look at this uni file?
look at this uni file?
I have this link to a .uni file its of a single frame or recs. If you all dont mind taking a look at it and just giving me a quick summary of what im looking at anything that I might wanna look at. Im trying to take it slow and first things first just figure out whats what exactly. Thank you in advance I can also email the file because I went through the download process and you have to go through a few pages before it gets to the download (Ads BS).
File Factory (uni file)
File Factory (uni file)
lol yes Injuneer, I emailed you a video (a few records) of an idle I had PMed you about. This is just an attempt to get different people mentioning what different things stand for a snap shot for me, since I am just starting out to familiarize (spelling?) myself with the program and what I am looking at.
and believe it or not it took me about a minute to realize it was only a single frame!
and believe it or not it took me about a minute to realize it was only a single frame!
I have this link to a .uni file its of a single frame or recs. If you all dont mind taking a look at it and just giving me a quick summary of what im looking at anything that I might wanna look at. Im trying to take it slow and first things first just figure out whats what exactly. Thank you in advance I can also email the file because I went through the download process and you have to go through a few pages before it gets to the download (Ads BS).
File Factory (uni file)
File Factory (uni file)
wow... well lets see...
- you have 4 error codes
- neither the IA temp sensor or coolant sensor are working since both values are invalid.
- both fans are on (pretty sure it's because the coolant sensor is inop)
I won't comment on the other things I see because I am only looking at 1 record... You should see why the 2 sensors aren't working, the coolant temp sensor is very important... many things the PCM does relies on that sensor.
I replied on this one on another forum but I guess I could keep them seperate, I also have another log file Ill go ahead and post right now its of an actual run. If anyone is interested or has knowledge on them.
I still cannot get the IAT sensor to read nor the Coolant Temp Sensor yet they are both brand new and I dont think theyd both be duds. I will be checking again later but I wanna say both of those harnesses were reading voltages. My next post following will be the Data Run I did yesterday after getting the starter to start the car. It isnt very long, here and there it was dumping my Data connection. (So if you see very large changes all of a sudden) I didnt wanna drive the car too much as it still need the steering shaft and rag joint swapped out.
I still cannot get the IAT sensor to read nor the Coolant Temp Sensor yet they are both brand new and I dont think theyd both be duds. I will be checking again later but I wanna say both of those harnesses were reading voltages. My next post following will be the Data Run I did yesterday after getting the starter to start the car. It isnt very long, here and there it was dumping my Data connection. (So if you see very large changes all of a sudden) I didnt wanna drive the car too much as it still need the steering shaft and rag joint swapped out.
here is the other uni file I finally got of a run. File Factory RUN 1 There are areas where the data jumps because I would lose my data stream. I need to clean up under the hood getting too much interference.
wow... I feel like I have to work to get that file...
What kind of cable are you using? You have so many data errors it is difficult to extract good information.
The battery voltage is very low... hovering just over 12V sometimes dipping under 12V
record 581-625 indicate idle. Your long term BLMs are lean 138/145. It appears the PCM is able to correct it though.
The 2 inop sensors do play a pretty important role though. The PCM doesn't know if it is running in 4* weather or 100* weather... the PCM doesn't know the engine temp either causing both fans to come on full blast to try to protect the engine from overheating.
Its like a stove top that isn't on... If you put your hand over it you can feel the heat and know not to touch it... but if you couldn't would you touch the coil anyway even if you didn't know how hot it was? Or would you put a fan in front of it to cool it down first just in case?
The PCM will err on the side of caution... whether that is dumping fuel in the engine and retarding the timing to prevent detonation or keeping the fans on to prevent overheating... The PCM isn't programmed to take chances.
What kind of cable are you using? You have so many data errors it is difficult to extract good information.
The battery voltage is very low... hovering just over 12V sometimes dipping under 12V
record 581-625 indicate idle. Your long term BLMs are lean 138/145. It appears the PCM is able to correct it though.
The 2 inop sensors do play a pretty important role though. The PCM doesn't know if it is running in 4* weather or 100* weather... the PCM doesn't know the engine temp either causing both fans to come on full blast to try to protect the engine from overheating.
Its like a stove top that isn't on... If you put your hand over it you can feel the heat and know not to touch it... but if you couldn't would you touch the coil anyway even if you didn't know how hot it was? Or would you put a fan in front of it to cool it down first just in case?
The PCM will err on the side of caution... whether that is dumping fuel in the engine and retarding the timing to prevent detonation or keeping the fans on to prevent overheating... The PCM isn't programmed to take chances.
Last edited by razor02097; Sep 27, 2010 at 09:54 AM.
wow... I feel like I have to work to get that file...
What kind of cable are you using? You have so many data errors it is difficult to extract good information.
The battery voltage is very low... hovering just over 12V sometimes dipping under 12V
record 581-625 indicate idle. Your long term BLMs are lean 138/145. It appears the PCM is able to correct it though.
