I have a 95 Formula w/ PP Heads, CC306, Shorty Headers, B&B Triflow and all other bolt ons, and stock injectors. My car is puffing raw gas from the exhaust and I cant figure out why. Here are the scanmaster readings.

MAF 7 pgs
Sp 28
LP 2.3
RP 1.6
LBL 160
RBL 128
CEL 16
LIN 165
RIN 128
O2L 600-850
O2R 300-600

Thanks,
Chad

 

is that cell 16?

what do the RBL and LBL look like say in cells 06 and 10?

also what does your IAC read in cell 16(idle)?

 

The iac reads 40-41 in cell 16

in cell 06 and 10 the lbl/rbl are close to each other at 118/128

I also got a code 44 bank 1 o2 lean. I swapped the o2's now both sides are showing 160bl's. I think the left header has a crack in it and is sucking air and the right one is a bad 02 sensor.

 

Looks like its at idle. Its pouring max fuel into the left side... something it pretty screwed up. Then the short terms are trying to correct, and the left side is skyrocketing. As noted, drive it and get BLM's for more Cells..... then you will know the magnitude of the problem.

Is the idle higher than normal? 28deg advance looks excessive... usually 18-20deg at idle.

Have you read this?

ScanMaster Writeup

 

yeah get those O2 sensors replaced. sounds like you have an issue on the left bank that ruined that O2 sensor. a header crack will do it but then so will cam reversion and a leaky throttle body.

do both O2 sensor fluctuate from 0-900 mV? if you see one stick in in an area for more than 10 sec. or only fluctuate between for instance 200-500 mV then it needs replaced.

 

I thought 160 was lean?? Anyway in all the other cells they seem pretty close any where from 112-134. Then once the clutch goes in they go to 160. The idle is normal 900-950.

What is cam reversion?

What can I clean the TB with that will not affect the tps and iac sensors? Or should I take them off the tb and clean it that way?

Chad

 

160 is lean. but it is more likely a false lean which causing the car to run rich.. its all backwards thinking. the computer sees a lean condition created by the cam which really isnt there so it dumps in fuel to compensate.

but first and foremost you need to replace the O2 sensors.


read this about split BLMs.. it explains reversion and solution very well.

 

My IAC when I started her up after new O2's went in was 159, then it dropped to about 72 as the car got warmer...

I know at idle it should be around 20-40, I guess mine is dirty..
also I do have an airfoil installed on the 58mm Tb so that may be a reason as well.

 

Thanks for the help guys I am going to take the TB off again and clean it and do the mod mentioned above. I am going to get a new o2 sensor today and replace the bad one.

Chad

 

Most of the 58mm TBs require a fix to get the IAC counts to anything decent, moreover most of them do not need an airfoil, but what brand are you running? I ran the BBK, and used a 1/2" copper pipe cut appropriately to fix the IAC leak that they so stupidly engineered claiming that it actually helps IAC. My car would not idle without fixing this, and the IAC was maxed out, without giving it gas it was a no go. I also created an IAC bypass which the BBK does not have, I believe I used a 13/64" bit but dont recall for sure, might have been 11/64"? Look at the stock TB size and go a little bigger for starters, but not much.

 

Do you have any pics of the IAC bypass that you are talking about? I am at work now and I am trying to get a plan together of what I need to try to get this thing running right at idle.

Chad

 

DR Mudge,

I also have the BBK TB...

 

Dr. Mudge
My 52mm tb looked exactly like the 58 so I hope that means that the pipe and o ring trick works. I havent tried it yet I pulled it all back out and cleaned it.
Also I replaced the o2.
I am going to go see what it does now.

Chad

 

My BBK idles perfectly.. could it be because of the SC??