I am getting alot of knock retard. I was at the dyno about 2-3 weeks ago and was getting 5*, I also discovered I had bad O2's. I have since replaced the O2's and the car does run better. I took it out for the first time last night just to run around and test the O2's and new electric cutout .

Anyway I gunned it once and got 6* or retard on a short burst. I can hear nothing coming from the engine so I do not think it is internal, my hunch is my new exhaust I have on it, Long-Tubes and such. It is really tight and there are a couple of places it does hit under hard throttle.

Is there a safe way to remove the knock retard, if so what tables would be best? I count five tables to take knock out and one to adjust the rate at which it is added back in. BTW, I am using TunerCat.

Thanks,

 

Always check for real knock before assuming its false. First course is to just rev it while scanning (parked). Next, run very high octane and scan it under load (driving).

You aren't mentioning enough details like how much retard your taking out, what octane, and boost if any. Another question is if the knock shows up right when floored everytime. I think burst knock will show up immediately when floored and drop back down after that. False knock does no occur when flooring the pedal slower.

Hal

 

I don't mean to shanghi your thread but I have a question to tack on.

I have my Burst knock completely zeroed but I still get knock when I rev in park. I don't get it if I slowly rev the engine.

I see it on my scan master but I'm curious to find out if it is actually being record in the knock count or if the pc is showing the retard without actually pulling timing.

 

I am running 93 octane, always. No power adder and I do not think it happens when slowly pressing the gas. I am getting 5-6* of retard.

 

What are your 02's reading when it knocks? If its over 850 I would say its safe to use resistors on the knock sensor or set it to not remove any advance with the pcm.

Hal

 

L-.892 R-.875 at the time the 6* of knock occurs.

 

I wouldn't worry about it then. Must be the headers whacking the sides.

Hal

 

Do you have an LT4 knock module in the PCM?
if not this might help, Also what kind of valve covers are you running??? metal/aluminum ones actually amplify lifter noise and can register as knock by the PCM. They make a set of composite LT4 valve covers that actually dampen lifter noise and reduce false knock being picked up by the PCM. you can ask 385LT1 from the project trans am forum over at www.ws6zxr.com about it for more info. and liek someone already said, headers can cause some knock as well.

 

I already have the LT4KM and am running the stock vavle covers. I am probably just going to program out the knock.

I will let you guys know how it goes.

 

I have the same problem too there is no knock when I slowly press the pedal and no knock while idling, but a quick snap to like 1800 rpm it will show knock counts and at most times jump to 10-12* degree spark knock and even the spark advance drops too.
So do I juts have a false knock???


Headers midlenght pacesetter, no cat striaght pipe maganflow muffler no egr new plugs coil wires o2 sensors..