wish me luck
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 112
From: Racine, WI
Edelbrock Performer 750 w/ electric choke. #1411.
According to edelbrock, its tuned for economy and not to be used with performer rpm air-gap manifolds. Is this going to cause problems?
According to edelbrock, its tuned for economy and not to be used with performer rpm air-gap manifolds. Is this going to cause problems?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,601
From: Virginia
Ive never heard about that,but if Edelbrock says its not good than it could be.
Is this your daily driver? If not and gas mileage isnt a concern,I would get a 650 Holley double pumper. A used one is fine to pick up,and changing jets and stuff in those things is easy.
Is this your daily driver? If not and gas mileage isnt a concern,I would get a 650 Holley double pumper. A used one is fine to pick up,and changing jets and stuff in those things is easy.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 112
From: Racine, WI
Well I'm not sure if its a 305, 350, or 383. I was told 383, but the car originally came with a 305. In the build sheet there was nothing about the type of crank or pistons used. So I get to figure out what I'm working with.
I'm gonna try to find the VIN on the block tonight after work. I'm hoping there is something stamped on the left/front part of the block under the head.
I'm gonna try to find the VIN on the block tonight after work. I'm hoping there is something stamped on the left/front part of the block under the head.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,601
From: Virginia
Nothing on the block will tell you what the engine size is except the # on the back of the block behind the driver side head...its the casting #. Very hard to see in some cars,but in a 2nd gen you might be able to see it...I can on mine anyway...I can take out the bellhousing bolts out from the top! lol
If the paperwork that you have says nothing about clearancing the block for the rod bolts b/c of the stroker crank,than you might not have a 383. But who knows,hopefully it is.
If the paperwork that you have says nothing about clearancing the block for the rod bolts b/c of the stroker crank,than you might not have a 383. But who knows,hopefully it is.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 112
From: Racine, WI
So I have a question about setting the timing. I understand how to change the base timing. I also understand how to change the springs in the distributor to change when I reach full advance.
Does one set the advance timing, or is that a set number, like 24*. Is it base timing + advance (always 24*) = total timing?
Does one set the advance timing, or is that a set number, like 24*. Is it base timing + advance (always 24*) = total timing?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 112
From: Racine, WI
Nothing on the block will tell you what the engine size is except the # on the back of the block behind the driver side head...its the casting #. Very hard to see in some cars,but in a 2nd gen you might be able to see it...I can on mine anyway...I can take out the bellhousing bolts out from the top! lol
If the paperwork that you have says nothing about clearancing the block for the rod bolts b/c of the stroker crank,than you might not have a 383. But who knows,hopefully it is.
If the paperwork that you have says nothing about clearancing the block for the rod bolts b/c of the stroker crank,than you might not have a 383. But who knows,hopefully it is.
balance rotating assembly 190.00
assemble short block 200.00
clearance block 150.00
clearance crankshaft to pistons 200.00
piston press
deglaze cylinder
degrease block
gap piston rings
PPB 7/8" X 1.200" Heavy metal
PPB 3/4" X 1.200" Heavy metal
rear main seal adaptor gasket
tax
so what do you think based on that? could it be a stroker?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 112
From: Racine, WI
More news. Warmed up the car, shut it off, capped the vacuum line for the distributor and on the carb. Hooked up the timing light. The car wouldn't idle below 1500 rpm. At that RPM the timing is at 49* advanced....
Joy. I gotta get the idle down and pull the base timing into some an acceptable range. Is it going to pick up power when I bring the timing down?
Joy. I gotta get the idle down and pull the base timing into some an acceptable range. Is it going to pick up power when I bring the timing down?
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,601
From: Virginia
Thats it!
As for that sheet,looks like it could be a 383 b/c it does say "clearance block" which would need to be done for the stroker crank.
OMG,49 advanced!!
Yes,get that thing down to about 12 initial (around there,play w/ it some and you can find a sweet spot where it idles good in park AND in gear.) Probably want about 34-36* total,subtract the initial timing when you get it set and you'll know which spring you'll need in the distributor.
As for that sheet,looks like it could be a 383 b/c it does say "clearance block" which would need to be done for the stroker crank.
OMG,49 advanced!!
Yes,get that thing down to about 12 initial (around there,play w/ it some and you can find a sweet spot where it idles good in park AND in gear.) Probably want about 34-36* total,subtract the initial timing when you get it set and you'll know which spring you'll need in the distributor.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 112
From: Racine, WI
I got the timing down to around 8* initial. It runs much much much better. It actually makes some power now. I need to take it back up to 12 I think, it ran a little better there.
It still diesels though and I hate it...What else can I look at to fix that?
It still diesels though and I hate it...What else can I look at to fix that?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,601
From: Virginia
My 3rd gen did it alot too and I hated it.
One thing I used to do was shut it off in gear...that way the trans would drag the motor down and it wouldnt diesel.
Sometimes just letting it idle for a couple seconds straight before you cut it off might help,might not.
Other than that,as long as your running 93 in it...it shouldnt diesel,but sometimes it still will so try the in gear idea if it still does it.
One thing I used to do was shut it off in gear...that way the trans would drag the motor down and it wouldnt diesel.
Sometimes just letting it idle for a couple seconds straight before you cut it off might help,might not.
Other than that,as long as your running 93 in it...it shouldnt diesel,but sometimes it still will so try the in gear idea if it still does it.