Arrrggggg!!!!!
Arrrggggg!!!!!
For the last week my car wants to stumble,almost like a misfire.It does it more when it gets to operating temperature.It does it when idling also. The thing is I'm not getting a code or anything in the computer.I even hooked up my scanner to see if anything popped up when crusing,and it didn't. Aybody have any ideas as to what it may be?This is irritating.
Misfires cause it to run rich. You have to find the cause of the misfire. Sensitivity to heat may indicate a problem with the IC Module. Could also be related to a failing O2 sensor - how old are they? Finally, is there any possibility that you have a major exhaust leak before the O2 sensors?
Misfires cause it to run rich. You have to find the cause of the misfire. Sensitivity to heat may indicate a problem with the IC Module. Could also be related to a failing O2 sensor - how old are they? Finally, is there any possibility that you have a major exhaust leak before the O2 sensors?
Last edited by Red97LT1; Aug 20, 2008 at 10:22 PM.
The IC Module is mounted on a bracket on the front of the driver's side head, along with the coil.
http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg
Spend some time on Shoebox's site - he also has a method for spacing the IC Module bracket off the head, to reduce heat soak.
http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg
If you've got a "stumble", it would indicate an irregularity in the crankshaft rotational speed. Whether you call it a stumble or a misfire, that irregularity should be picked up by the CKP sensor and cause the SES light to flash.
http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg
Spend some time on Shoebox's site - he also has a method for spacing the IC Module bracket off the head, to reduce heat soak.
http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg
If you've got a "stumble", it would indicate an irregularity in the crankshaft rotational speed. Whether you call it a stumble or a misfire, that irregularity should be picked up by the CKP sensor and cause the SES light to flash.
You can get pretty far by unplugging sensors which forces the PCM into modes it doesnt normally run in (limp home mode or Speed Density, etc)
Start by unplugging the MAF sensor.. this does two things.. 1 - forces Speed Density mode and I hear it makes the Opti run in low resolution mode which may help if your having opti problems.. so if it runs perfect it could either be the MAF or the Opti
If it still runs like crappo unplug the 02 sensors.. then you'l be running only on the MAP sensor.. see how it runs.. if it runs good then plug the MAF back in and see if it changes.
This is the quickest easiest way I know of narrowing down what's good or bad. (if whatever you unplugged doesnt change anything then you can temporarily move on to the next bad part/sensor.. maybe swap with a friends or just buy a new one if it's cheap enough (such as the ignition module).
Also - misfire's only can be detected on 1996 and newer and ONLY if they are FULL missfire's that occur long enough for the algorithm to pick it up. U can have a partial missfire that is just above the threshold to set a code (my 2005 Dodge ram had a weak cylinder that at idle would feel almost like a missfire.. ended up being a weak power stroke so it was ok, not a full missfire - then it got stolen - Lesson here --> DONT BUY/LEASE DODGE)) or you can have an occasional full misfire that doesnt happen long enough to set a code - I have a saturn with a bum injector wire and it usually takes ~5-10 seconds of full complete missfire for the SES to light.. if it fixes itself in time then no SES light, OR if it's just a partial misfire then it usually wont set a SES light.
Start by unplugging the MAF sensor.. this does two things.. 1 - forces Speed Density mode and I hear it makes the Opti run in low resolution mode which may help if your having opti problems.. so if it runs perfect it could either be the MAF or the Opti
If it still runs like crappo unplug the 02 sensors.. then you'l be running only on the MAP sensor.. see how it runs.. if it runs good then plug the MAF back in and see if it changes.
This is the quickest easiest way I know of narrowing down what's good or bad. (if whatever you unplugged doesnt change anything then you can temporarily move on to the next bad part/sensor.. maybe swap with a friends or just buy a new one if it's cheap enough (such as the ignition module).
