I have a 93 Mustang coupe that i am going to use as a donor car for a 93 LT1 engine. I am going to use the 93 4L60 trans. and I also planning on keeping the AC on the engine. What I would like to know os there anyone who can help walk me through modify my stock LT1 harness. I have little experience with this so maybe you can help. I need to know what inputs I do and don't need. I have transpanted other engines in the past so I think I will have no problem mounting the engine.

Thanks All

 

Just to clarify... you are taking an LT1 engine from an F-Body "donor" car, and installing it, along with a matching 4L60 in a 1993 Mustang????

The harness will have all the connections required to function as it does in a stock 93 F-Body. You need to address the interfaces to external systems, and you need to determine what functions you plan to delete when the engine goes into the Mustang. Will you be keeping the emissions systems like the AIR, EGR and EVAP? Will you be using a recirculated loop fuel system like the F-Body with an in-tank pump? Do you need to drive a tach from the stock harness? Will you be running in closed loop with the O2 sensors? Will the system have dual radiator fans like the LT1? Will you interface the ECM to an SES light on the dash? Will you be attempting to keep the VATS anti-theft system? Do you plan to interface the ECM with a P/N interlock to the shifter?

 

I have a engine from a 93 Z28 LT1 with the 4L60 trans I also have what appears to be a complete engine wiring harness with the computer. For the emissions I would like to delete what I can not to worried about getting it inspected. On the fuel system I will be running a in tank pump and not to sure is the recirculated loop fuel system is this returning some of the fuel back to the tank if so yes I will. I will also need to drive my stock tach and stock mustang gauges via the Z computer. On the O2 sensors I will be running a closed loop system not to sure but is an open loop system deleting the o2 sensors is this right. On the electric fans I will be using one large electric fan unless this will be a problem. On the ses light is this the check engine light if so yes I will be using this. I want to bypass the vats system. I will also be using the p/n switch.

Thanks for your help

 

I have done this swap, my very first LT1 actually, but have installed it in 4 different vehicles.

If you sent me your Memcal for a small fee I could reprogram it and remove the VATS, Emisions from it.

I could also convert this harness to a easy hookup with fuese relays all in harness if you would like, again a small fee..i'm not out to make money, but compensate my time (show my girlfriend that my time spent doing this stuff does pay out) lol

I also have the shop manual for that year if you have any questions.

connector # C100

a - pnk - power feed from injector fuse 9
b - dk grn/wht - a/c compressore relay control
c - dk grn - ac compressor clutch sol feed
d - tan - serial data signal
e - brn - air pump relay control
f - brn - power feed from fans/sols fuse 6
g - pnk - power feed from ign fuse ``
h -dk blu - secondary coolant fan relay control
j - dk grn - primary coolant fan relay control
k - pnk - power feed from injector fuse 10

connector # C210

a not sure
b - blk/white - ecm ground
c - orange - ecm battery feed
d not sure

connector # C220
Engine Harness to IP harness has 10 wires, white color maybe
a - red - alternator feed to ip
b - tan - oil pressure feed to ip
c - brn - oil level feed to ip
d - not used
e - not used on auto cars
f - gry - fuel pump motor feed
g - dk grn/white - vehicle speed signal
h - not used
j - dk grn/wht - fuel pump relay control - this goes to fuel pump relay + side
k - dk grn - coolant temp feed to ip

** letter I is not used

connector # C230

a - not used
b - brn/wht - SES light feed
c - wht/blk - diag request signal
d - wht - tach signal to ip
e - dk blu - theft deterrent - fuel enable feed
f - dk grn/wht - ac request
g - pnk - power feed from ecm ign fues #5
h - lt blu/blk - tcc switched power feed
j - orn/blk - park/neutral feed from trans pos switch
k - tan/blk - TCC control

good luck

 

Thanks for the reply I would like to try my luck at doing this swap. I have been wanting to try and transpant an engine with a computer for a while. I would appreciate all the help you will give. I was wondering when you called the connectors by number, are the connectors numbered and if so where. I also would like to know what manual you have and if it came through the dealership. I would like to get one mabe it will help me better understand the wiring. Also is there a book that you know about that is a how to book on the wiring on this kind of swap. I would like to know if it would be possible to test fire the engine prior to instalation if so what do I need. I do appreciate your help.

Badzcoupe

 

the connectors are not labled.

I have a 1993 Pontiac service manual for a Firebird, covers 5.7 LT1.

Sometimes, there are slight differences between Camaro and Firebird, but should be mostly the same.

Look at the wire colors on my previous post to help identify which connector you are dealing with.

GM has been nice to always use a fairly standard wire color system

pinks are fused key power
oranges are fused battery power
black/white strip are ground.

***Here are the essential things you need to get it running****************
C210 pin C, ORANGE - battery feed to PCM, 10 amp fused

3 eye-let connectors in harness near coil/module connector, engine block (ground)

C100 pin F, BRN - key 12v+ feed to EVAP, EGR solenoids, book shows 10amp fused

C230 pin G, PINK - key 12v+ feed to PCM

C100 pin A, PINK - key 12v+ feed to Injectors 2,4,6,8 7.5amp
C100 pin K, PINK - key 12v+ feed to Injectors 1,3,5,7 7.5amp

C100 pin G, PINK - key 12v+ feed to Coil, Ignition Module 10 amp

C220 pin J, Dk Green/White - fuel pump relay control 12v+ connect to one side of relay coil, other side to ground, then wire up your fuel pump with say 15 amp fuse.

