yah here too i got 15* knock retard max sometimes less depends on rpm but I dunno what is casuing my problem either. Go easy on the throttle nothing happens. Mash the pedal or give it a quick snap and it just wants to die boggs stumbles whatever you call it, and the advance drops to zero and the retard goes to 15* . Now when it does this I dont here the motor making marble sounds or knocking. happens even in open loop too, just a few degress less retard but still reaches 9*

headers, no cat just straight pipe, magnaflow muffler, no egr.


So any help would be great too

 

Curious bubba, when you push the gas (not all the way, but a normal acceleration), does it feel like you're car is in a high gear like 4th when it should be in 2nd? I mean, the car is in the right gear, it just feels like it's not.

 

you know I have never thought of that or ever looked at that. It seems to be slower if I take off from the line rather than going from 30 and stomping on it seems alot faster. But that could have nothing to do with things i dunno

 

Is the exhaust hitting the frame or anything? Is it possible your knock module could be malfunctioning?

 

My knock is fixed. Thanks to everyone who replied. Turns out it was the LT4 KM as SABLT194 suggested. Swapped it back to stock, and I have 0 knock.

 

Can the knock modules get fried? I had it properly pulling timing(knock), then when I uploaded a new tune it stopped in the upload with a communication error. I put another upload on it and the car runs great. I now get 15 degrees timing retard all the time(I know it's not real knock). I'm not sure if the wiring to the sensor has a bad connection and it was just a coincident that I had the upload fail the first time, or if the knock module did get fried.

 

There are codes for a faulty knock sensor (or faulty knock sensor wiring) and for a faulty or missing knock module. Do you have any codes?

 

checked again since I couldn't remember what code I had and it was code 43

Would you lean to wiring/sensor/module being the problem? The wiring isn't on the cross over pipe at all, but we did extend it when I did my wire tuck mod, but that was before when I had my nitrous setup and it ran fine back then.

 

If you have DTC 43, you will have continuous knock retartd, ranging up to the 15* limit programmed into the stock PCM.

The system is very easy to check:

-Key on, take the harness connector off the knock sensor. Measure the voltage, with the positive on the harness connector pin and the negative on the engine block. Should read 5.0V.

-Harness wire still off, measure the resistance between the single pin on the knock sensor, and the block. Should measure between 3,500-5,500 ohms, with 4,400 ohms being the "correct" value. (These are OBD-I values for the knock sensor, not valid for OBD-II)

-Key on, connect the harness to the knock sensor, and measure the voltage from the single pin on the knock sensor to the block. Should be in the range of 1.5 - 3.5V, with 2.5V the "correct" value. The PCM sets DTC 43 if the voltage on the circuit goes outside those values.

 

Wow, never knew or hear of that, THANKS though Fred, I'll check it!