I have datamaster, freescan, and tuner pro rt on my computer. I would like to stick with freescan for now since I find it easier and I already have it set up and I have used it. But, I don't know how to go about saving the data files so I can share and get the feedback from the forums. Can someone help me out and tell me how I go about saving the file? Thanks.

*** Do I use .txt file or .csv to save them?

 

I also posted the link on my other thread but figured I might as well post here too. If someone can take a look at the file and let me know what my problem areas are and what I should do. Thanks.

http://www.mediafire.com/?u8djpoyvmdgv70f

Here is a second scan:

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?b1ybh9a66ba4kwc

 

Last two were logged while at idle in the garage, this log was taken on a short drive to get symptoms to show and give data.

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?ps587621a4qychd

 

Two things I would fix and then see if it makes any difference on performance and drive ability. 1- your TB closed voltage at 0.8V is to high, adjust idle stop screw and get the voltage down to 0.45 to 0.75 volts, I like 5.5 volts. Then make sure you IAC counts are between 30-40 at idle if not you may have a vacuum leak or you aftermarket TB TBS mounting may have to be physically adjusted. You want to see TB voltage in spec and IAC counts as mentioned otherwise it will not idle correctly and may have hesitation when accelerating. . This should fix your 1100 RPM idle that is running 300 RPM over the 800 programmed in PCM, also stock idle is 650 not sure why you are programmed for 800 w/o a cam. 2 - You voltage at the PCM is 11.3 volts, the battery usually runs around 11v for a few seconds after starting but should go to 13+ as it recovers from cranking. Looks like you have an alternator or voltage regulator problem, but it's all one piece within the alternator. Until you get idle, possible vac leak, and voltage straightened out I would not suggest any tuning changes. Basically you have to start tuning RPM and fueling at idle first, then tune normal driving, and after that performance (WOT) tuning...Good luck you are moving in the right direction...

 

I have fixed the alternator and voltage problem. The best I can do with tps voltage is .75 or so, I backed the idle screw all the way out to see how low the volt would go and that was it. I adjusted the screw back up a little and it stays at .75 or so.

I've looked into slotting the tps mount holes on the TB but am unsure how to do that...just drilling?

Stock idle setting for a manual lt1 is 800rpm, auto is 650rpm for idle. It doesn't just sit at 1100 or so anymore, it fluctuates a lot and likes to sit very high now around 1700 or so. I have "Injuneer" helping me out on the LT1 sub forum here. He too is at a loss of what is going on after looking at a few of my logs.

 

The .75 is OK I ran that for a couple of years w/o any problems on my stock TB. Problem is on aftermarket TB's sometimes the air passing the butterflies at .75 is not the same as the air passing at .75 in a stock TB. The KEY is the IAC counts should be 30-50 range at idle. You need partial idle air through the TB , but more important you want the IAC (PCM) air to be controlling idle speed, not the TB stop screw. Moving the stop screw in and out a little should not change the idle if everything is set up correctly. The reason to get it set up is because, the IAC air passes through ports or passages in the intake different than the TB holes physically up front therefore IAC air gives a smoother idle air distribution to the rear cylinders and helps eliminate any hesitation when opening the throttle.

 

I took it to a gm dealer/shop today. They hooked it up to a few machines and ran some scans and couldn't figure it out either. They checked all hoses and lines, valves and sensors. Sprayed around to find any leaks around the intake and other areas with nothing showing. A problem we ran into was when they removed the brake booster line and sprayed into it for about 30 seconds the engine didn't change at all no stumble and it didn't bother it. So I'm getting air from somewhere else and can't figure that out. Also have a bad miss so looks like cap and rotor or new dist. along with plugs soon too.