Disabling the knock sensor and dialing in timing?
Disabling the knock sensor and dialing in timing?
I always understood that you 'dialed' in timing by bumping it up a couple * until you noticed knock retard. Assuming you know that the knock is false (and have disabled the knock sensor), how do you dial in timing?
Ryan
Ryan
Those that disable the response to knock are not disabling the knock sensor. The knock still shows up in the logs. The PCM still reduces the timing advance by the amount in the retard table even if that value is '0'.
Originally posted by 383Z4ME
Those that disable the response to knock are not disabling the knock sensor. The knock still shows up in the logs. The PCM still reduces the timing advance by the amount in the retard table even if that value is '0'.
Those that disable the response to knock are not disabling the knock sensor. The knock still shows up in the logs. The PCM still reduces the timing advance by the amount in the retard table even if that value is '0'.
Also, some just ground the sensor (resistor) so the sensor is basically deactivated.
Ryan
Just FYI, just because an engine can tolerate more timing doesn't mean it will make more power with it.
The only reason I would think you'd want to disable the knock sensor would be is if you have an incurable false knock, and I'd suggest you find a way to fix it.
The only reason I would think you'd want to disable the knock sensor would be is if you have an incurable false knock, and I'd suggest you find a way to fix it.
Originally posted by Dan K
Just FYI, just because an engine can tolerate more timing doesn't mean it will make more power with it.
Just FYI, just because an engine can tolerate more timing doesn't mean it will make more power with it.
Originally posted by Dan K
The only reason I would think you'd want to disable the knock sensor would be is if you have an incurable false knock, and I'd suggest you find a way to fix it.
The only reason I would think you'd want to disable the knock sensor would be is if you have an incurable false knock, and I'd suggest you find a way to fix it.
If I could cure it I would be popular
.Ryan
Checking timing
If your gonna do it that way then you had better learn how to read a spark plug. Get yourself one of those fancy moroso spark plug magnifier's and a fresh set of plugs. Then go to the track install your new plugs (its best to read a brand new plug that has minimal time on it rather than try and read somthin you have idled around the pits on)Go directly to the line make your pass and as you go through the traps kill the ignition (careful not to lock the steering) pull of the return road and start checkin plugs. I use a piece of styrofoam to hold my plugs in order as i pull them out. Ya you need to pull them all. Just spot checkin could get you in trouble if ya have a cylinder goin lean. When you find which one runs the leanest then you can keep a closer eye on htat one but its still safer to check all of'em. If ya see purple specs or aluminum (shiny spots) then back up 1-2* Creep up on it dont jump to big #'s or youll pay the speed shop guy for new pistons.
Nitrous books have good info on plug reading also talk to circle track guys they are pretty helpful when your not racin with them.
Good luck.
Nitrous books have good info on plug reading also talk to circle track guys they are pretty helpful when your not racin with them.
Good luck.
Timing ??
Oh ya and the best way to figure when your moter has had enuff ** Watch you MPH on time slip. It will slow down when she's got to much timing in er. And if you hear the dreaded (death rattle) for gods sake get out of it.
Originally posted by 96-speed
I am asking how you guys find that point? Is there a safe/accurate way to do it?
I am asking how you guys find that point? Is there a safe/accurate way to do it?
Timing
Sure consistency helps but not critical. You need to pay careful attention to MPH. MPH = HP ET = traction/gearing combo/trans ect... You need to make your runs consitantly IE: same engine temp, stage same place. See we po folks cant afford to pay the 250+ dollars to flog the car on a chassie dyno. Plus its more fun at the track anyway.
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