Spark retard going from part-throttle to WOT
Spark retard going from part-throttle to WOT
I've had this off and on for awhile now and can't seem to pin it down.
Sometimes when I am at part-throttle and then go to WOT, I will get spark retard. I am unsure where to pull timing, because I am going directly from around 50kpa to 100kpa. I need to get this fixed because I am now running nitrous, and it's still happening, which is obviously not good.
Any suggestions?
Sometimes when I am at part-throttle and then go to WOT, I will get spark retard. I am unsure where to pull timing, because I am going directly from around 50kpa to 100kpa. I need to get this fixed because I am now running nitrous, and it's still happening, which is obviously not good.
Any suggestions?
Well, I suggest you do a search on this forum for the subject because we have talked about it in the past.
As for now, the main thing to find out is if it is real or false knock causing your retard. I suggest using high octane gas 100+ and see if it makes a difference. If not (like me) then we dig deeper.
What I did to solve my false knock is this:
1. Replaced the knock sensor - used teflon tape on it as well as tightening it below specs.
2. Replaced the knock sensor wire from the computer to the sensor itself with 18 gauge to give me better insulation from erroneous electrical interference
3. Replaced my LT4 KM with a new LT4 KM.
4. Reduced my sensor sensitivity by 30%
Now, since this was all done at once, I do not know what actually did the trick, but it worked.
Oh in addition, I have reduced the aggression of the timing retard to 1/10th of its original value. Overall, I still get retard (which is good) but it is not the 10 degrees + I was getting.
Hope this helps
Ben
As for now, the main thing to find out is if it is real or false knock causing your retard. I suggest using high octane gas 100+ and see if it makes a difference. If not (like me) then we dig deeper.
What I did to solve my false knock is this:
1. Replaced the knock sensor - used teflon tape on it as well as tightening it below specs.
2. Replaced the knock sensor wire from the computer to the sensor itself with 18 gauge to give me better insulation from erroneous electrical interference
3. Replaced my LT4 KM with a new LT4 KM.
4. Reduced my sensor sensitivity by 30%
Now, since this was all done at once, I do not know what actually did the trick, but it worked.
Oh in addition, I have reduced the aggression of the timing retard to 1/10th of its original value. Overall, I still get retard (which is good) but it is not the 10 degrees + I was getting.
Hope this helps
Ben
Thanks for the reply.
I know about spark retard troubleshooting in general, but this is a more specific question.
It is, where should I remove timing if I'm getting retard going directly rom 50kpa to 100kpa? Do I lower the advance at 50kpa, 100kpa, or somewhere between?
Solomon
I know about spark retard troubleshooting in general, but this is a more specific question.
It is, where should I remove timing if I'm getting retard going directly rom 50kpa to 100kpa? Do I lower the advance at 50kpa, 100kpa, or somewhere between?
Solomon
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Formula Steve
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Sep 19, 2023 08:31 AM



