Im installing a CC306 in my 355 and im looking for some info on tuning. i dont really want to pay 400bucks for a dyno tune when i have access to tuner cats. has anyone ever tuned their own car for this? any advice would help!

 

I think everyone is in this forum because they tune their own cars.
If have the software, what are you waiting for?
If you buy a mail order tune, why did you buy the software?

 

i dont really want a mail order tune...but it looks like i might have to go that route unless i get some good info on how to tune my own for the 306. i have only played around with tuner cats, i havent done anything major becuase i dont know the program that well...on top of that its not even my program. im borrowing it from a guy in my club. im hoping to learn a little from this thread, so any info is a plus. thanks guys

 

Start searching for what you want to know how to do. Idle? Part throttle? WOT? Are you still setting up the ECM constants and deleting the DTC's for things you've removed from your car (air pump, EGR, etc...)?
There is a wealth of information that has been discussed on this forum, start looking for it.
Don't expect a handout; point yourself in the right direction, show a little ambition, and I'm sure others will help out along the way as you have specific questions.

 

For a larger cam the basic things you need to do are raise the idle to 800-1000 rpm, advance the timing some (low 40s in the idle ranges, also probably around there for part throttle) in the lower ranges, also you may need to change some of the DFCO values, or your gas mileage will suck.

 

alright i will remember all of that, i plan on playing with the program some more so hopefully i get be decent with it when i get the cam in. the only things i have done so far is take some knock out because my cut out was causing retard, up the line pressure slightly, make the fans cut on sooner, and change a few shift points. any info that you guy give me is greatly appreciated! i have been searching all of my forums for help so im sure i will be able to tune the car decently when the time comes. thanks guys!! remember any advice is very helpful!

 

Check out Brent's site, he has a good tune for a CC306. http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/LT1Edit/LT1files.htm
I used it with my ported LT1 heads and it worked great. I have a file or two if you need. Later Clint

 

i have been doing some reserch for this same thing and have found alot of infor on the tuning but still not sure were to start. I guess its the idea of hurting something that is scary. lol

 

Here's what is probably best: Do your research and play around with Tunercat to get familiar with the tables. Go to the dyno and tune the car yourself. It will take some time the first time and it's about $100/hr but it is the best way to do it. Your other self-tuning option is to buy a wideband o2 sensor and tune it yourself on the street if you have safe roads to be doing that on. I have very cheap access for a dyno because I work at a dyno doing LT1 tuning, but if I had to pay the $100/hr to do this, it would be best to buy a wideband and tune it yourself on the street for about a 12.5:1 AFR (this is where mine made best power). Some do better closer to 13:1 but these LT1's seem to like more fuel better than the LS1s do.

 

I was the same way until I got to play with my own car on the dyno with a wideband.
I have not seen significant gains by adjusting from the stock timing tables at WOT unless the cams are like cc306 and bigger.
The main thing is the 2 WOT tables and the MAF tables. Honestly, don't even mess with them unless you are using a wideband. Doing so is like trying to get through a maze with your eyes closed. You can not tune off the stock o2 sensor values because EGT's effect the values too much.
No one really helped me to understand what REALLY does what so I don't mind helping the do-it-yourselfer since I was in your shoes too.

The only exception to tuning without a wideband is for idle and cruising conditions when you can use the Long term fuel corrections as a guide.

 

thanks for all your guys input, i guss i might just sent it off and hslf it tune for half that price, think i will play with it for a little bit, to see if i can figure it out. then shipp it out if i cant. and i dont have access to a dyno tuner in my area so that is out of the question.

 

If you are going to tune yourself, I would suggest learning what all of the words and values mean. Read the ECM Constants sticky in this forum: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159266

Also, Injuneer has a great write up here: http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm

I started out in your shoes. I spent weeks and weeks reading posts in this forum before I truly understood what I could adjust and how to do it.

I think that a wideband (if you don't have easy dyno access) and a datalogging program (Freescan, Datamaster, etc.) are musts.

A mail order tune is not guaranteed to be right on. It will be close for such a common cam, but there will be some power that can be tweaked out of it using the above mentioned tools.

 

Mail order tunes can be great, as I know many people who this has worked for, but in my case, the first tune was about 11.7:1 AFR and the second one was 13.8:1. It's nothing against the tuners themselves, it is just that not every car is the same so its not as reliable and accurate to do a mail order tune.

 

i do have the datamaster program, and have been looking at he posts mentioned, i have a few bin files to start at they are just lt4 cams, i know that they will it will not be right but it will be a start. if any of ya want to get me a copy of thers with the cc306 to gve me a better starting point that would be cool. thanks guy i am sure once i get the cam installed i will be bending your all ears

 

T/A lt1 up on post #7 gave you Brent's website. When I was starting out, I pulled all of those tunes off of there, just to have them and compare. He stated that the CC306 tune is pretty good, so download it, and try it out.