AlwaysCode390

I told my buddy I would just change it for the $3 and 5 minutes time it would take to switch it out, but he argued with me that everything will be just fine....he always leaves an oil filter on for 7,000 miles ( 2 sets of oil ). He uses a fram regular filter. Do you guys think he is right or wrong?! Will this cause him problems or is he saving a buck?? Thanks---

Kwiksilverz28

I have a friend that sludged up a motor that exact way. Only cost him a set of lifters and a cam and the labor to do it.

Bob5150

You should always replace the filter. That's like draining the old oil out, and putting it back in the motor.

km9v

You can pay a little now or a lot later.

angel71rs

And a Fram filter user to boot.

Tell him to use a quality filter at every oil change, preferably the long truck version.

AlwaysCode390

I never knew personally that FRAM was a crap brand!!! What brand gets Kudos around this site?! BTW , you can change the filter without draining the oil first right? I think I am going to talk him into a change!!!---

anthony714

is he that hard up for cash he cant afford 3 bucks for a filter?

AlwaysCode390

Hes just hard headed and thinks "what he thinks is right no matter what" , lol. I guess he was trying to make a point to ME, but I know better ---

angel71rs

The best IMO are K&N & Mobil 1. I use the M1 #302 (long version) on my 71. Sure you can change the filter b4 draining the oil. That's how I do it, I hate dropping a filter into a pan of drained oil. In fact, some guys that use synthetic oil go for long oil change intervals with intermediate filter changes:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

5thgen69camaro

Definately not ok. And If I were to do that which I dont know why, I wouldnt use Fram

I always go with Mobil 1 Though Ive been told to stay away from synthetic oil with my 69 Camaro so Ive been using regular Penzoil. Anyone else heard not to use synthetic in the older cars? Been wanting to try out the AMS Oil but its expensive and synthetic.

angel71rs

2 reasons not to go with synth on older cars: 1. the seals aren't designed for synth oil, especially valve stem seals, so they can let synth by. I had this happen on an 89 Formula. I put in M1 synth and the thing smoked like a crop duster on startups. I went back to dino oil and all was good. 2. synth can act as a solvent, so if you have some crud helping maintain a seal, synth will desolve it and can help it start a drip.

If you want to try a synth, give M1 5w-40 Truck & Suv a try. It has gotten great reviews when used in LS1s as far as used oil analysis results. Only one better seems to be the German Castrol. Ams oil is a good oil, but the M1 T&Suv is readily available off the shelf at Walmart. I buy a 5 qt jug + 1 loose quart for my 98 for cheap compared to the high toot oils like redline, royal purple, ams oil.

Guido67SS

It's like taking a shower and putting your dirty underwear back on. Why would you do that?

I buy 5 quarts of the cheapest oil I can find. After my oil has drained and with the oil drain plug still off, I pour a quart of clean oil in the motor so it can flush out the dirty oil is left in the bottom of the pan. Then I put in the new oil.

I use AC oil filters. My Choice!

FastZinTennessee

I like ACdelco, Purolator and Wix. I think I'm gonna keep it simple and just run the ACdelco filters on the new motor.

stale

I wouldn't even use a Fram filter for one oil change, let alone two.

IHI

In reality it will really depend on internals of engine. In the past I've cut open many a filter on my work trucks, and race car every other oil change just to see what's going on inside. If everything has been well maintained a filter going through 2 services will be just fine-meaning if you cut open the filter and have no major clumps of crap and/or anything other than normal metallic flake, you could safely go 2 services before replacing.

But for no more than a filter costs, it's a cheap piece of mind to just replace it so you get that warm and fuzzy feeling of doing it the right way. oils and filters are light years ahead of where they used to be even 10 yrs ago with deisgn, ingredients/addatives, and materials but for the $3-8 it costs, why not just do it and be done?

As for synthetics, from what I've found if motor is new/realitively newer with no leakage anywhere, making the switch is okay. It's when you start getting into the higher milage and naturally leaking/seeping engines that your kind of wasting your money since the synthetic is a lil slicker and thinner and will find it's way past questionable seals. IMO after seeingquite a few motors torn down after running synthetics, there is no comparison to their lubrication abilites. The motor in my car had 5-6K street miles and just over 1800 passes on it when I tore it down-all the mains/rod and cam bearings still had the teflon coating on them and looked good as new so I will forever run synthetic in my race motors. Daily drivers, I just dont think the additional cost of a synthetic oil swap will be any benefit to a properly maintained dino oil service, unless you start it from a new motor and yes, you can go longer durations between services using synthetiocs than dino oil's. FWIW when I first started racing I used nothing but valvoline 5-30/10-30 dino oil and after a month's worth of street driving and bracket racing the oil was good and black. After switching to synthetics with same wear and tear per month, the oil comes out tinted darker, but is in no way black like the dino oils would become and carbon/sludge build up has been non-existant after switching to synthetic.

Growing up I personally never had issues with Fram, but there has been alot of talk from racers that have lost motors with them due to poor flow resulting in loss of oil pressure and bearings being taken out. Only ones I use now is A/C Delco for my work trucks since that's what dealer has on the shelf-even though I noted 5-10psi higher oil pressure the few times I tried Wix or Purolater filter on the same truck. Race car gets K&N due to extremely tough case to withstand higher psi and the built in nut of bottom to help getting it off during services with the lack of space in my car. If anybodies ever cut open a standard filter and cut open a wix or racing brand wix and/or K&N the material thickness is night and day between the good filters and the cheapy's.