Hey savannah Dan, you must work for Gulfstream I assume? I flew into SAV last weekend to do the superbowl with my buddy. Anyways. Minus the injectors and the TB I have the same setup in my car as you. If you want I can send you my tune as well. And WS6T3RROR, If you don't mind could you send that file of yours to me as well, I would like to take a look at your shift tables, I just scaled mine like you said. Also would like to see your take on the idle areas as well, I had a hell of a time getting rid of a bad surge at idle with my setup. learjet3@gmail.com

 

You both have mail.

 

Yep, been at Gulfstream since '86. Man, that's a long time! I got the file. Thanks!

 

So I'm thinking, should I go ahead and come up with some funds and replace my torque converter with one with a higher stall since I haven't mated the engine to the tranny yet and now would be a good as any time to do it? If so, how high should I go?

 

My advice on a converter, call up Circle D Specialties and talk to Chris the owner about a converter. My advice would be to go with about a 3200 converter but go with a smaller diameter than stock converter. The reason being is you can shave a lot of weight out of the converter by doing so and that will make for a very nice performance gain. The larger bodied ones he has in the 2600-2800 range and are cheaper are just fine but the performance is not the same as the smaller diameter pieces and the feel is quite different imo and not in a good way. Do not cheap out on a converter whatever you do, you will regret it immediately if you do. With the lockup converter and you're gearing do not be afraid to throw some converter at it because once its locked up its just like stock on the highway.

The shift tables in the file I sent you will still work just fine with a stall as well. Thats what they were designed around. If your shifts feel mushy after the stall consider a shift kit rather than trying to mess with programming or gadgets to firm them up. I have rebuilt many 4l60e's and after being inside of them and knowing the software and hardware part of it the hardware shift kit wins hands down imo.

It will take you some getting used to in town, you'll have to learn that exhaust sound and rpm do not equate to acceleration, only where the pedal is counts there.

 

The TransGo HD2 is an excellent shift kit. I went with one washer (you'll understand) and it was smooth at part throttle and very firm at full throttle.
I put a 3400 stall in mine. Very streetable, lots of fun under the gun.
And you will most certainly want a cooler for the transmission. The B&M 70264 is very popular. I bypassed the radiator "cooler" and have no regrets.

 

Use a long tru-cool lpd4490 cooler its the biggest and most efficient you can get in an fbody. Mount it up in front of the radiator with some flat strapping. I don't recommend bypassing the factory cooler, just put the new one after the oem cooler. Buy some hose clamps from a parts store for the barbed fittings, the ones that come with it are **** and will back off after 6-8 months and give you a bitching leak probably at an inopportune time.

The transgo kit is ok absolutely nothing wrong with it, but I prefer to work with a trans shop and purchase the parts they use (accumulator springs, separator plate) to make the shift kit for their units. A shop that really knows transmissions has no need to buy a 'kit' and prefers to size everything and select springs themselves. If you do decide to modify the shifts start with a new separator plate and look into using Torlon shift ***** instead of the steel ones like oem. Sometimes with a shift kit the steel oem ***** can wear into the separator plate and become lodged, when that happens you will lose a gear or have other problems due to the hydraulic malfunction that will result. The Torlon ***** eliminate this possibility and they are CHEAP.

 

Just realized that I haven't bought new spark plugs yet. Suggestions for my setup?

 

If compression is stock +- 0.5 then use an ngk tr5. I like to gap them at 0.035 but they will work at the out of the box 0.038".

 

Question about the resistor mod. I was just wondering why most people put the resistor on the circuit board in the PCM as opposed to putting it in the wiring harness. I understand the plug-n-play aspect of the in-PCM application, but to me having the resistor outside the PCM with a SPDT switch would be a better alternative. You don't even need a switch. You could just disconnect it from the ground lug if a OBDII PCM was going back in. Just thinking out loud here.

 

WS6T3RROR, question about the tune you sent me. There are a couple of changes from my initial plans. I ended up deleting the EGR. I went with 24# SVO injectors (F1TE-D9A) that were already in the car. I'm going to change the rear out at a later date, and the stock torque converter went back in. Rear gears are 2.73.

What changes do I need to make to the file you sent me? Thanks.

 

Egr codes and timing are already gone in that file.

For the injectors you will have to change the constant for them to whatever 24# svo's run at gm fuel pressures. The difference is small enough 24# will work but if you want it nuts on you need to calculate it out, its probably closer to 25#.

You can use the wizard thats built into tunercats under tools to make the adjustment to the gears, just put in the correct info and it will scale everything. You may need to make some adjustment to the converter lockup tables, to make it lock up at a lower mph.

The car will be a dog with a cam a stock converter and those rear gears. You've moved the power to high rpm but everything about your drivetrain is now low rpm and will lug the engine.

If you cant follow that instruction I can send you an updated file but it will probably be a couple weeks before I get to it.

 

Finally got the car down off of jack stands and have put about 20 miles on it. I went ahead and put the rear in the car that has the 373s in it. The car has a whole new attitude. I still have to make the changes for the injectors I installed. I'm not going to mess with any tranny adjustments until I drive it for a while.

It is running really rich, but for now that's fine with me because I filled the gas tank to the top the day before the head gasket blew which was over a year ago, so good riddance to old gas. I'll do some data logging after I fill up with some fresh gas.

 

Running really rich based on what? There should not be anything rich about that tuneup besides maybe not having the correct injector constants if you changed hardware and did not update software which is a bad idea in any case. I'll still help with any tune issues/questions you may have.

 

You're right. I believe the tune you gave me had the constants set for the 30# Accels I was going to install. I ended up putting the 24#SVOs back in. I'm going to try to make time to change the constants tonight. I appreciate all the help you have provided.