ok i just replaced the waterpump and thermostat in my car meaning i had to take off those + coil, air intake....now i have everything back on and working properly and i hooked up my scan tool and it is giving me the code P0100 which is "mass or volume air flow circuit malfunction"...can anyone point me in the right direction as far as what i need to check or replace???

 

P0100 indicates the MAF sensor is outputting a static frequency signal. Its "stuck" on one flow rate, and output is not varying with air flow. Appears you may have damaged the connector for the MAF sensor when you took the air duct off to work on the water pump and t'stat, or maybe you forgot to plug it back in .

Make sure the MAF sensor is plugged in. Then make sure all the pins in the connector are straight and not bent or corroded. If it still isn't working, look for +12V on the pink wire (key on/engine off). In the 97's, its fairly common for the pink wire to break somewhere back in the harness, giving youy 0V at the pin in the connector..... not sure if its something that might also be affecting the 96's.

 

which sensor is the MAF sensor...sorry im fairly new to this just got the car about a month ago and this is my first repair to it...

 

In the inlet air duct just before the rubber elbow that bends around into the throttle body. Photo by Shoebox:

 

hey injuneer, ive had this same problem off and on for a long time.. i got a meter today and tested the connector.. It gets 11v through the connector i didnt strip any of the surround off the power wire and 4.5 v to the yellow wire.. I unplugged the connector and ran the car with it like that and it smoothed it out so much.. Are those voltage readings close enough to what I need? Is it a bad MAF?

 

check the three prongs in the MAF connection that the plug connects to...my problem was that one was bent and not connecting so it gave me the SES...

 

i just pulled the maf out and the prongs inside the connector are perfectly straight.. should i strip some of the wire surround back on the power wire and test it directly?

 

Probe the harness connector by disconnecting it, and putting the meter lead pin into the contacts in the connector. No need to strip any wires.

 

so what to do if the power is low?

 

When you got 11V at the pink wire, what was your battery voltage?

 

battery voltage is just barely above 11v with the key at the on position. Wouldnt everything be running at over 12v with the alternator turning and the car on? I just went outside and tested a dry cell battery that i have in the garage and it was the exact same voltage.. the meters needle is off zero just a tiny bit..

 

an update... also wanting to know if i should have done this or not. I had a stock MAF sensor off of a 97 silverado 350 exact same size and all that i figured since the silverado that year was based off the lt1 that it should work well i hooked it up and it works perfectly.. idle is better than it has been by far since we did the performance upgrades to it.. it starts up and stays at a perfect 1k and it seems to drive stronger than it did also. i was able to break the tires loose at 65mph in 80 degree weather. any thoughts on using this MAF?

 

um if it works then use it...lol

 

that was pretty much my thought on it. i mean how different could they be its basically the same engine?

 

You got lucky..... there was never any version of an LT1 used in a Chevy truck....