200 cc is the volume of the intake port. Bigger flows more, generally. Stock is around 150-160. Some 195 heads are better than some 200 cc heads, so you just can't go by size. That head flow site listed above is an excellent reference.

I would again suggest you look at the Trick Flow 23 degree heads. Btw, over 200 cc is getting big. Too much volume and you lose low lift flow. When you look at flow charts for street/strip cylinder heads, flow at .400" lift is probably the most important spec. Does it do you any good if a 215 head flows more than a 195 head at .600" lift when your cam is at or under .500" lift?

64cc is the volume of the combustion chamber. With flat tops in a 350 and 76 cc heads, the volume of the cylinder (swept volume) compressed into the volume of the chamber when the piston comes up during the compression stroke, the ratio of the swept volume and the chamber volume is about 9-1 (I'm simplifying here). But if you pop on heads with 64cc chambers, that same swept volume is getting squeezed into a smaller chamber, so the ratio increases to about 10-1. As long as it doesn't ping, you get about 10-15 extra hp for every point increase in compression.

Btw, excellent times on your car!

 

does edelbrock have a good power combo thats working for anybody?

i saw a nice pair of 64 cc. 170 cc intake port volume heads that i liked. there iron and 2.02 \ 1.60. i want to match them up with a edelbrock airgap intake manifold and a good cam to make a good amount of power.

anyone have any good suggestions towards edelbrock combos?

 

cc's is short for cubic centimeters, a measure of volume.

The 65cc combustion chamber is the bowl on the bottom side of the heads where you see the bottom face of the valves. The smaller it is, the more compression you will have.

The 200cc and 215cc intake runner is how much volume is inside the intake runner. The more volume inside the intake runner, obviously, the more air you can move through it. However, this is where matching your cam to your heads comes into play. If you were building a 383 with a big cam, you'd probably need 215cc heads to allow enough air in to sufficiently fill the cylinders at high RPM. But if you're building a 350 with anything short of a pretty wild cam, 200cc should be more than enough. Here's why you don't want the biggest heads you can buy:

Air is basically a fluid, because it reacts like one. So the more pressure (or in this case vacuum) you put into something, the less volume of matter (air) you'll be able to flow through it. This is what happens with small heads. You can't flow as much air in there, but it comes in at a lot higher velocity, which creates more torque. With a larger intake runner, you can physically fit more air in during the same duration, but it's not coming in as fast. So if you've got a big engine turning high RPM's (above 6000), then you want a large intake runner, otherwise you'll be starving it for fuel and air, and it won't run well.

Your best advice? Pick a cam that you want. One that you think will meet your goals. Then talk to that cam manufacturer and get their suggestions for heads. Then call those head manufacturers and cross reference it with them and see what they recommend. That would probably be your best bet.

As far as Edelbrock goes, their Performer RPM package comes with cam, springs/retainers/locks etc., intake, heads, and I think you can get the carb if you want it too. 420 hp and 415 torque if I'm not mistaken. I think if you get their roller cam it bumps you up to 440 hp and 440 torque (or something close). Their cam is pretty good size. It's not too terribly big as far as max lift goes, but it's got a pretty good amount of duration, so expect a lopey idle and less vacuum, although it should still pull enough for power brakes.

 

what is an eqivalant to the gm fastburn heads

 

Hands down......get the AFR heads and you will need to up size the cam a little. I have the Holley Systemax package.( It was cheap) It has the 235-240 @.050 on the cam with .490 lift. I should be around 425-450hp at the flywheel. (I did some mild porting on the heads and intake.) I can actually get about 15 mpg on the highway. I didn't want major hp from this camaro. Just wanted to be in the high 12's. I should be close. It ran 8.54 in the 1/8th on street tires.(Fairly skinny ones at that.)

 

The Fast Burn heads require use of a Vortec style intake, althought I've heard that the newest ones are supposed to accept both Vortec and normal style intakes. Whether or not that's true, or if they're out yet, I don't know. You'd have to ask. I'd agree with SS69MAN, the AFR's are about as good as it gets for heads their size.