The 2 inop sensors do play a pretty important role though. The PCM doesn't know if it is running in 4* weather or 100* weather... the PCM doesn't know the engine temp either causing both fans to come on full blast to try to protect the engine from overheating.
Its like a stove top that isn't on... If you put your hand over it you can feel the heat and know not to touch it... but if you couldn't would you touch the coil anyway even if you didn't know how hot it was? Or would you put a fan in front of it to cool it down first just in case?
The PCM will err on the side of caution... whether that is dumping fuel in the engine and retarding the timing to prevent detonation or keeping the fans on to prevent overheating... The PCM isn't programmed to take chances.
What kind of cable are you using? You have so many data errors it is difficult to extract good information.
The battery voltage is very low... hovering just over 12V sometimes dipping under 12V
record 581-625 indicate idle. Your long term BLMs are lean 138/145. It appears the PCM is able to correct it though.
The 2 inop sensors do play a pretty important role though. The PCM doesn't know if it is running in 4* weather or 100* weather... the PCM doesn't know the engine temp either causing both fans to come on full blast to try to protect the engine from overheating.
Its like a stove top that isn't on... If you put your hand over it you can feel the heat and know not to touch it... but if you couldn't would you touch the coil anyway even if you didn't know how hot it was? Or would you put a fan in front of it to cool it down first just in case?
The PCM will err on the side of caution... whether that is dumping fuel in the engine and retarding the timing to prevent detonation or keeping the fans on to prevent overheating... The PCM isn't programmed to take chances.
So what it comes down to is just to figure out what is up with the plugs not wanting to deliver that signal whether it be harness, or dud sensors. Any other possibilities as to why they wouldnt be sending readings to PCM?
I wouldn't rule out wiring or the connector as your issue either. If you can trace the wires through the harness and measure to make sure they haven't rubbed and shorted.
In fact..... A place I would check first (speaking from an experience I had this weekend...) is the harness that extends over the alternator brace. Apparently mine rubbed through the insulation on my IAC servo wires! They shorted on the brace causing erratic idle. fixing the wires fixed the problem... the wires for both AIT and coolant temp sensor run through that harness. They could be shorting against that alternator brace.
usually a defective sensor but you said you replaced them. However unless you verify their function you don't know if they are any good. New sensors can be DOA right out of the box.
In fact..... A place I would check first (speaking from an experience I had this weekend...) is the harness that extends over the alternator brace. Apparently mine rubbed through the insulation on my IAC servo wires! They shorted on the brace causing erratic idle. fixing the wires fixed the problem... the wires for both AIT and coolant temp sensor run through that harness. They could be shorting against that alternator brace.
usually a defective sensor but you said you replaced them. However unless you verify their function you don't know if they are any good. New sensors can be DOA right out of the box.
Last edited by razor02097; Sep 27, 2010 at 11:33 AM.
Very good bro, me and Injuneer had talked about the checking of the sensors. Im going to go ahead check on that later today after work (thank God im back in town!!!) So Ill be checking on ALL the runs of wire, connector points, pins, the works haha. Thanks again man.
Ok update was the harness had loose or worn connector on the inside so I took some needle nose pliers and pried them back a more tight fit, they slid on and made contact and are both reading fine. Once i get the alighnment and rag joint/ steeering shaft swapped out Ill have another data file.
Well here is a log of the run, it is a lot more clean as far as all the data interruption. I still need to clean up wires Ive even put thought as replacing some wires in there. A lot of them are pretty dried up. (Main Engine Harness)
Well im off to bed but here is a copy of this last run I cleared the codes that are there and the engine light is off, these codes never came back up after clearing.
This last run
Well im off to bed but here is a copy of this last run I cleared the codes that are there and the engine light is off, these codes never came back up after clearing.
This last run
well it isn't till record 6056 that the DTC errors clear. You say the SES light is off now?
The sensor inputs look okay but the battery voltage is still very low. It should be 13-14V.
Another thing that sticks out is it isn't idling in cell 16...
The sensor inputs look okay but the battery voltage is still very low. It should be 13-14V.
Another thing that sticks out is it isn't idling in cell 16...
Injuneer had mentioned that too, I have no idea why it isnt idling there to be honest with you, any ideas or things I could look into to find out about that?
As for the battery voltage it sat around for like a week and the only time it runs are for brief couple of minutes here and there when I need to check something or this test run where it went down to a turn around and then back.
Regardless Im going to be buying a deep cycle battery and a high output alternator pretty soon
, for a couple of reasons. Any input on this datamaster file is very much appreciated as Im still just learning a lot of this.
As for the battery voltage it sat around for like a week and the only time it runs are for brief couple of minutes here and there when I need to check something or this test run where it went down to a turn around and then back.
Regardless Im going to be buying a deep cycle battery and a high output alternator pretty soon
, for a couple of reasons. Any input on this datamaster file is very much appreciated as Im still just learning a lot of this.


