Edit for new cam...
08-29-2004, 12:00 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pearland,TX, USA
Posts: 160
Re: Edit for new cam...
Originally Posted by tjwong
Send me your LT1 edit file that you downloaded from your PCM and I will send you a base calibration.
08-29-2004, 06:19 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lousiana
Posts: 1,534
Re: Edit for new cam...
Still running rich down low. Try reducing the MAF values by 7% in all values below 30gm/sec. This will subtract fuel in this low rpm range where you blms are showing rich.
You IAC count seems high also. Try using the throttle stop screw to open the blades a tad. This will lower the IAC. It was maxing out 160 at times. This will also get your idle up. It is programed for 900rpm but it is actually about 100rpm below this.
About the spark retard; U first need to find if it's real or not. I think it's possible just from the one record you have when the car is at 0% tps and you are knocking. It may also be your valvetrain(rocker arms loose) though.
I would first listen for loose valvetrain, check if any exhaust banging is going on and if any adjustments then relog.
Then consider looking at your scan and notice the MAP and RPM range you get knock. Plot this out on a graph(Excel). This will show you where you need to reduce timing in your main spark table.
You IAC count seems high also. Try using the throttle stop screw to open the blades a tad. This will lower the IAC. It was maxing out 160 at times. This will also get your idle up. It is programed for 900rpm but it is actually about 100rpm below this.
About the spark retard; U first need to find if it's real or not. I think it's possible just from the one record you have when the car is at 0% tps and you are knocking. It may also be your valvetrain(rocker arms loose) though.
I would first listen for loose valvetrain, check if any exhaust banging is going on and if any adjustments then relog.
Then consider looking at your scan and notice the MAP and RPM range you get knock. Plot this out on a graph(Excel). This will show you where you need to reduce timing in your main spark table.
Last edited by PoorMan; 08-30-2004 at 08:04 AM.
09-04-2004, 10:10 AM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pearland,TX, USA
Posts: 160
Re: Edit for new cam...
Originally Posted by PoorMan
Still running rich down low. Try reducing the MAF values by 7% in all values below 30gm/sec. This will subtract fuel in this low rpm range where you blms are showing rich.
You IAC count seems high also. Try using the throttle stop screw to open the blades a tad. This will lower the IAC. It was maxing out 160 at times. This will also get your idle up. It is programed for 900rpm but it is actually about 100rpm below this.
About the spark retard; U first need to find if it's real or not. I think it's possible just from the one record you have when the car is at 0% tps and you are knocking. It may also be your valvetrain(rocker arms loose) though.
I would first listen for loose valvetrain, check if any exhaust banging is going on and if any adjustments then relog.
Then consider looking at your scan and notice the MAP and RPM range you get knock. Plot this out on a graph(Excel). This will show you where you need to reduce timing in your main spark table.
You IAC count seems high also. Try using the throttle stop screw to open the blades a tad. This will lower the IAC. It was maxing out 160 at times. This will also get your idle up. It is programed for 900rpm but it is actually about 100rpm below this.
About the spark retard; U first need to find if it's real or not. I think it's possible just from the one record you have when the car is at 0% tps and you are knocking. It may also be your valvetrain(rocker arms loose) though.
I would first listen for loose valvetrain, check if any exhaust banging is going on and if any adjustments then relog.
Then consider looking at your scan and notice the MAP and RPM range you get knock. Plot this out on a graph(Excel). This will show you where you need to reduce timing in your main spark table.
