Problem Solved!, But read the end, Tell me if you agree, The world has gone Crazy, and All The True Muscle Car guys have fought against the rice burners at one time, but are we to except that a chevy is still a chevy even though its not the same motor that has been " Like A ROCK" for the last 32 years?

Car has Grantilli MAF NEW, BBK headers with EGR block off plates, Cat removed, Del-TeQ opti-direct, new plugs and wires.

Datamaster readings at idel 800 RPM closed loop
MAP 41.7 Fuel Trim 16,
Lterm counts left 149/ right 160 Sterm counts 134/135
BPW ms 4.47/4.88 O2 mV left goes between 62-839/ the right 98-888 @ idle
MAF afgs 9.14 TPS% 0.o TPv 0.71 SpaRK advance 20 retard 0

Knock count 2500 IAC position 60 NO codes ,

Anyhelp? How do the numbers look, I know the BLM 149/160 is high any thoughts?

Gas fumes are strong, no smoke at idle, no smoke when driving, car runs like crap no power across the band, started out of know where, car ran fine replaced the mounts with poly's took it out punched it my exhaust clamp on the Y came loose and lost power?

 

Your LTerms are pegged on the lean side. Once the PCM hits 160 LTerm, it no longer attempts to correct the fuel mixture.

If the exhaust smells rich it means the PCM is dumping fuel on the engine because it thinks it is too lean, but it really isn't. In most cases this is caused by an exhaust leak, or bad O2 sensor.

 

thanks for the reply, just curious from what I've read a bad O2 sensor will always read around 450 MV, mine goes through the whole range, could it still be an o2 sensor?

I do have an exhaust leak but its after the o2's, its from the Intermediate, would this affect o2's?

Thanks alot

 

I've checked the o2 readings again, the Millivolts highs and lows flip flop back and forth between left and right, just as they should, Pulled plugs and they look carbon fouled, cannot understand why o2's say engine is lean

 

If extra air is getting into the exhaust stream upstream of the O2 sensor, it will skew the readings (e.g. it will read lower mv more often then it should), but it will still oscillate. This could also be caused by an intake leak, although 41 on the MAP seems pretty stable. Intake leaks generally cause it idle erratically, too.

 

Idle isn't really rough 800 RPM with maybe 1.5% VAriance according to data master

Ok, I pulled the intake, installed new Gaskets, New Injectors, New FPR, replaced vacum lines, Ran it out with seafoam and deep creep, and tightened headers.

Still has no power, BLM's both pinned @ 160 getting a little retard now like .5 degree

o2's flip flop between 125&900 now, don't get as low as they did before ie 32.. 35.., Should I changed them just for the hell of it?

Just Curious @ idle when I pull the vacum line off the FPR there is no change in Idle, That's with the old one and the brand new one... Plenty of Vacum on line any ideas? Couldn't Check Line Pressure cause there's a problem with the Needle valve in the test port, must replace

 

I never saw any idle variance when I pulled the vacuum on the FPR on my 1994 Impala SS. Pulling the line would richen the fuel mixture, due to higher fuel pressure, but a couple PSI isn't going to make a huge difference.

 

oh ok great to know, Some other posts I've read on other sites said u would, but its makes more sense that it wouldn't.

After changing things my MAP is down to 41.1 at idle so my vacum is good, I'll replace the o2's, and see what happens

 

Try a stock MAF instead of the Granitelli.

 

Thanks for the reply, Put the orignal MAF back on, AFG's look good on it so I know its working, but the Car still runs the Same (LIKE CRAP!), I'm gonna fiddle around with it now see if I come up with anything..


Thanks

 

Checked fuel pressure at idle 39lbs, when I remove vacum hose, goes up to 48 lbs

 

Ok turns out that is was a defective MSD COIL PACK that was working intermediately, ran to Strauss replaced it all is well.