good luck.

PS- Also...get a multimeter of some sort that measures resistance. Measure from the battery groung post to the chassis and then to the ground under the hood and every where it makes a connection and make sure you have a "SHORT".

 

First off, the power cable needs to be at least 1/0. You really do need something bigger than 2gauge when running current that far. As for everything else, you should be okay...

I would suggest that if you ran your cable under the car; then put a terminal on it and hook it up directly to your starter. This is the hot cable that I'm talking about of course. Terminal the end, hook it to the starter from the back, thus making your power cable as short as possible (it no longer has to go all the way to the front)... You should have your stock cable from the starter to the power accessories but I just used the stock cable and ran it to the alt and then a small cable to the red box from the alt.


In other words my power supply is like this...

1/0 power cable from batt to starter. From same terminal on starter I have a 2gauge cable going to the alt. From the alt I have an even smaller cable (6or8) running to the red box for the power accessories.

As for your ground, I think you've got the sufficiently covered.
You're gonna find that this is best possible setup I believe.

 

Thanks, I will give it a try.

I know over the weekend the alternator stopped giving output, the darn nut on the inside cam loose I tightened it up and my output voltage kicked up to 13.5-13.8 volts it was hovering around 12.2-12.5 volts. I wonder if this was my problem, I guess I will find out this coming Friday night.

 

Yes, that was defiantely a problem.
Let us know how it is.

About that 2/0 cable. I think that might be over kill. And if you don't need it that would be better because that is alot of extra weight over the 2 gauge.

In past experiences, I had a stereo system that pulled over 100 amps of continuous power from my electrical system and the amps were in the rear of the car. The power was fed to them with (1) 4 gauge wire. That's it. I think you should be ok with the 2 gauge. BUT if you still have issues and you HAVE addressed all the points I stated above, then I would move up to the next size wire from the 2 gauge.

Also, monitor that voltage meter for a solid 5 minutes and see if it fluctuates alot. Once the car is on, it should not vary more than half a volt.

 

there are two 8 gauge black wires going to the battery (1 to neg and 1 to pos) what are these wires and where did you connect them up to. i'm also having problems with my battery relocation attempt.

 

Thanks for the reply's HeavyChevySS, I will found out Thursday to see if this fixed the problem or not. I'm pretty sure that's the problem.

Bigworm - Just need to add some ground straps from the motor to the frame. I will be taking pictures of this project and will be posting them up on the web in the next week or so.

 

I tried to get the battery in the rear to work for a whole year. Never had luck. Bought a red top Optima, no luck. Ran 0 guage cable, no luck.

Then it "duh" dawned on me, even if get it working, I would have to get a master on/off kill switch, drill a hole for that, but the switch, get a certified battery box...etc...

So I ended up yanking all the cable, which probably saved me an easy 20 lbs, bought a dry cell and put it in the stock OEM location.

My red top Optima weighed in at 40 lbs, the battery box I had weighed in at I figure 5 lbs with brackets, all the cabling I had weighed I figure 20 lbs. My dry cell, which is a good one, weighs in at 25 lbs. So I figure I saved 40 lbs by putting a dry cell back up front.

Not to mention is starts everytime, no problems whatsoever.

IMO.

 

I hear what your saying...

By moving the battery to the rear it shifts 2% of the weight to the rear. This really helps out on weight transfer. Plus gives other options up front like getting rid of the overflow and get a lightweight more compact one for the front. This is one reason why the LS1's has a advantage of the LT1's they have less front weight and better weight transfer than us.

I have already got the switched wired in and got an approved battery box.

I just get a kick out of that GM article they done in GMHP about relocating the battery and had no problems with it. Nor did the mention about getting a switch that will cut power to the alternator to make sure it truly does kill the car.

 

What drycell did you get and where did you get it?

 

http://www.geocities.com/jmaxnakron/..._DRY_CELL.html

 

My Dyno bat will crank the car from the back as long as it has a strong..meaning full...charge.

 

I see that battery weighs 25lbs, that sounds pretty light. Is that one of the lightest or are there any much lighter than that? Also what does a stock battery weigh approximately? I was checking out an Optima red top battery today at the parts store and I was shocked at how freaking heavy it was, felt like it weighed 40-50lbs. I'd like to take some weight off my front end, I forgot just how heavy car batteries were.

 

Everything seems to be fine right now.

Alternator outputing 13.5 to 13.7 volts and the cutoff switch works! Must have been the alternator and the lack of grounds.

 

Which nut on the alternator do you mean? I notice my voltage dropping a bit after driving and wonder if I have the same problem (even though my battery is in stock location).