i went to the ecm constant table and change my inj to 30lbs(inj flow rate)

how do i adjust idle from 800rpm to 900rpm and up more with A/C
i can,t find idle adj

i have read that you have to adj the maf by 20 % so i went from 2.40 gm/sec to 280 @ 1488hz i add 20% up to 2000hz do i have to do the hole thing ? p&p maf

i add 2* timing all the way up to 7000rpm

where to you adj fuel + -

i have no pe table?

i have data master and i max out my lterm +25 ?

is there anything i sould do or not do to get the idle up and lterm down.

the car start and drive fine

F/P is at 49 vac on 30 lbs svo

heads advanced ind cam gm847 all the outher stuff i would like to have the idle and driveablity set up this week then take it to the dyno.

i need all the help

THX

 

There are two tables to adjust:

Click on "tables" then click on "IAC Target RPM Vs Coolant Temp (in Drive)" and then also click on "IAC Target RPM Vs Coolant Temp (in nuetral and park)"

 

So i used iac target rpm vs. coolant temp. in drive i went from 800 rpm to 875rpm all so in iac target rpm vs. coolant in park/drive.

my car is a m6

so this is my idle,

what about my inj is that right

maf sould i adjust it all the way up the rpm

were is my pe table or where do i adjust fuel.

thx

 

Start with 31.6. Run a datalog and watch your blm's. If you're using a stock fuel pressure regulator you might need to go up higher with your constant. Somewhere between 32.2 and 32.6 seems to work fairly well.
If you have an adjustable regulator, set your fuel pressure as close to 43.5psi (with the vacuum line disconnected) as you can and try the 31.6 to start.

I hate ported mafs. Never personally seen one work to anyones advantage. Most of the time people just end up having a hell of a time trying to program for the port work they did. But yes, the 20% you mention sounds about right. You're just going to have to experiment with the maf tables once you have your injector constant set to get you in the ballpark.

No. Why? Stock programming is very aggressive. Most find that they require less timing than what is in the stock program. I would suggest you initially set your timing map between 90 and 100map so that you can bring in 36* as quickly as you can and then carry it out to your shift point. Start low on timing and slowly increase it 1 degree at a time. Go run the car and make a datalog. See when and where you have any knock retard and adjust accordingly. Keep adding or subtracting as the car requires. This requires quite a bit of trial and error. Just start safe and work your way up.

For what? Idle? Part throttle? WOT?
Your closed loop fueling is based off of injector constant and maf tables. Once you have the injector constant set correctly for your car, you can use the maf tables to nail your blms to wherever you want. I think that as long as they are between 118 and 138 that there isn't much point in screwing with it, unless you want to. Remember, the as long as the blms aren't pegged at 108 or 160 then the computer is making its fueling adjustments based on O2 sensor feedback.

You sure?

 

When you change those injectors, make darn sure you change your "injector vs battery voltage" also.

There is a table on this site that has this information.

If you don't, you'll be running pig rich around 5500rpms and the car will slow down. Ask me how I know.

D Moss

 

Bump to the top