Well I put my car back together new motor/tranny and this thing is stutter and poping outta the exhaust.
I have a small cam with a pcmforless tune and it idels fine and revs fine till you put a load on it. I made a datamaster of me driving around to see what you all think. Seems like its leaning out at WOT according to my wideband. Looks like the right 02 sensor is dead as well. I don't know how to read sensors to well so Let me know what looks funny

Here is the file its the only hosting I could find

http://www.savefile.com/files/454725

 

Well, your right O2 is definitely not switching which is why your long terms are pegged at 160 on the right bank. Notice that your injector PW is much higher on that bank since the ECM is noticing the lean conditiona and dumping fuel to compensate. Raw fuel igniting in the exhaust is the most likely source of the popping. Verify that the sensor doesn't have an open circuit and is a good part. If it is, you're running **** lean on that bank and need to correct it. If the sensor checks out, I would check for a vacuum leak before anything else.

You're aware that you have 4 DTCs right?

 

Yes I saw the DTC the MAF is hooked up and is a granetelli unit. The map being high? Would that be because of the cam? What is ESC failure

 

Spark control. Could be happening for a number of reasons. I would investigate a possible vacuum leak on the right side first. Its one of the only reasonable explanations as to why on bank would be so dramatically different as the other from a fuel control standpoint.

 

What a mess! It hard to believe the engine is running as well as it appears to. Its got to run like absolute dog crap. DO NOT RUN THIS ENGINE UNTIL YOU FIX THE PROBLEMS. There's a good chance you may be doing serious damage. You've got to understand at least that with constant, huge knock retard values, there has got to be something radically wrong. With O2 sensors reading less than 100mV most of the time, there has to be something wrong. This is sort of basic knowledge. You shouldn't need anyone to tell you this.

The 4 codes are:

DTC 15: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit (signal voltage high, low temperature indicated)

This may be a stored code. The part of the data log that I looked at show coolant temps in the 180+ degree range.

DTC 43: Knock Sensor (KS) circuit

Your knock sensor is either discinnected or toasted. As a result you have CONSTANT, MASSIVE knock retard at all times. You have to fix this or its going to run like crap.

DTC 48: Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor circuit

May be another stored code. The numbers look OK, with 300+ grams/sec at max RPM.

DTC 77: Cooling fan relay control circuit

Can't tell if this is active or stored code. You need to check out the fan operation under various operating condition.

RESET the PCM (pull the PCM BAT fuse for 30 seconds) to clear the codes. See what ones come back.

Right O2 sensor appears to be totally screwed up, producing signals as low as 4 mV at WOT. This is totally screwing up the right bank of the engine. The long terms (BLM's) are max'd out at 160 and the short terms (INT's) are maxed out at 203 most of the time. There are two possible things happening:

1. Its really running lean and you are going to destroy pistons with detonation. Not likely, because with the unbelievably low right side O2 levels at WOT, if this was a "real" lean condition, you would already have toasted the pistons or burned a hole in the head.

2. It a "false" lean condition caused by a screwed up O2 sensor, or a wiring fault. If this is the case, its POURING UNNEEDED FUEL INTO THE ENGINE. You are most likely fouling the plugs, washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls, and diluting the oil to the point where you are going to start destroying the rings.

The BLM's are totally split in some cells, showing 108 on the left bank, and 160 on the right bank. Yet at WOT, its also running on the rich side on the left bank..... 950+ mV. In closed loop, your right injector pulse widht is almost 3 TIMES as long as your left side.

There's probably more problems in there, but you need to solve the above items immediately before you destroy the engine.

 

Thanks for the info I will not drive the car until I get the car fixxed. The knock sensor is new and I don't know whats up with it I will have to test it out to see if its the wiring or if the sensor is faulty its a autozone sensor so that could be it. I will have to check all the wiring for the 02 sensors as well. I pulled the plugs on the car and the pass side plugs were black, and the drivers side were good. Ill keep you guys updated on what I find out with each sensor.

 

You've gotten some pretty good advice. Go check it out and get back to us. Good luck.

 

I see you have a 96. Have you converted to OBDI? I'm guessing there's a compatability problem between your PCM and knock sensor--whichever sensor you have you likely need the other one.

 

Yes I have converted to a ODB1 PCM from pcmforless. I never thought that may be whats messing with the knock. Does that sound right that I need a odb1 knock sensor?

 

Ask them if they convereted the PCM to work with the 96+ KS. If so, make sure that's what you have (10456287). If not, replace your KS with the older one (10456126).

 

Okay checked the knock sensor wiring out tonight with a multi meter. The plug with the key on had 2.26V and from what I read it needs to be 5 V. I need to get back over there and get the pcm wire tested.

 

You want 5.0V measured between the harness wire and the engine block with the harness unplugged. When the harness is still plugged in, you want to see 1.5-3.5V between the wire and the block. For OBD-I your knock sensor should measure in the range of 3,500 - 5,500 ohm. If you have an OBD-II KS, it will read 100,000 ohms (and hence, not work with your OBD-I PCM, unless the PCM was modified).

 

Just contacted Bryan at pcmforless and he told me that the wire to the KS will only have 2.27v because of the resistor mod that he does to make the odb1 computer compatiable with a odb2 knock sensor. So the knock sensor must be working maybe all the uburnt fuel on the right bank was cause pops in the headers. So now I am going to move onto the 02 sensors and try to get them into specs. Then change the plugs one more time and try to figure some more out.

 

Do you still have DTC 43? If you do, you are still going to have a problem with constant knock retard.

 

I ended up having to disable my ks due to not being able to get rid of the DTC43. Everything checked out, but the PCM still was seeing something wrong with it. You have more than just a faulty ks to deal with though to get the car running correctly.