Thanks, Fred. I see many on Amazon for sale. Anything in particular I should look for or a specific brand? Thanks, Bill

 

If you don't want to spend a lot, get the one I posted earlier (MS310) for about $20. It's cheap and the numbers are small also and a little hard to read but shows all the generic real time OBD2 data, not just codes. I keep one in my car all the time.

 

Thanks Gary. It looks like all I should need. The Autel MS310 I looked at came with a manual and a cd. That should tell me what I need to know.

 

I now have a related problem. I broke the plastic cover the sensor wire clips to. I glued it back on in the way I thought it was supposed to be. However, the engine will not start at all although I am getting spark. Would the temperature sensor wire connection being reversed be enough to make the engine not even fire over, or is this another issue?

 

The 2-wire temp sensor has no polarity... it's just a resistor. Switching the wires would not affect anything at all.

 

Thanks Fred. I am not getting any codes. I am at a complete loss as what to check. Would that diagnostic tool you and Gary have been suggesting be of any help on this?

 

What you need is a data log showing what is happening in the PCM when the engine is missing, compared to when it isn't missing, and showing the transition from no miss to missing. I know how to do that with OBD-1. Since they stopped selling AutoTap I'm not up to date on data logging in OBD-2.

 

Thanks, but now it won't even fire over. The starter turns the engine, but no ignition. I have never had that situation before.

 

Do you have spark when it's cranking ..... at the coil wire? ...at the plugs?

 

I have spark at the plugs. It makes me think it is not getting gas, but I have not ever had any issue like this before with it.

 

Do you have spark at the coil wire (Injuneer)?The coil wire(believe me) is one of the weak links in the system.Also look for corrosion around the coil terminal for the coil wire.Hope this helps.

 

Check the fuel pressure.

How many volts on the dash gauge when the engine is cranking?

 

I have charged and checked the battery. It is nearly new and is fully charged. I got a fuel pressure tester from O'Riley's and it shows absolutely no pressure. The fuel pump fuse is not blown but I need to locate the relay and see if it is getting current. Is there anything I could have accidently disconnected when I was accessing the water temp sensor in the front of the engine?

 

Did you tighten the connection for the pressure tester tight enough to depress the valve core in the Schrader valve? No pressure reading unless the core is depressed.

Can you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds at key on? If not, use the fuel pump prime connector near the PCM to bypass the PCM fuel permit interlock/PASS-Key system and the fuel pump relay. See Shoebox's photo:

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg

Apply 12V to the connector.

Fuel pump relay is under the "dead pedal", far left of the driver's footwell. Again from Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_relay.jpg

 

Thanks Fred. Good to know. I will try your suggestions. I am hard of hearing and do not hear a 2 sec. sound. I had my wife listen, but all she heard was a light continual whirring, but probably a fan.