C230 pin E, dk blue - fuel enable signal - hack stock module or build a unit to defeat it, see my website www.lt1swap.com for info, or have chip modified to delete this option.

that should be it to get it fired up. then you can mess with ses light, cooling fans, etc..good luck

****************************

a few things to note:
fuel pump relay: computer supplys (12v+) to the relay, wire other side to ground
cooling fan relays: computer supplys (ground) to the relay, wire other side to key fused power.

ses light : computer supplys (ground) to turn on light, wire other side of bulb to key fused power.

If you decide to not have your chip reprogrammed, you will need to have all emissions solenoids, relays hooked up to prevent ses light. even then the computer can detect that part of the emissions systems missing during road tests it performs.

C100 pin F brn - I belive this wire feeds your egr, evap solenoids with fused power, the computer supplys ground when it commands these.

To prevent the computer from throwing a Quad Driver Module code within the first 30 seconds of operation, the following must be hooked up.
Fuel Pump Relay, Fan1 Relay, Fan2 Relay, EGR Sol, EVAP Sol, Air Pump Relay

If you don't have a 2nd fan, or don't run an AIR pump, thats fine, but the relay needs to be there. When the code sets it will defaultly turn on cooling fans. Even a SES light bulb missing will set a code.

 

To expand on the emissions issues:

-You've already explained the AIR pump. With a good fuse in the circuit and the relay in place there will not be a code/SES. There are no further performance checks on the AIR system in OBD-I.

-The EVAP vacuum solenoid can be deleted, and a resistor of similar value to the solenoid inserted in the harness. There are no further checks on EVAP system performance in OBD-I.

-The EGR vacuum solenoid can be deleted, as with the EVAP solenoid. There is a diagnostic to detect EGR flow, but its not very sensitive. There is a way to wire the EGR solenoid leads to pull a resistor into the MAP sensor circuit to simulate the change in MAP that the diagnostic routine it looking for when the EGR is turned on/off. Since 93 is speed-density, the effects of the MAP resistance change may be more important than on the MAF engines, but it should be minor, since EGR only operates at low rpm/low-to-moderate loads.

The speedo may be an issue, depending on what sort of signal the Mustang speedo is looking for. Dakota Digital makes an interface/conversion box that will often solve that issue.

In the 93's there's some sort of "filter" used on the LT1 tach signal. You need to determine if this filter is required for the Mustang tach, and if the interface signal is otherwise compatible.

The ECM does not drive the "gauges".

-Fuel level comes from the tank float, directly to the gauge. That will remain unchanged in the Mustang

-Oil pressure comes from a sensor in the port right above the oil filter, and goes directly to the gauge. You would have to verify compatibility of the Mustang gauge and the LT1 pressure sensor. You could just install a Mustang sensor.

-Coolant temp comes from a sensor in the driver's side head, and goes directly to the gauge. Again, verify compatibility of the Mustang gauge to the LT1 sensor.

-Battery voltage is simply an electrical connection to the charging system, and that would appear easy to solve, if it even needs to be changed at all.

 

I was able to keep the EGR solenoid hooked up with the vacuum line going into the intake. I put a small screen over the other end of it.

When EGR was commanded, it would simply bleed in air into the intake, this was enough to fool the diagnostic test.

anyways...anything else let me know.

 

Unknown connectors the first one is located by the alt plug the IAC plug and TPS plug it is a two pin plug and has a tan and blk wire in it is this the IAC?

The next one is in the section of harness with C 210, C230, and C220 it is a three pin plug it is small in size pin A wire is grey B is dark blue and C is blk is this the A/C evaporator temp sensor?

On plug C 210 just to be sure
pin A is a large purple wire and is the ignition wire to starter solenoid
pin B blk/white ecm ground
pin C orange ecm battery feed
pin D not used

Next by connector C 100 there is a small single pin plug with a grey wire in it, is this the fuel pump prime lead, and also in the same branch as C 100 there is two plugs one is a three pin plug
A BLK
B Grey
C Red/Blk

and the two pin plug has two dark green wires in it.
By the starter are three eyed connectors two are blk/white do these tie to the engine block and the larger gauge purple goes to the iignition side of the soenoid.

Thanks for all the help I still have allot of questions but I am getting there.

 

This is your Intake Air Temp sensor, pin A black, pin B tan

yes AC evap temp sensor is correct

yes those are all correct

grey single plug is fuel pump prime
three pin plug looks like A/C Refrigerant pressor sensor

two pin plug looks like maybe A/C low pressure cut off switch
you can test it to see. C100 pin C dk green should be connected to pin A of the two pin plug. pin B of the two pin plug should be connected to pin A of the A/C compressor clutch connector. my diagram shows dk green for both wires.


There should be two grounds, one to starter according to the picture i see.

 

ever get this going?