How would i go about fixing the knock issue i have.
1994 Camaro Z28 LT1
MSD cap/rotor
MSD 8.5mm "super conductor" wires
MSD blaster coil
Transformabuilt L2 w/ 2800 Stall
SLP Cold air intake w/ K&N filters
NGK Tr55-IX @ .043
cat-back dual magnaflow exhaust

The knock sencer is fairly new.
original km

i get SR from 0.1 to 6.9deg.


map: 100.4
SR: 6.9D
RPM: 4600

MAP:100.8
SR:5.4D
RPM:4750

74
4423-4439
5153
5162-5282
5538-5560
5586-5597
5628-5675
5906-5963
6553-6690
7418-7568
7784-7819
8541-8601
9600-9670
10266-10318
10640-10643

what exact values should i change in C.A.T.S and to what. I dont want to mess things up.
Thank you everyone for helping out!

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=YB21A7OO

will upload another if anyone thinks they need another one w/ the car doing something else. I didnt go WOT alot, freaking CA traffic. Would that be better to examin?

Should i just get the lt4 KM?

 

Hate to say it but I chased this similar problem. I tried dropping timing up to 10* w/o any results, I enriched up my PE fueling again no help. Finally I bit the bullet and put an LT4 KM. Your timing is good 33* at 4600, 100 MAP , you are in PE mode, maybe a little lean (130 BLM in cell 15) but not bad at all. Then the knock starts and pulls 6* off your timing. With my new LT4 KM I can pull 36* at this setting w/o any knock. You can try dropping the timing in 5* increments accross the top end and see if the knock goes away. If it does then increase it back up till it comes back. I assume you are running 91 or better octane..

 

91 octane only. I own two of thes both w/ the same mods n never ran any lower gas.
you say top end, where would this start? 4000 and higher? all at 100MAP?

Im thinking w/out messing with timings im going to spend the 70-80 on a lt4 KM.

It might be from my exhause at the crossmember past the cat. It was vibrating a bunch when in drive so i grabed a jack n wedged it upwards. It helped but now the vibration is right on my butt. hah!

Im in sacramento CA untill friday...anyone around here carry it so i dont need it shipped so i could get it before i leave??

 

I would start drop timing in the range of 85-100 MAP and 2400-7000 RPM boxes in the main and extended timing tables. Your trace showed PE at 4600 and 100 MAP, but you can enter PE at lower RPM's depending on TPS%. I am running 35-38* across those ranges, but I have a 160* T-Stat and fans set for 175/185 turn-on. Real knock can be fixed by lower compression ratio, higher fuel octane, richer fuel mixture, reduced timing, cooler combustion temps. Timing, T-Stat/Fans and fuel octane and fixing a lean mixture are all you can really change easily..If you drop timing, run good fuel and trace shows a good AFR and it still knocks chances are it's false.

 

Thank you.
I have a 160* stat aswell as the fans to come on early too.
this is the bin i just pulled from the car a fiew days ago.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=W19KZ0VM
Also, the awkward lean/rich you noticed, most likly came from the descreened MAFs that was on the car.

 

Id say thats false knock your timing table are mostly stock except for where you lowered it to 30@100kpa. Im having the same problem, probly due to my longtubes and roller rockers. I wired in a switch to disable the knock sensor but the car runs rich when the knock sensor is deactivated. I cant figure it out?

 

Lowered it? I havnt touched the config. Only thing i done was the shifting in C.A.T.S (automated using the wheel shifting calc.) and the fan settings...

 

Pyro.. what resistance resistor did you use in your bypass switch, I'm wondering if the PCM detected missing KS and is throwing you into some sort of failsafe mode. Any codes ?