My z28 was pulling 15 degrees of timing/ max.. the lt1 knock module was going crazy, false knock.

I ran a 13.4 at 107.

What would I have run if i wasnt getting any timing pulled.

 

According to your sig, you're pulling 380HP and you're only running 13.4? I'd say something's wrong.

 

Retarding 15 degrees will KILL hp. Recently, a car on the dyno was getting false knock. The computer was pulling 10 degrees of timing and it was down >150rwhp (it is a supercharged car making ~550rwhp) with no other changes.

Rich Krause

 

do we even need knock sensors in drag racing?

 

Its there for the engines safety, You dont need need one but its a really good idea... i think im just going to zero it out... i change the oil and always run 93 octane.

the 380 is estimated at teh fly wheel.. so yeah i still should be going faster...
I dont get it.. on the dyno it showed 318wrhp with my short tube heads and i Gained 2 mph with the long tubes so the car should be at around 330wrhp and the torque is alittle more. And thats pulling 15 degrees...

Tuner cat showed the sensor trying to pull 40-90 degrees of timing...
it'd pull 1-4 degrees at idle.. as soon as you hit WOT the computer is trying to retard 40-90.

 

Im having a problem almost exact to this...Im getting almost 12* of knock at certain points at WOT, on the top end...I recently replaced my knock sensor too... What the heck could cause all this??

 

noisy roller rockers are the number 1 cause.. exhaust hitting something in the engine bay...

 

Is there a way to quiet them down?? (rockers) From what I can see, the headers/y-pipe aren't hittin' anything... I wouldn't think I don't have enough octane...I always run 92-93 octane, and I only have 10:8:1 compression...

 

I readjusted LTLHOMER's rockers while it was running. That helped eliminate his false knock. It can be a little messy, however. If you don't have a piece of cardboard or a set of cutout valve covers, expect smoke.

 

I will have to try that..I even have a set of "fabricated" valve covers for this exact job.. I hope that will eliminated most of the knock problem.

 

My knock sensor has been zeroed out for four years. Just took the motor apart and there was no evidence of detonation. Tune it right, use good gas, and turn off the KS.

Just my $0.02.

Rich Krause

 

My car was running lean at WOT as I did not find out until I calibrated my MAF. This along with the fact that I still have stock heat range plugs caused my KR.

With the car running at 12.2 AFR, I have no knock.


Ben