Hi, I've almost completed assembly on my DIY-WB project but am very stuck in one spot where the instructions aren't clear. If you haven't assembled this particular unit, you will have trouble understanding what I'm talking about. Lemme post the link to the pic of the one i'm building and if anyone has built this one Displayed LCD, I REALLY NEED YOUR HELP, as I am VERY confused on one part. That's off the www.diy-wb.com displays page. It comes with instructions on how to build it, but get very vague in one part and possibly contrasting and I have no clue who to contact for help. If any has assembled this unit please give me a shoutout at markolc@attbi.com or reply to this post and I will explain the problem I have in luch more detail! PLEASE help, thank you!

 

I don't think I can be of any help to you. But I am VERY interested to hear how this works out. Are you planning to do some comparisons against a "commercial" sensor. I would be interested in the results.

Keep us informed.

 

Narrow band sensors wont read the same WOT from one to another, so comparisons are fairly worthless, but they have been done if you look for the dyno AF cheat sheet, you can see wideband AF versus narrow band, and there is no way to compare them at all.

 

What I was referring to is comparing this DIY-WB sensor to the one that the dyno uses.

Hook them both up on the same run and see what the readings are. That way it would be known if this unit is reading as accurate as the commercial unit. It would give you a benchmark to go buy.

If I build one that is exactly what I will do with it. If you don't compare it to a "known" you really do not know what you have. Unless of course you have a way to calibrate the DIY unit. Even if I had a way to do that, I would still take it to the dyno and compare it.

 

I gotcha. I would assume the sensor to be just as accurate, but I dont know the cost of the units the dyno guys are using, I've heard of $115-$175 for "cheap" widebands on the open market (for us).

It would also be interesting to note, during the comparison, if the dyno was used in the pipe or in a bung, bung would be "better".

 

Well I have DFI in my IROC, and I have to do tuning basically from scratch. So what I will be doing is using the DIY-WB to get the A/F down to where I want it, then go to the dyno to tweak it using the 3 runs they give me. That way it saves my cheap a$$ from shelling out a lot of money on dyno time, and I will at least have something uselful for future cars or to let the guys in my car club borrow it.

 

I do not know of any of the dynos to be using a "bung" mounted AFR sensor. It would be a real PITA to do for every car. The ones I have seen are put up the tailpipe and "cliped" on so they do not blow out.

Mark -- Keep us posted on your results this product sound real interesting. That and for someone who likes gadgets , I may just have to build one.