Right now I have a 2002 z28 and am selling it to buy my dad's 68 camaro. Here is the plan. Let me know if you see some major flaw in it.

It is a very good looking car, far from show condition, but great for a driver. I want to build up a motor for it that will leave me slightly faster than my current car (12.21 on N20) and then be able to spray whatever shot is needed to put me in the mid to high tens. Basically 11.90's on motor, and 10.80's on spray with a small block. It will be driven almost daily but I will have a 4X4 beater when I can't drive it. Obviously I'm not too worried about gas mileage but would like it if it was decent. Am I asking for too much? Let me know.

I am just starting to plan the 350 and I have not thought of any specific parts so suggestions are appreciated, but here is the start:

4-bolt 350
stong bottom end -any suggestions? All forged or not?
forged pistons ~10.5:1
Heads, cam, intake ?? - I saw a package from holley for 425 hp for $1300, it had heads, cam, intake and timing set. Is something like this a good deal? What kind of heads should I look for? Or should I go with some stock, ported heads?

Transmission - right now it has (what I think is) a Muncie 4-speed w/ a hurst shifter, it works great right now. Should I stay with this or go to an auto? I enjoy the manual but would go auto if that is the best way. My focus is mostly fun on the street with a few trips to the strip.

Rearend - It has a twelve bolt posi rear and I just got 3.73 gears in the mail to put in it tomorrow. So I think that is taken care of.

This is my first engine build up but a good friend of the family has built a lot of high end motors and he said he would help me with all of the work. I think its because he likes to see a 20 year old kid with an interest in muscle not hondas. This should keep my costs down quite a bit. He will have many suggestions about how to do it but I thought I would look around to get a few opinions. Sorry for the long post but any comments, critcisms, or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Dustin Keers

 

The downsides to the '68 basically boils down to rarity. If you blow up that Muncie, you will be in 'shock and awe' when you discover what it will cost you to replace it from a place that specializes in those transmissions. Thats *if* you can find a replacement. If you go 10.80's 'on spray', I am pretty sure you will only do that once or twice with that transmission before you are picking pieces of it off the track.

That 12-bolt is a rare piece as well. I doubt you'll break it if its set up correctly, but on the chance you do grenade it, you will find too that piece will set you back mucho dollars to replace.


Why would you want to sell your 2002? It sounds to me like its working damn fine, and there is no way you'll have as nice a driver with a carbed combo over an advanced EFI setup like the amazing LS1 Camaro.

If it were me, I'd keep that '02, and mod the crap out of it.

 

I love my 2002 but it comes down to money. I can afford my car as it is but, with my car payment I can barely afford to ever mod it. I like to have a project and not just a commuter vehicle like the rest of the people on the road. The LS1 is awsome but you pay a lot to play with it. ~$1000 for good headers, $500+ for a cam, heads are more than I will ever be able to afford and the 4l60e costs a fortune to build right, also at some point a 12 bolt or 9 inch rear is needed and that will set me back another $2000+. If I had my way, I would have a stroked, heads and cam LS1 in the 68 but I don't think that is too likely. I am only 20 and working and paying for college as well as the car.

My Dad's car I can get for basically nothing and then take out a loan to pay for the motor, tranny and whatever else I need. My payment will be lower and it will be paid off sooner.

So you think staying with the four speed is a bad idea? Is there another manual you would suggest or should I just go with a TH350 or 400.

I do see your point about keeping my car, and don't get me wrong I am not complaining about it, I am just ready for something different.

Dustin

 

Forget the auto, I'd swap (but keep) the 4-spd for a Richmond Street 5 speed. (http://www.richmondgear.com ) The rest sounds like a solid plan for now. However, don't expect parts to be that much less than what they would be for an LS1.

 

realiability.....you won't get that with the old car.....

 

If it were me, I'd sell the Muncie and get a stout Hughes, TCI, or B&M auto. As far as top end packages, I'm sure the Holley packages are fine. Brodix also offers several packages, some of which are pretty wild.

If you're going to rebuild the bottom end and you can afford it, I'd say go with forged parts. Also, it shouldn't cost a whole lot more to make that 350 a 383, since you're rebuilding it anyway.

How old is the posi? A new one might be a good idea with the times you want to run. You also may need new axles, you never know. But you can pick up a high performance set for a reasonable price.

