Yea,playing w/ the mixture should help...but dont be surprised if it doesnt stop it.

Im guessing the cooling system issue is resolved as well?

 

update: beat my buddy in his '06 grand prix GT (supercharged). He ran a 14.1 a few weeks ago at the track. I think its safe to say that I have a 13 sec car on my hands.

The coolant smell I was getting was fixed by changing my radiator cap. However, I have started to get hot lately, the guage is almost hitting 260* occasionally. ~160-260 cannot be healthy.

 

When is it running 260, all the time or at idle only? Could be the size of the radiator or not enough fan or lack of a shroud. Don't let it get to hot. It wouldn't hurt to take it all apart just to see what's, what and look for trouble. What do you want to do with the car?

 

It just started happening yesterday, but the weather has been hot and I've been driving it more. It only does it at low speed such as stop light traffic and a little around town. It was maybe 85 yesterday.

Its got an electric fan with a shroud. the switch comes on around 190 i think.

Its primarily a cruising car.

 

I was reading your post and just wanted to ask what did you endup with on timing? most performace cams like a little more timing than stock. My 383 with a comp extreme energy cam likes 16 deg .Than 38 total and it all in at 3000 rpm. hope that helps . But not all engines like the same thing so you will need play with .By looking at your build sheet it a stroker and it been balanced.

 

Is this an LT1 motor?

i ask because in the invoice it say rear main seal adapter gasket.....


Sounds like the radiator may be clogged up.. would be a good idea to pull it and take it to the shop.

I'ver had the best luck for a dual purpose street strip cruser using the heavy duty clutch fan and shroud...

Are you running a tranny cooler and or a tranny temp gauge...if not could be the tranny is heating up from the stall converter...

G

 

Ok, going by the factory guage, the temp moves between 100 and 220 (no numbers, just a guess). Most of the time it sits right above 100. Only when i'm moving slowly does it creep up.

I drove the car all weekend and the only time I had trouble was creeping around saturday when it was in the high 70s. It got up near the 220 mark and I just turned on the heat full blast and it never went any higher. I'm gonna try plugging and removing my AC condenser so that the radiator gets more flow.

Its got vortec heads, performer mani, and carb, so I don't see any way it could be an LT1 motor. I've been told the block is 86 or newer and that would explain the adapter gasket right?

Oh another thing, would this combo top out around 100 with a th350, 3.73s, and 5500 rpm? I've also got 27" tall tires.

This thing really suprised me this weekend, I was able to put one car length on an Evo 0-60.

 

Sounds like the fan isnt moving enough air to cool it down.

If it keeps up,go to a junkyard and pick up another E-fan. One from a FWD car or some LS1 fans would be nice,thats what im using on my car. I took the whole assembly right outta the car w/ shroud and stuck it in m car w/ almost zero problems...fits great.

 

How did you make out on your project? When checking your heating/cooling problems there are a couple of things that you can look for. If there is a pin leak in the head gasket you can be slowly burning coolant which will drain the radiator down and create air pockets in the coolant flow which will decrease the coolant systems effectiveness and cause sporadic readings on the gauge. Eventually you will consume enough radiator fluid that you will notice the drop when checking the radiator. If you have that situation then when you run the heat it would tend to blow colder air than normal as the heater core will get air pockets also. If the coolant stayed level in your radiator and changing the cap helped to balance the situation then it could be that the old cap was weak and did not pressurize the system correctly and then the other question would be, how long has it been since the engine was rebuilt? If it is a fresh rebuild then everything is nice and tight and the cylinder walls are probably a tad thinner due to boring the cylinders this would make the engine run a little hotter than stock and you may need a larger radiator to support the new set up. Definately don't let your machine overheat alot if it is a new rebuild, you don't want to warp parts and blow gaskets when you just got everything set up nice. The puff of smoke when jumping on it and the engine run on after shut off could be just the result of a rich fuel mixture or a dirty carb. Cleaning the carb, checking the settings and adjusting the idle mixture etc has a good possibility of correcting this. If it is running rich and you have a high compression engine then that would definately work towards engine run on. Putting some octane boost like 108 can't hurt. If you are bumped up any higher than 10.5/1 than you should seriously think about adding some octane boost as high test pump gas nowadays isn't that great for 11/1 and up. Higher compression engine can be known to have a little blow by on hard acceleration, but I tend to guess that it has more to do with your carb set up. It sounds like you have a good powerplant and a nice car, congradulations on your new Camaro

 

heres what I get

1....clearance block to clear 3.75 stroke
2....clearance pistons to clear stroker crank
3&4, 2 pieces or mallory metal, to internally balance an externally balanced crank(383/400 is external without mallory)
5....its a 2 piece rear main crank in a 1 piece rear main block

 

Thank you all for the support. The car is now parked at my parent's house so I don't get to play with it as much. I can't wait to drive it again. I'm currently saving for the new exhaust, and then I'm going to have someone who knows what they're doing tune the carb.

It makes wikked power in the cold, I had it out for a drive thursday night when it was around 50* out. From a standing stop I never once had traction in first gear, I had to let out of it because it started going sideways at ~30 mph. I've got 235s on the front and 225s on the rear, so its kinda silly right now.

 

LMAO,some power and small tires = way too much fun !

I put some old 235 radial T/A's on the back of my car once....I say once b/c thats all the time they lasted. I did a big burnout to celebrate getting the car on the road (of course) about a year ago and the marks are STILL THERE. I did them on my road and it is by no means not busy lol.

Your welcome for the help,btw.

 

So the latest issue seems to be oil consumption. In the course of about 300 hard miles, I went through 2 - 2.5 quarts of oil.

One valve cover has an "open" pcv valve like this: http://static.summitracing.com/globa...34112erl_w.jpg

The other valve cover has the vacuum line kind: http://static.summitracing.com/globa...spe-4298_w.jpg

I put in some heavier oil, 20W-50. But it seems to be stinking of oil when I let off at high RPM.

Is there anything I can do about this?

 

Is the PVC valve hooked up to a vacum source? If not it should be... You need negative crankcase pressure to keep the oil from finding its way out. Replace the other cover cap with a solid cap or put an evac setup on it. Could also be the valve seals. I would do a compression test on it to make sure everything is ok. Other alternative would be rings but I would doubt that on a fresh motor but ya never kno!

 

Cooling problem turns out to be a coolant leak somewhere. I can't keep coolant in this radiator :-(

Other than that, the car is coming along quite nicely. I've doublechecked my timing and set it to 32* advanced. I set the correct float level on my edelbrock carb and removed the stupid choke. I believe the car is actually running lean now, but its so much smoother. I'm gonna bump my fuel pressure up to ~5 psi and see how it runs before I do anything else.