How to test O2 sensors heating circuit?
How to test O2 sensors heating circuit?
My car is currently running really rich at idle and when i say it rich i mean jam at 108 blm
In open loop everything is ok but when it goes in closed loop it goes all the way to 108 LT BLM.You can also clearly feel it because the engine seems to have some problem to keep running at idle.The open loop kick back really often to prevent this to happen
From someone who check my logs,my o2 sensors(both) doesnt seems to move really quickly and doesnt cover the normal range in mv(no more than between .400 to .600).
They are not really old(3 or 4 years) and i didnt even drove 5k miles with the car since i had bunch of problem.The motor was brand new and i never had coolant issue(head gasket) that could have contaminated the sensors.
I got a o2 extension from (painless) on the pass side but not on the driver one since it was long enough.
I ve tried my stock lt1 tune(only change for 32 inj) and the same problem occur.
So hes thinking that my o2 sensors are not heating up enough,so how do i test this circuit???
Thanks
Eric
In open loop everything is ok but when it goes in closed loop it goes all the way to 108 LT BLM.You can also clearly feel it because the engine seems to have some problem to keep running at idle.The open loop kick back really often to prevent this to happenFrom someone who check my logs,my o2 sensors(both) doesnt seems to move really quickly and doesnt cover the normal range in mv(no more than between .400 to .600).
They are not really old(3 or 4 years) and i didnt even drove 5k miles with the car since i had bunch of problem.The motor was brand new and i never had coolant issue(head gasket) that could have contaminated the sensors.
I got a o2 extension from (painless) on the pass side but not on the driver one since it was long enough.
I ve tried my stock lt1 tune(only change for 32 inj) and the same problem occur.
So hes thinking that my o2 sensors are not heating up enough,so how do i test this circuit???
Thanks
Eric
Last edited by always faster; Aug 12, 2009 at 07:56 PM.
When you turn the ignition switch to "on", you should have 12V across the black and brown harness wires at the O2 harness connector.
http://shbox.com/1/HO2S_connector.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/HO2S_connector.jpg
When you turn the ignition switch to "on", you should have 12V across the black and brown harness wires at the O2 harness connector.
http://shbox.com/1/HO2S_connector.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/HO2S_connector.jpg
Also while we are there where is the ground(on the car) shown in the drawing below the pictures?
Witch fuse(10 amp) are they also showing us in the same drawing?
Just for you info Fred my valve lash is ok

Thanks
Test the harness for 12 volts. Also remove the sensor and put power to the heating element and the whole sensor should get pretty warm within a couple minutes. If they get covered in soot, they will react very slowly, if at all sometimes. I've had some success reviving dead sensors by using brake cleaner to remove soot when they're cold.
When you turn the ignition switch to "on", you should have 12V across the black and brown harness wires at the O2 harness connector.
http://shbox.com/1/HO2S_connector.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/HO2S_connector.jpg
I get 12.13 volts across the black and brown harness wire on both side(driver connnected direclty and pass thru the extension) so can i assume since i have more than 12v that everything is ok???
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