I did some Datalogging tonight and was wondering if anybody might take a look at it. It shows a MAF error, but I was wondering how everything else looks. It idles okay, but it dies occasionally when turning. It lurches at low speed but runs really strong under acceleration. It smells rich when I first start it as well. I had Bryan do the initial tune and will be sending the files to him as well, I was just wondering what your perspective is. Is the MAF really bad? It is de-screened and on the pressure side. How about the knock retard? I'm running about 43 lbs. of fuel with the vac. off. It has a boost referenced regulator. The best that I am seeing is 6 lbs. of boost. I think everything else is in my sig. I am new to this, but trying to learn right from wrong.
Thanks, Chas

Open Loop:
http://www.verzend.be/v/3292828/121707.uni.html

Closed Loop:
http://www.verzend.be/v/1086509/1217072.uni.html

 

Anybody?

 

In most of the long term fuel cells, its pulling out the max possible amount of fuel using the long term fuel corrections (BLM's). They are at 108, the lower limit, unless the programmer changes the limit. That means its reading the MAF, adding the required fuel, and then cutting out 15% of that fuel because the O2 sensors are telling it the engine is running too rich.

At WOT, since the PCM was cutting fuel in closed loop, the PCM uses Cell 15 and defaults to 128 BLM's. Surprisingly, the stock O2 sensors show 920-940mV's, which doesn't seem that rich for a blower application (would be rich for an NA tune).

All the MAF readings seem normal.... 7 gps at idle, 360+ gps at 5225rpm/WOT. Have you tried clearing the MAF code, to see if it comes back? Appears it may just be a stored code. The knock retard is not that high. There is a 2.5-deg peak right after you shift, and that isn't unusual on lifting throttle shifts. The tuner should be able to determine if he has too much advance programmed in. Generally there is less than 1-deg of retard. What fuel are you using? Have you tried using a higher octane fuel to see if the knock retard goes away?

You might also want to check the fuel pressure more often, at idle, part load and under boost.

 

Thanks Injuneer, I was hoping to grab your attention to look at it. My research on here seems to lead to you being "the man" on this stuff. I have not tried clearing the code as I was unaware that it was there until after those runs, there is no SES light on.

I'm running 91 octane which is the highest premium I can find locally without going to race fuel, which I didn't want to do as it is tuned for premium.

I will send these files to pcmforless now. I just wanted to get educated opinions on what I was looking at as I am going to take a shot at changing the parameters when I feel more comfortable that I have an understanding of what they mean. I have everything I need except for the knowledge. I still have a few months of their service anyway.

I will connect the fuel pressure gauge and lay it under my wiper to keep an eye on it at different times. I sure wish there was more room to get a pod on the cowl without hood interference.

I really appreciate your looking at these files and inputing you knowledge. My research has lead me to somewhat understand what you are telling me, I'm just not yet comfortable enough to change the parameters myself. I still have a few

Chas

 

If your running tunercat, i can send you my latest .bin file for you to compare. I'd be running less timing and more fuel since i'm running about 13psi right now with a T-trim, but you'll get the idea along with the rest of the tune. Let me know.

Ken R.

 

Yes Roguedriver, that would be great! That would definately show me some of the differences. I'd really appreciate it.
Chas

 

I'll shoot it out to you tonight when i get home from work. Do you want to pm me your email or are you publicly linked to your email through the site?

Ken R.

 

Thanks Ken, I got the email, but there was no attachment.
Chas

 

X2

 

It was an after work night. Half asleep....

Ken R.

 

I got it. Thanks Ken, and Merry Christmas!
Chas

 

I've since added a little more timing back into the main timing table. Think it was a little too low. I think the only KR i'm seeing now is false. Sometimes i'll see a few deg of KR just cruising. Same TPS position, speed, blm cell, air flow etc, and out of the blue, a few deg then in immediatly goes away. Think it's just harsh bumps in the road. Will need a passenger to verify this so they can watch the laptop while i'm driving.

Ken R.

 

Harsh bumps? Are you suggesting that we have bad roads Ken? Lol. Thanks for the files. I now have stock files, your files, and my files from PCMforless, now I'm just trying to learn what I can before going to the dyno with it.

Chas

 

Harsh roads? You wouldn't think so with a red light/speed camera everywhere you look!!! You gonna head out to see Chris at the Dyno Edge when you dyno? Thats usually where i go when i make upgrades and do some dyno tuning. He knows my car pretty well. As long as you get your timing and fuel in the ballpark before you go out there, you should be at a good place to start. Probably best to start with the timing pretty low and bump it up on each run with your knock retard turned on in your tune. Once you get the WOT part of your tune dialed in, then you can work on drivability anytime off the dyno. If you have an extra PCM, i'd bring it. I usually bring a backup incase i lose it while tuning there, then i can get home. If you happen to go on a beginning of the week weekday, let me know. Maybe i'll swing by and check it out.

Ken R.

 

I'll definately be taking it to Chris, but I need to get more familiar with the TC software first, unfortunately I'm just starting to get into playing with the pcm and they aren't very familiar with TC. I've got an extra pcm, so that's not an issue.

I'm sending it in next week for some needed paint & bodywork, so it may be a few weeks before I get it over there, but I'll definately let you. Do you spend more time here or at RSW?

Chas