for a somewhat sophisticated update:

I was checking the pcm's output signal wrong. After redoing the C15 splice (i just rewired the hatch release leg to the ebrake switch, and left c15 open) and still having the same problem, I decided to rethink how I was going about everything.

Since I don't have the pigtail to wire up the solenoid itself, I wanted to make sure I could get the wiring working right before I ordered a pigtail. I was checking the wire d6 with a powerprobe (a digital circuit tester designed to not put a load on circuits), and it was always showing a ground. I should have used a voltmeter, because although there was enough of a ground to show a signal, it had too much resistance to actually complete a circuit. When I used a test light with a solid power feed, the pcm switches the ground exactly as supposed to.

So, I have no idea if I even had a problem at all. Or, possibly changing to an actual m6 program fixed it, or getting rid of the c15 ground fixed it. As frustrating as it is to realize I was the problem the whole time, I'm glad to have finally figured it out. Thanks to all who contributed!

 

Glad you figured it out. You do need a m6 program. The d6 pin is used for the torque converter clutch on the auto program. Hooking up the hatch release to the parking brake is the best way and I think it is the way the factory wired the m6 cars. Someone in an old post had a problem passing an emission test with the wires connected. I think it made the pcm think the car was in park all the time and that made the EGR not work correctly.

 

That's weird, you'd think a tps, map, and vss signal would help the pcm realize the car is actually moving instead of a ground signal from the p/n switch. Oh well.. And yeah it is safer having the hatch release hooked up to the parking brake, I didn't think I'd use it that much when I wired it..kinda got used to just leaving manual cars in gear when parking.

 

Ok guys, put the solenoid in and wired it up and it works perfectly!

So the key tips to the guys who are having problems with this, make sure c15-that's the orange/black wire- isn't grounded (which happens when you jump the two wires for the hatch release together at the safety neutral switch,) and use an m6 program.

The wires you need are already at the automatic tranny connecter -no need to run excessive lengths of wire- pink had +12v w/ ignition, and brown is hooked up to d6 (on a 95 formula) The reverse lockout solenoid and skipshift solenoid, although not interchangable, have the same thread and will fit into both spots on the t56. The shiftlock naturally rests in, and pops out when energized, and the reverse lock naturally rests out, and pops in when energized.

 

Glad to hear you figured it out. I'm going opposite directions in a few months. I will be doing the M6-A4 conversion and am always reading threads that discuss the subject.