Shift and rev limit problem
Shift and rev limit problem
In tuner cat I set the fuel shutoff for 6505 in first and the kickdown rpm in first to 6300. When my car shifts to second it hits the rev limiter. The kickdown mph is set a 35. I logged my car and the most it goes to is 6375 rpm. I am thinking that I should raise the fuel shutoff a little bit. But my car never gets to the 6505 rpm where it should hit the limit. What should I do?
My car is a 94 Z28. I have a 2800 stall and 3.42 gears. I know the tack is not right. I was going by the Freescan log I made for the rpm. During the shift from first to second, my car would bounce between 6375 and 6075. Then it would finally shift. I just think it is weird that the rev limiter is coming on before the 6505 rpm like I set it.
set the hot kick down shifts points 5 mph lower than they are now. try that. . it may be the famous high stall problem.
send me your bin file and let me look at it. vincentbergeron@yahoo.com
send me your bin file and let me look at it. vincentbergeron@yahoo.com
I read a long thread on some other site were they talked about adjusting the shift linkage on the left side of the trans. Several people would turn the screw like one turn and it fixed there high stall problem. Maybe that's why some have it and some don't. Wish I remembered where I saw the thread.
Originally posted by PoorMan
I read a long thread on some other site were they talked about adjusting the shift linkage on the left side of the trans. Several people would turn the screw like one turn and it fixed there high stall problem. Maybe that's why some have it and some don't. Wish I remembered where I saw the thread.
I read a long thread on some other site were they talked about adjusting the shift linkage on the left side of the trans. Several people would turn the screw like one turn and it fixed there high stall problem. Maybe that's why some have it and some don't. Wish I remembered where I saw the thread.
The first thing to do is get the car up in the air so you can have room to work. Ramps work well or use jackstands. Don't work under a car that is supported by a jack, only. Be sure to engage the parking brake or block the wheels.
Next, you will need to remove the cable end off the transmission shift lever. It is a ball and socket arrangement that will pry off fairly easily with a screwdriver (exercise reasonable care). With the cable end free, manually move the transmission lever to the neutral position as shown. You will have to feel out and count the detents to be sure you are in the correct position. The lever has a tendency to spring out of the PARK position when you pull on it, making it a little difficult to tell what gear is next. I find it easier to pull the lever all the way back to 1, then count up >2>D>OD>N to get it to neutral. This should work even if you have a console gear indicator that does not have the selectable first gear. Move the transmission gear selector in the console to the neutral position.
You could also start this procedure by putting the transmission in neutral with the console selector first. Just as long as you end up with the console selector and the lever on the transmission both in the neutral position.
Release the locking tab located at the cable mounting bracket. You can use a screwdriver to get the tab started up and assist it by pushing from the bottom. Move the tab up high enough so that the cable housing will slide in the adjuster.
Slide the cable end forward and snap it on the transmission lever, taking care that both the transmission and console levers stay in the neutral position. Once the cable is back on the lever, push the locking tab back down. If the tab does not act like it wants to go back down, move the cable housing forward or rearward slightly to allow it to fit in the grooves. Check the selector operation inside the car before lowering the car back down. Re-adjust if needed.
if anyone tries this and it does or does not work , please post your results.
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armedtrigger
LT1 Based Engine Tech
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Feb 24, 2015 08:30 PM