 

isn't the holley streetmax package aluminum heads? im not to sure if i want to go aluminum heads. they cost more and isn't the compression ratio a lil less.

i think im gunna go with the edelbrock performer rpm package.

keep in mind i only have a 2 bolt main.

 

Yes, and so is the Edelbrock package. And compression ratio changes depend on the volume of the combustion chambers. If you get the 72cc chambers your compression will stay around the same. If you get the 64c chambers it will go up close to a full point. What you need to do is when you figure out which package you're going with, call that manufacturer, tell them exactly what you have and what you're getting, and ask them to give you what compression ratio you will have if you use stock type head gaskets. If it's too much for pump gas, you can use thicker head gaskets or get the larger combustion chamber size. If it's too low, you can use thinner head gaskets or get the smaller combustion chamber size. Remember, with aluminum heads you can run a higher CR and still use pump gas.

 

k. so assume i buy that edelbrock pkg.
aluminum heads, .234 duration cam.
i make 420 horsepower. with 10:1 compression. and a edelbrock 750 cfm carb.

a) what will my gas mileage look like (th-350 tranny and 3.73's)
b) will my 2-bolt main be able to handle it?
c) will be freshly built 10 bolt rearend handle it? (eaton posi. 3.73's.)

 

A) Bad. 10-12 I would think, but I don't know. I've never had a setup like that. Anyone else have any educated guesstimations?

B) That's iffy. I've seen some guys running a 400 hp 2-bolt engine with a 100 shot of spray and never have a problem. But I've seen others with a 400 hp 2-bolt engine spin bearings, throw rods, break cranks, you name it. If you're already taking the engine out anyway, I'd suggest disassembling it and getting a 4-bolt main conversion from someone like Milodon. Don't be suckered into billet main caps. Don't get me wrong, they're great... if you're making 700 hp and turning 7 grand, but you won't need them. Anyway, disassemble the engine, get you a good 1/2" drill and a tap (the kit should tell you what size and pitch) and then drill/tap your block for the new main caps. Then it will need to be taken to a machine shop and align honed and new bearings installed. It's more money, but I'm the kinda guy that would recommend (and do) it just to be safe. Anyone else have an opinion? Maybe I'm being overcautious?

 

i get 8-10 mpg right now. thats why i think something isn't right.

and my rearend should hold. my dad used to have a sprint car with 550 horsepower on a 2 bolt main. but he rebuilt it once every 2 weekends. how much will it cost to convet it to a 4 bolt?

whats the easiest way to check if its a 2 bolt? im not 100% sure. my engine is from a corvette 73-77. l48.
where is the casting number on the block. maybe ill check that.

 

I wouldn't go with the Edelbrock cam. It's an older, outdated grind. The new RPM heads are nice though, as are their intake manifolds. AFR's are awesome but pricey. As someone else already mentioned, the Trick Flow 23* heads (195cc) are excellent heads and can be had for around $900 (Performance Heads advertises them for $895 w/ free shipping in the back of CHP magazine). Another good choice would be the Pro Lightning (Iron) heads - 180cc. They are around $800. Throw in a Comp. XE268 cam and you'll be very happy. Good luck!

 

Make sure you use strong new main and rod cap bolts and your 2 bolt main should hold up fine.

 

If you do disassembly/reassembly yourself, the kit will run you 200-250 dollars, plus probably 80-100 dollars for align honing, and what... 40 dollars for bearings? I don't remember how much those are going for. Save up for another couple months. Personally, I think it's cheap insurance.

 

k i think im going to go with the trick flow23 degree 190 cc heads. with the 64 cc chambers. how much lighter will the aluminum heads make my car?

and i thought iron heads are better than aluminum. aluminum is just lighter.

wont my compression ratio be less with the aluminum than iron?
and will i still be able to run pump gas at 10:1 compression and these heads.

What kind of cam should i put in with these heads? i want something in the duration of 230-234 @.050. and will the edelbrock performer rpm air gap intake still be good for this combo?