okay, well here's the issue. my car is makin plenty of power but i just cant hook at all. on the street 1st and 1\2 of 2nd is useless. i spin till 55 mph easy.

i got ****ty tires on it right now, and im scared to put anything better because i know these 10 bolts arn't all that great.

when i took it to the track i was cutting like 2.1 and 2.2 60 ft's. i slipped it once and ran a 2.08 but i wasnt a fan of the smell. im launching around 2000-2200 rpm, with lots of heat in the tires. anymore i break loose.

i was thinking about getting a decent set of drag radials like a mt et street radial, or perhaps some nitto's. but im scared for my 10 bolt. let me know what u guys think i should do. im trapping around 113 mph and running a high 12. this should be a low 12 second car. so its really pissin me off.

 

Its a crap shoot. I ran BFGs and cut 1.7 60s with an A4 and I let a friend borrow them for 1 pass and he sheared the splines(M6). If its gonna happen it will. I also ran Nittos, with so-so results, but i got ~12K miles out of them. I would think the 555rs would be the best choice for a stick car. IMO

 

yea the 555r is a ****tier tire, which would actually benefit me. what rpm did he launch at? i was thinking 555r's and dont warm em up, get a bit of wheel spin but it would still be WAY better than what im doin now.

 

I have no idea what at what rpm he launched. I would think a small burnout to get the debris off and a ~2400 rpm launch would be a good place to start.

 

Consider it broken with anything that resembles a drag radial or better.

Ryan

 

Anyone ever break their 10-bolts with just good street tires like KDW or GS-D3?

 

i have read about guys breakin the 10 bolt with a prepped track and good street tires. If you shock the rear something will break. Dumping the clutch is a no no. Slipping is the way, but it is not as fast. If you get something sticker that may be it, the first pass or it could last 100. It all depends on the amount of abuse its already taken, track prep, your burnout, launch rpm and style, power, etc. So beware any launch could be your last. I loved going to the track but i get nervous as hell thinking that i may be on a tow truck on the way home. whatever you do good luck, i hope i didn't scare you too much, but everyone told me the same thing when i was buyin dr's.

 

The only solution is going to be a 12 bolt or a 9" especially with a stick car making power. Wouldn't it be nice not to worry too much about breakage? I'm guessing that its not an option for you, but its what you need to do to get your ET down. I know people going 12.teens at 112 so you see you can really benefit from a good rear and sticky tires...

--Alan

 

yea i know, i could afford a rearend right now. but i really dont want to. its 4 grand (cdn) that u really wont get back out of the car. and i dont plan on keeping more than 2 more years.

(buying a 2004 or 05 Chevy Duramax diesel)
i kinda want something super nice to drive year round. my car is stored 6 months of the year

 

well..........i would suggest putting 4.10's in the 10bolt and running Nitto DR's and this is how you leave the line, after you haze the tires just a touch....... Just above idle slipping the clutch a bit and your rear will live and your low 12's should come with some practice.

Before everybody jumps on the "he will be lucky if he makes it to the Track" before the stock 10bolt breaks...........I have been running 4.30's in my 7.5 10bolt for 2yrs on Nitto DR's and no breakage. I run consistant 1.78-1.82 60' times........
Click here to see Video

that vid is with the 4.30's, full weight, shifting @ 6000rpm on a 1.81 60'..........I am putting the new Motive 3.90's in the 10bolt in 2wks so i can get through the traps in 4th

 

so just basically release the clutch like normal driving. but hammer on gas and try not to spin? i wouldnt mind slipping the clutch like that. but ive seen a guy launching at like 4000 rpm and slipping the clutch. it was crazy.. u could smell it huge after.

 

yeah, just leave the line like "normal" driving .....easy off the line and as soon as the car is rolling clutch out mash the hell out of it! Let the gears and motor do the work
Click here to see Video

here is a nice example of how i take off......... weather was 80 degrees 1100+ DA but the humidity was low 45-50%

 

would i be better with just a nice street tire all around? or the only way to get decent is with dr's?

 

I broke 3 rears last year after going to the Mcleod clutch. Before that I had a stock clutch and Kuhmos. I was able to pull off mid 1.8 60' times with that combo. After installing the new clutch, I was no longer able to "slip it" coming out the hole so the street tires were no longer adequate. I got some nittos and the rest is history.

With an m6, wheel hop will be your enemy. The nittos tend to hop a bit more than an et street would.

I think as long as you stick with a stock clutch and/or street tires, you should be fine.

 

Agreed about the clutch........I am running a Ram PowerGrip HD with the 300series race disc which has grip like an Ape but does drive like stock....just tighter pedal pressure. Now with that being said I would not expect this clutch to hold up to high rpm dumps with e.t. streets or slicks.

Moderate to Sever wheel hop is the "straw that broke the camels back" or can be for a 7.5 10bolt. But you want get much if any wheel hop if you leave just above idle.