How are the car's suspension and brakes?

 

True......you will really hate it when you are CONSTANTLY having to fix little things that you never think about with your 02. Such as gauges, climate controls, door handles, squeaks, wiper motors, suspension, the list goes on and on and on!!! HOWEVER, also, I don't know if a 425HP 68 will run 11's, I guess maybe it would if it was 425 at the rear wheels. If the 68 runs and drievs fine, then do it if you can get it for cheap from your dad. If not, find 3rd or early 4th gen, they are cheap and dependable, fairly at least. There are pro's and con's for each situation.....good luck

BamaZ28

 

Thanks for all of the replys.

The suspension has new springs, shocks, swaybar, and poly bushings so it is fine. It sits and rides great. I will be doing a disc brake swap on the front soon so it will be taken care of.

I have looked at the richmond trannys but I wish they were more like a normal 4 speed with an overdrive 5th gear instead of a 1:1 fifth gear. Those won't save me any gas mileage so I would probably just end up going with one of their 4 speeds.

I know what you mean about always having little things to fix, but at least with this car I will be able to afford them. The car is in pretty good shape. It looks like someone did a great job restoring it about 8-10 years ago. All of the work seems to be top notch so hopefully I won't have too many problems.

I will look into those brodix top end packages and see what they have.

Does anyone else have any thoughts on the kind of horsepower I am going to need to reach my goal. I would at least like to know the approximate weight of the car so I can make a good guess.

Thanks again
Dustin

 

A lot depends on what your car weighs when it's done and what kind of traction you can get. If you're looking for low E.T.s and don't really care about gas mileage, go with a good TH400. Unless you're a top professional, just your average Joe Blow will be faster with an automatic than a manual because they're just plain easier to drive. If you haven't already put any miles on the rear end gears, I'd say take them out, put in some 3.08's and drop in a Richmond 5-speed. The Richmond has a really deep first gear (3.27 I believe) compared to a TH400's 2.6something, so you'll end up with about the same overall drive ratio, plus you'll get better gas mileage and it will be more fun to drive on the highway. A constant 3000 rpm song reverburating through the car gets old quick. But like I said, if you're really worried about low E.T's, go with the auto.

If you want high 11's on motor with something that is still reasonably streetable, I'd suggest a 383 since you're rebuilding the motor anyway. 425 hp will get you moving pretty quick, but 11.80's on the motor will probably take a good 30 hp more than that with decent traction and the 383 should put you there. Granted, it will set you back about an extra 500-700 dollars, but I think it will prove worth it in the end. I don't know if you're using a roller cam or not, but if so, this goal will be more attainable while still retaining streetability (I'd suggest this too, but retro kits will end up running you 700-1000). If not, it's no biggie. Your bottom end needs to be forged, and a 4-bolt block is a necessity. If yours isn't already, you can have it drilled and tapped. to get high 10's you're gonna have to spray at least a 150 shot probably, and 600 hp on non-forged, 2-bolt main engines = disaster. Don't forget, if you plan on running at the track, you're gonna need a cage and driveshaft loop, which is extra $$$. Hope this helps.

 

think so you want fast and descend gas mpg prepared to spend some money chevy high performance did a 530 horse with accel dfi fuel injuected 383 fast burn crate motor switched to a bigger cam longtube headers bolted it into a 70 chevelle not a light car and it got 20 mpg if you want 10.80 youd better run an auto otherwise your gonna have to be a shiftin fool choices of an auto are 350 400 700r4 4l60 not a 4l60e thats another computer to pay for 350 and 400 can be built strong everyone know this but the 3 speed wont help mpg so now were in to od trannys summit seel a street fighter 700r4 thats taking the abuse of my friends 406 sb vette and its gonna make ls1 cars pay attention the ? isnt how fast or how soon its how much you wanna spend

 

Holy ****. That's the LONGEST run-on sentence I've EVER seen.

And the article in CHP said the car could PROBABLY get 20 mpg if he could keep his foot out of the throttle. But that was with a fuel injected motor. I don't think you'll ever see a carburated engine making that power pulling that kind of mileage. I could be wrong, but I don't think you could do it. You'd have to jet your carb SPECIFICALLY for mileage, so there goes your hp right there.