Also - misfire's only can be detected on 1996 and newer and ONLY if they are FULL missfire's that occur long enough for the algorithm to pick it up. U can have a partial missfire that is just above the threshold to set a code (my 2005 Dodge ram had a weak cylinder that at idle would feel almost like a missfire.. ended up being a weak power stroke so it was ok, not a full missfire - then it got stolen - Lesson here --> DONT BUY/LEASE DODGE)) or you can have an occasional full misfire that doesnt happen long enough to set a code - I have a saturn with a bum injector wire and it usually takes ~5-10 seconds of full complete missfire for the SES to light.. if it fixes itself in time then no SES light, OR if it's just a partial misfire then it usually wont set a SES light.
Last edited by dookie454; Aug 20, 2008 at 11:00 PM.
You can get pretty far by unplugging sensors which forces the PCM into modes it doesnt normally run in (limp home mode or Speed Density, etc)
Start by unplugging the MAF sensor.. this does two things.. 1 - forces Speed Density mode and I hear it makes the Opti run in low resolution mode which may help if your having opti problems.. so if it runs perfect it could either be the MAF or the Opti
If it still runs like crappo unplug the 02 sensors.. then you'l be running only on the MAP sensor.. see how it runs.. if it runs good then plug the MAF back in and see if it changes.
This is the quickest easiest way I know of narrowing down what's good or bad. (if whatever you unplugged doesnt change anything then you can temporarily move on to the next bad part/sensor.. maybe swap with a friends or just buy a new one if it's cheap enough (such as the ignition module).
Also - misfire's only can be detected on 1996 and newer and ONLY if they are FULL missfire's that occur long enough for the algorithm to pick it up. U can have a partial missfire that is just above the threshold to set a code (my 2005 Dodge ram had a weak cylinder that at idle would feel almost like a missfire.. ended up being a weak power stroke so it was ok, not a full missfire - then it got stolen - Lesson here --> DONT BUY/LEASE DODGE)) or you can have an occasional full misfire that doesnt happen long enough to set a code - I have a saturn with a bum injector wire and it usually takes ~5-10 seconds of full complete missfire for the SES to light.. if it fixes itself in time then no SES light, OR if it's just a partial misfire then it usually wont set a SES light.
Start by unplugging the MAF sensor.. this does two things.. 1 - forces Speed Density mode and I hear it makes the Opti run in low resolution mode which may help if your having opti problems.. so if it runs perfect it could either be the MAF or the Opti
If it still runs like crappo unplug the 02 sensors.. then you'l be running only on the MAP sensor.. see how it runs.. if it runs good then plug the MAF back in and see if it changes.
This is the quickest easiest way I know of narrowing down what's good or bad. (if whatever you unplugged doesnt change anything then you can temporarily move on to the next bad part/sensor.. maybe swap with a friends or just buy a new one if it's cheap enough (such as the ignition module).
Also - misfire's only can be detected on 1996 and newer and ONLY if they are FULL missfire's that occur long enough for the algorithm to pick it up. U can have a partial missfire that is just above the threshold to set a code (my 2005 Dodge ram had a weak cylinder that at idle would feel almost like a missfire.. ended up being a weak power stroke so it was ok, not a full missfire - then it got stolen - Lesson here --> DONT BUY/LEASE DODGE)) or you can have an occasional full misfire that doesnt happen long enough to set a code - I have a saturn with a bum injector wire and it usually takes ~5-10 seconds of full complete missfire for the SES to light.. if it fixes itself in time then no SES light, OR if it's just a partial misfire then it usually wont set a SES light.
Absolutely......try cutting a big *** hole in your chest and running a marathon....
Yeah, I've had a similar issue with my older 95. Found the bellows on the bottom was folded under and FUBAR from me not reinstalling it correctly.
Duct tape works...for a little while.
Keep an eye on it. You don't want that crap getting into your intake.
Good luck,
Ivan
Check the part source listed on Shoebox's website. You want the "1LE" version of the intake elbow, without the long dongle silencer tube that makes it difficult to remove and install. Shoebox also has the part # on his site:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html