Okay, can someone with LT1 Edit explain what he says I need to do, in LT1 terms? I looked and the only MAF adjustment is MAF vs Frequency Calibration, and the adjustments are:
"LT1 Edit Dump of Table -- MAF vs Frequency calibration
Filename = E:\Shared Files\LT1 Edit\Jayme's car\082804.LT1
1488 1616 1744 1872 2000 2128 2256 2384 2512 2640 2768 2896 3024 3152 3280 3408 3536 3664 3792 3920 4048 4176 4304 4432 4560 4688 4816 4944 5072 5200 5328 5456 5584 5712 5840 5968 6096 6224 6352 6480 6608 6736 6864 6992 7120 7248 7376 7504 7632 7760 7888 8016 8144 8272 8400 8528 8656 8784 8912 9040 9168 9296 9424 9552 9680 9808 9936 10064 10192 10320 10448 10576 10704 10832 10960 11088 11216
Flow Gm/sec 2.45 2.88 3.34 3.87 4.45 5.12 5.85 6.64 7.49 8.41 9.40 10.46 11.60 12.82 14.11 15.48 16.98 18.60 20.34 22.22 24.23 26.35 28.60 30.97 33.43 35.99 38.69 41.54 44.52 47.66 50.97 54.42 58.04 61.81 65.77 69.92 74.27 78.82 83.59 88.58 93.80 99.25 104.93 110.88 117.04 123.42 130.03 136.87 143.92 151.14 158.63 166.31 174.03 182.36 191.01 200.07 209.43 219.12 229.15 239.52 250.23 261.30 272.71 284.48 296.61 309.10 321.96 335.20 348.80 362.77 377.14 391.88 407.02 422.55 438.46 454.78 471.51"
SO, do I need to bring all the values in red down 7%?
That sound right?
I think I just need a bin file for the 224/230 cam with stock heads. Nobody has one?
Thanks,
Jayme
09-05-2004, 10:29 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lousiana
Posts: 1,534
Re: Edit for new cam...
That is correct. The limits will be 2.45 to 2.28 and 28.60 to 26.60. Redo all the "red" numbers like that. Reflash, drive around for a day or so and then log a run with some idle and below 25% cruising.
Last edited by PoorMan; 09-05-2004 at 10:33 PM.
09-06-2004, 01:37 AM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pearland,TX, USA
Posts: 160
Re: Edit for new cam...
Originally Posted by PoorMan
That is correct. The limits will be 2.45 to 2.28 and 28.60 to 26.60. Redo all the "red" numbers like that. Reflash, drive around for a day or so and then log a run with some idle and below 25% cruising.
And, I appreciate all your help and patients.
I'll let you know what happens
Thanks,
Jayme
09-06-2004, 06:07 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pearland,TX, USA
Posts: 160
Re: Edit for new cam...
Well I changed those settings. I had to make a calculator in Excel to do all those damn calculations. 
I flashed my computer and took it for a spin. I didn't get ti Idle up the screw on the throttle body because I couldn't see what kind of tool it takes to screw it out. So I took it out anyway. Drove it around for a bit so it could learn the new settings. It seems to be Idling better when I come to a stop, which was my main concern. I would come to a stop and it would almost die out, but now it seems better. I will drive it tomorrow and then log another run. I think the knock is coming from the rockers, there may be one clattering a little. I will try to log that run tomorrow and let you know. Thanks a lot PoorMan.
Jayme
I flashed my computer and took it for a spin. I didn't get ti Idle up the screw on the throttle body because I couldn't see what kind of tool it takes to screw it out. So I took it out anyway. Drove it around for a bit so it could learn the new settings. It seems to be Idling better when I come to a stop, which was my main concern. I would come to a stop and it would almost die out, but now it seems better. I will drive it tomorrow and then log another run. I think the knock is coming from the rockers, there may be one clattering a little. I will try to log that run tomorrow and let you know. Thanks a lot PoorMan.Jayme
09-06-2004, 06:08 PM
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lousiana
Posts: 1,534
Re: Edit for new cam...
About the knock; you need to log several runs and get an idea what the MAP and RPM range is when it is occuring. Then go to the main spark table and take out about 6 degrees in that range and see if the knock goes away. If so; then you may want to go back and slowly add timing back to narrow the specific spot.
