I have a 2500 stall and have been tryin to figure out the tune. I thought I had everything set but it still does it. Can somebody take a look at it and see what ya think? I must not have something set right. Here is the link to the tune file

http://www.monodax.com/forums/tunerc...html#post12984

 

Doing some guessing as you did not post, gear ratio... Assume its the 94 Z24 you are talking about since the .bin is an OBDI. Your injector (fuel) cutoff is set at 5946 in the constants table, your 2-3 normal shift point is 83 MPH in the normal shift table. Looks like your speedometer settings are for a 3.23 rear. At WOT the TCC is disabled so the new converter may be slipping a little more than what you previously had. At 5946 in 2nd you would be close to 87 MPH with stock tires. The 83 MPH 2>3 shift is awful close to cutoff (4mph). Plus when the PCM commands the 2>3 shift there is a 1/4-1/2 second mechanical transmission delay AND the rpm will still be increasing possibly beyond 5946 before 3rd engages. With all that and a new converter I would drop the shift MPH tables 5-10% at a time and see how it reacts. If you want to keep the same shift speeds then you would have to raise the fuel cutoff above 6K which gets tricky on a stock block.

 

I am not making a login just to download the file but here are some tips. Forget the 'normal' and 'performance' shift tables they are not in charge of wot shifting. The tables you're after are the kickdown tables. There are mph and rpm tables. Both conditions must be met in order to command a shift. Now since you have a stall rpm no longer corresponds exactly to mph because of slippage which will vary with gear. Also the rate of rpm increase is going to vary with gear, 1st gear being much quicker than third. So what you want to do is set the mph kickdown table kinda low and conservative so that condition will be met early on (its called kickdown up/down shift points). So then you want to set the rpm kickdown table to where you want to shift, the trick is that while the computer commands it instantly the trans is a hyro-mechanical system and takes time. So what you want to do is shift several hundred rpm before you want it to actually do it. Start out trying 5-600 rpm lower than you want the engine to ever go. Datalog it and then see what you ended up with and adjust from there.

Please be aware that sometimes you can get a flare between 2-3 and sometimes that is a signal for a coming failure in the trans. Also if you want your max rpm to be about 6000 I would suggest moving the limiter to 6200 just for the extra room to avoid hitting the limiter and killing a run since its kind of hard to recover from it.

 

yea it has the 3.23 gears with 275/40/18 tires. The tranny is a Performabuild stage 2 pro race with the 2500 stall. I did finally get the shifting down so it will shift right before the limiter. I had a tuner from NJ do the mail order tune. But I did get it to shift fine but then it wouldn't down shift from 2nd to 1st. I then noticed that on the normal mode up down shift points he had the 2-1 down shift set to 0 from 93.8 to 100% on the TPS. After I changed that to something in the 28mph range it works fine. I'm learning so that's the most important thing, haha

 

Thanks WS6 for straightening out my brain fart. it's been so long since I set up my WOT gearing I forgot completely about the Kickdown Mode Up/Down Shift Points table. Looked at mvvette97's and the 2>3 shift is set for 93MPH that's over 6K for the gearing. My 2>3shift is @ 73 MPH with 3.42's and 25 inch diameter tires, he should drop it down into the high 70's depending in tire size. Lots of speed /gear ratio calculators out there that can help get the correct settings for your setup.