Freescan Help
Freescan Help
I just got my cable and a laptop, I have freescan on it and I've played around with it a bit........I would like to post a screenshot on here for you guys to look at.......What would be the best to show, should I be at WOT and what RPM is best........I may download TTS datamaster later and give the free trials a try, it looks a little better
A screen shot is not very useful. The whole idea of the software is to run a continuous data log, that you can look at to try and track down dynamic problems. I've been sent data logs from FreeScan and from DataMaster, and both are usefull for that purpose.... not really a whole lot of difference, other than the DataMaster display screen. But for analyzing the DataMaster scans, I usually export as a .csv, and use Excel to do the analysis.
In the shot you posted, there was nothing unusual. Looked fairly stock, produced by a stock tune. Numbers were a bit fuzzy, but looked like the typical 9xx O2 mV's you get with the stock PE target A/F ratio. No knock retard, etc. In the upper right corner, you have it set to show the 1/0 flags for various functions, but some of the ones selected (windshield heat???) are not the best choices. You need the closed loop flag, PE mode flag, and I think there is one for learning disabled.
I have a lot of learning to go.......I need to get the hang of logging data and then figure out how to get that info to you.
Last edited by deerslayinrenek; Apr 8, 2009 at 10:28 PM. Reason: cause Im an idiot :)
That's the shot I already looked at. When you posted it, I copied the link and went directly to it, so it was a bit larger. I couldn't read the number in the "fuel trim cell" (yellow box) field. Is it 15 or 18? What are the left and right fuel trims, right under the Cell number?
Run the log, and upload the file to an FTP site, or just send it as an e-mail attachment. Problem with sending them to me is that I get so many of them, it can take a long time for me to get around to looking at all of them.
Have you seen this:
http://www.injuneer.com/ScanMast.html
Do you have a specific problem you are chasing, or are you just trying to learn how it all works?
Run the log, and upload the file to an FTP site, or just send it as an e-mail attachment. Problem with sending them to me is that I get so many of them, it can take a long time for me to get around to looking at all of them.
Have you seen this:
http://www.injuneer.com/ScanMast.html
Do you have a specific problem you are chasing, or are you just trying to learn how it all works?
The windshield heat and all that stuff I guess is on there by default, I didn't change any of that(well not on purpose)...No I haven't seen the link, I followed it on an old thread but it just lead me to a dead AOL page........The car doesn't run bad but it has a little studder/skip under about 2400 rpm but it doesn't seem to do it all the time.....last month I changed the plugs in it and put NGK TR55's in it and it got horribly worse. unsure of the problem I changed wires to make sure i didn't pull an end out of one but there was no change.....I put the old AC Delcos back in and and it's pretty much straightened itself back out......when I pulled the TR55's out a took a picture with a camera phone....it looked lean to me
I will run a log and try to get it to ya, how long should I run it for?.........btw thanks for taking the time

I will run a log and try to get it to ya, how long should I run it for?.........btw thanks for taking the time
Last edited by deerslayinrenek; Apr 8, 2009 at 10:29 PM.
Start with a cold engine, let it warm up and go into closed loop. Then drive it a bit, varying the RPM and throttle position as much as possible. Include a full WOT pull in 2nd gear.
Are you sure you had the plugs in all the way? With the odd angles and hidden locations, its not unusual to mistake the socket binding in the head hole as the plug being tight.
Are you sure you had the plugs in all the way? With the odd angles and hidden locations, its not unusual to mistake the socket binding in the head hole as the plug being tight.
I put the new plugs in and it ran poor so I pulled all the plugs back out, re gaped them, and put them back in, They were in all the way.....but there wasnt any change....pulled them out once again and put the original plugs back in and it ran like it did before the plug swap........I've been reading and learning about this datamaster program and the screenshot I showed you was dated 1998...so i think it was a sample log.....I will get a good log and send it to ya.....The one I ran last night had seemed like the injectors were working pretty hard...The Injector duty cycle was 91.1 & 86.2 @5500rpms and the long term fuel trim was 147 &139....Is this ok? .....Again thank you very much for taking the time to help
Last edited by deerslayinrenek; Apr 8, 2009 at 05:16 PM.
Long term fuel corrections of more than 5% (BLM = 135) are indicative of a problem. Long terms that differ by more than a % or 2 from L to R are indicative of a problem. Using 128 as "0%" correction, 147 represents 15% correction, and 139 represents a 8.6% corrrection. Both of those are on the high side, and the fact that they are not close to each other inidcates a problem as well.
Injuneer, I sent you one of my logs via email......that one has a lot spark retard. The odd thing is that I just did a log tonight and I drove it the same way and there wasn't any spark retard......theres a few things I've noticed is that the long term counts never go below 130 and sometimes as high as 149 and the left side is almost always higher............so if you dont mind taking a look I would sure appriciate it and if you'd like another to look at I can send that too...........Thanks......Mike
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