If you still see knock after taking 6 degrees take a few more. Still knocking after that; then it's most likely false knock from valvetrain or exhaust.
If you still see knock after taking 6 degrees take a few more. Still knocking after that; then it's most likely false knock from valvetrain or exhaust.
09-08-2004, 01:49 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pearland,TX, USA
Posts: 160
Re: Edit for new cam...
Originally Posted by ZMEFLY
Well I changed those settings. I had to make a calculator in Excel to do all those damn calculations. I flashed my computer and took it for a spin. I didn't get ti Idle up the screw on the throttle body because I couldn't see what kind of tool it takes to screw it out. So I took it out anyway. Drove it around for a bit so it could learn the new settings. It seems to be Idling better when I come to a stop, which was my main concern. I would come to a stop and it would almost die out, but now it seems better. I will drive it tomorrow and then log another run. I think the knock is coming from the rockers, there may be one clattering a little. I will try to log that run tomorrow and let you know. Thanks a lot PoorMan.
Jayme
I flashed my computer and took it for a spin. I didn't get ti Idle up the screw on the throttle body because I couldn't see what kind of tool it takes to screw it out. So I took it out anyway. Drove it around for a bit so it could learn the new settings. It seems to be Idling better when I come to a stop, which was my main concern. I would come to a stop and it would almost die out, but now it seems better. I will drive it tomorrow and then log another run. I think the knock is coming from the rockers, there may be one clattering a little. I will try to log that run tomorrow and let you know. Thanks a lot PoorMan.Jayme
I don't think the tune I have was a good starting place and for someone that does not know a lot about tuning and drives the car daily, I need all the help I can get and in a hurry.
09-08-2004, 07:29 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pearland,TX, USA
Posts: 160
THank you guys!
DarkHorse, You are the man!!! Thank you for sending me your bin file. I NOW have a good starting point to fine tune my car. Before I was struggling with keeping it running at red lights, and NOW, WOW! I can actually see some of the performance the cam added to me car. Thank you sir!
I want to thank you too PoorMan and I'm sure I will need your help fine tuning it. I have a couple of questions but I'll wait till I log a run to ask them.
I will log a run and let you guys know.
Jayme
I want to thank you too PoorMan and I'm sure I will need your help fine tuning it. I have a couple of questions but I'll wait till I log a run to ask them.
I will log a run and let you guys know.
Jayme
09-08-2004, 09:46 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 1,433
Re: Edit for new cam...
Your welcome, glad to be able to give back. But the real heroes of that file are 97z-m6 and bunker.
I have another one that i've been working on that I can send you some other time, I don't have it on this pc. All of my tunes are on my laptop. If you do something drastic and have access to a dyno or make changes at the track let me know how it goes. We have very similar setups so i'm still tweaking mine.
I'll let you know how this new file turns out - more aggressive than the last. I've been lucky enough to have 2 friends, 1 bone stock and the other GM847/AI heads etc..., that had PCMForLess tunes - I've checked those tunes out and taken a little bit from both to make my current tune. No track comparisons of the tune your using and this new one though because I broke my trans mount on the first pass. It's fixed and i'm looking to head out to the track on Friday when it's hopefully not raining.
I'll have a better look at these 2 tunes then.
I have another one that i've been working on that I can send you some other time, I don't have it on this pc. All of my tunes are on my laptop. If you do something drastic and have access to a dyno or make changes at the track let me know how it goes. We have very similar setups so i'm still tweaking mine.
I'll let you know how this new file turns out - more aggressive than the last. I've been lucky enough to have 2 friends, 1 bone stock and the other GM847/AI heads etc..., that had PCMForLess tunes - I've checked those tunes out and taken a little bit from both to make my current tune. No track comparisons of the tune your using and this new one though because I broke my trans mount on the first pass. It's fixed and i'm looking to head out to the track on Friday when it's hopefully not raining.
I'll have a better look at these 2 tunes then.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post