fergymoto

Hey guys thanks a ton for your input and advice. I did not think to reset the pcm after I fixed the exhaust rattle.

Yesterday I reset the pcm and unplugged the knock sensor then did some driving around. No more knock retard so that would clear up any issues with the wiring circuit. Here is the log from that knockunplug.uni


I then plugged it in and went out and took another log. Still getting it, but not nearly as much. It did seem to get progressively worse though the more I drove it (pcm learning when to do it?) Here is that log pluggedin_reset.uni


After that I went out for a short highway cruise and did two WOT runs, one from a roll and one going pretty slow starting out in 1st gear. Here is that log. wotandhighway.uni

Based on these new logs taken after the PCM being reset, do you guys still think it is just in the settings at this point or would you say it seems that I still have a mechanical issue? The exhaust rattle seems to be gone and I don't hear anything else making noise other than my roller rockers which sound like a sewing machine.

Also I'm not sure if I mentioned before, but I do have a LT4 knock module in there

WS6T3RROR

Not enough timing at wot need 2 more degrees all acrossed the board in 90-100kpa range.

Tell it your injectors are bigger. Your blms are goofed up (pulling fuel) and your wot is fat.

Either you have false knock or something is banging. I think something is banging the trend is for when you come back down toward idle, or when the engine speed comes down in general. At one point you were showing 9 degrees of knock at idle with 0% tps. You generally always have retard at idle which gos along with something banging since thats when the motor is the roughest.

dookie454

Looks like your PCM settings are A-OK, you are getting excessive Knock Counts that's what making your PCM pull fuel. YOur KNock is in the range of 20K! THat's a huge amount... The more KNock Counts you get the more the PCM pulls timing... KNock Counts is the PCM saying the Knock Sensor is picking up Knock... the Knock Retard is just a calculation of how much timing the PCM decides to pull depending on knock counts.

I would say this is not spark knock but it is either an engine knock or some other rattle, or the knock sensor is messed up.

Majority of the KNock COunts are counting up when your around ~2000 rpm, give or take ~300 rpm. THere are a few counts at 1200rpm and a few at around 3000rpm but none really at WOT.


I've read around where you can put excessive thread sealer or other thin rubbery material on the threads of the Knock Sensor and leave it somewhat loose, or not as tight as you are suppose to, this is suppose to reduce it's sensitivity.

Another thing I know valvetrain makes more noise at certain RPM, maybe you hear more around ~1700-2200rpm than anywhere else?

fergymoto

I don't hear anything down there making any noise anymore. This is starting to get really frustrating. My car is slow as **** right now. I went to the track with my buddy to have some fun today and the sorry *** thing ran 108mph and a best of 109. There are cam only cars that would wax it. It sucks because it makes me look like an idiot having a nice car with some decent mods and it's this slow. I work on other people's cars and built engines and install mods and they never have a lick of trouble.

It has ARP thread sealer on it right now, which is pretty thick stuff. I could loosen it a little and see if it helps.

As for the 1700-2200rpm, my rockers actually do happen to be more noisy at that time than any other. I can here them in the car sometimes.

WS6T3RROR

Comp cams promags right?

Just fix the max spark retard at wot. Its pretty safe to say what the thing is picking up is not real knock.

If it doesnt pick up after that idk because everything looks ok from the sensor readings. Looks a little fat but more timing will probably lean it out, just need to figure out what it wants for air fuel for the best trap speed.

Power should be there from what its showing in the logs. Unless your car is heavy or something is broken I dont see it being that slow. Maybe its time to start doing compression and leakdown tests and looking at the condition of the trans fluid if it doesnt run correctly with the knock tuned out.

fergymoto

Nah I got Trickflow 1.6 roller rockers. Unfortunately those runs were with the knock retard tuned out, so it IS that slow. Car only weighs 3600lbs with me in it. It's not light but it's not a pig. I should be running 115+. I'm going to start looking into other things soon here, but there is nothing apparently wrong with it. It's just slow

fergymoto

Trans fluid smells normal. I got the baddest stock 4L60E in the world lol

I ordered a new OE knock sensor today through my local dealership. Getting it for like $33 or something like that. Right now the car has an Auto Zone special in it, maybe that is part of the problem? For $33 I'll take the chance to verify problem or not.

dookie454

If your car is that much slower then you think it should be and your getting knock counts in the range you say you hear valvetrain noise.. you might have a valvetrain problem. Maybe your not getting lift like you should on one or more cyl. Depending on the problem or noise it could set the knock sensor off.