Okay, i currently have a 1967 camaro with a 350. the 350 is from a motorhome in late 70's. i dont know exactly. it's bored .030 over, and has a stock cam. i just redid the heads to a 2.02 \ 1.60 and port and polished them, matched the weiand intake and rebuilt my holley 600 cfm.
im making bewteen 350 hp - 380 at the flywheel.

Now. i got a bit of money, and im thinkin about buyin new heads, and intake. i wanna go with the edelbrock rpm airgap intake. ( i love it) and a nice set of heads that will make me have a real power increase without spending a **** load of money.
i kind of want to go aluminum to cut back on weight and heat. but id rather have something cheaper.

im puttin in a .224-.234 cam in forsure. and redoin my bottom end to handle the power. im hopeing it's a 4bolt main cuz of the motorhome thing, and i have 2 power steering belts.

what could i do to get around 430-475 horsepower. and still get around 8-10 mpg.

 

If you already have 2.02/1.60's p/p and a good Weiand.....why buy another package? I would put that money into a roller cam setup, LOTS of power and the heads/intake combo should be fine.

BamaZ28

 

how much more power would a good roller cam setup give me? if i have 350 hp flywheel now?. and how much is it going to cost me? and where is a good roller cam kit that i can look at?

 

actually im not going to go roller cam, i want to keep it hydraulic.

how much more power would i get putting in a .230 cam and bringin my compression ratio up to about 10:1

im at 9.1:1 right now.

I wanna keep around 10 mpg. as well.

 

You're confusing roller/flat tappet with solid/hydraulic. You can get a hydraulic roller cam, but a retro kit would be pretty expensive (700-1000 for everything). You might be better off buying a new roller block from GM (I think the short block is a little under 1000?? Not sure though). You can get more lift with less duration, which makes it a LOT more streetable and gets better mileage while still making more power. If you don't want to spend that much dough and want to stick with a flat tappet, it will probably take more than a cam with 430 duration to make that kind of power. When you get into a cam that big, streetability starts to become a concern.

If it came out of a motorhome, chances are really good it's a 4-bolt, so that will save you some cash.

You could always go with iron Vortec heads and save about 600 dollars and do the conversion to a roller cam. Vortecs flow basically the same as an LT-1 head, they're just not aluminum. They have small 64cc combustion chambers though, so it would probably put you above 9.1:1 compression, which can be bad with iron heads (a lot depends on the cam though). They will support 450 hp fairly easily. You don't get the weight savings, but iron heads actually make more power because they retain heat. Due to the heat lost in aluminum heads, you have to flow about 6% more air through them just to make up for the lost power.

Anyway, my suggestions? If you have the money, go with either a roller cam conversion or make it a 383 and get Vortec heads. If you're dead set on aluminum, get aluminum heads and stick with the flat tappet 350. I've seen engines with stock Vortec heads and the GM roller HOT cam (218/228 duration, .525/.525 lift) make 420 hp on a 350, which is close to what you want. Hope this helps.

 

if you have 76cc smog heads on there, a swap to 64cc aluminum heads would up your compression and give you a big hp increase from the higher flow. More than you would get from converting to a roller cam setup and might cost less. Besides, if you do have smog heads on there, you wouldn't see much of a benefit from going roller. Heads would be a big bottleneck.

Trick flow 23 degree heads are excellent bang for the buck. Not as good as AFR 195's, but hundreds less, and they are building a very good reputation.

A place mentioned in this thread has them for under $900 shipped:

http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/005892.html

 

i do have those smog heads, the 76 cc. but they are redone. thats why i was thinking that they are robbing me a lot of power. if i put in a new set of 2.02 or 2.05 heads with a matched intake. then just put in a nice lumpy solid hydraulic cam and redo lifters and valve springs. ill stick with the same mileage and pick up a lot of power.

so what heads will flow more than what i have now, and will match to a edelbrock rpm airgap intake manifold? that my holley 600 will sit nicely on?

 

Pretty much anything will flow better than the heads you have on there. Go to http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...598/index.html and it has a list of just about every head you can think of and it's flow numbers. I think you'll see that even with your 2.02/1.60 valves and minor portwork, stock castings are still crap.

You're still confused about your cams. You can't have a hydraulic solid cam. You can have a solid roller, or a hydraulic roller, or a solid flat tappet or a hydraulic flat tappet, but you can't have a solid roller.

I've seen some guys make 340 rwhp with stock LT-1 heads and a GM HOT cam, which is about 425 hp at the flywheel. If you have the money, I'd say go with some AFR 195's (less than 1000) and a roller cam converstion kit and make a 383 out of it. If you can't do that, I'd say go with some Vortecs, a roller cam conversion, and a 383. If you can't do that, I'd say Vortec and 383. I know Vortecs are iron heads, but they flow as well as LT-1's, so don't count them out. Plus they're 550 from Scoggin-Dickey with valve seats already machined out to accept the larger springs that come with it. Stock Vortec springs are only good to about .480 lift.

 

yeah my mistake i meant hydraulic roller. im thinking of going with the vortecs and an rpm airgap, and the 64 cc will bring up my compression ratio.

i was thinking about going to a 383 seein how i am already bored .030. but how will that affect my gas mileage. i know a guy with a 383 and he gets 6 mpg. granted he's makin 490 hp flywheel.

can i buy a set of heads that i can just bolt on? or am i going to have to get them machined to match up with my block and intake?

what kind of cam should i get, lift and duration wise?

 

Hah, well ya can't really expect to get too much more than that when you're making 500 hp.

Be careful with bumping your compression that much. If you're already at 9:1, going to 64cc chambers will put you around 10:1. You can use a really thick head gasket, and that should bring you back down to around 9.5:1 or so, maybe a little less. If you get a big enough cam, especially if it has a small LSA (110 or less) then you can probably get away with 9.5:1. But with a carburator, that's pushing it.

If you're going 383 with a hydraulic roller, I'd actually say you could get something a little bigger than the HOT cam I mentioned before. With its bigger displacement and longer stroke, you can get away with a little bigger cam and not kill your streetability. HOT cam is as follows:

218/228 duration, .525/.525 lift. I've seen 340 rwhp on LT-1's with this cam (425 hp or so), so expect around 450 hp with a 383. You could try a little bit bigger cam (say 224/234, .540-.550 lift) and you might pick up another 10-20 hp, but it will probably cost you some low end torque. But if you're just making a strip machine out of it, that doesn't really matter.

Also, remember stock Vortecs won't handle more than .480 lift. Scoggin Dickey sells Vortecs machined witih larger springs that will handle up to .550 lift, so that should handle just about any cam you want to throw at it. Anything bigger than that and you should go up to some 200c or larger heads. Vortecs won't flow enough to feed anything too much bigger than that HOT cam on a 383.

Oh, and I was going back over your first post just now, and if you only have stock ported heads and a stock cam, I doubt you're making 350 hp. I'd say you're probably making 250 hp with your current setup ('70's motor cams were SMALL, and ported heads won't give you much of an increase in power with a stock cam). The whole point of me pointing this out was to make you realize how big of a jump in hp you're making. Prepare to be awed.

 

well im sure as hell getting more than 250 horsepower. i ran a 13.39 @ 101 mph. on a 3800 car w\ driver. so somethins kinda wierd. i wish i knew more about the engine. i just redid the heads and intake and jetted my carb. i went from a 15.2 - 13.39. with only spending $2000

 

I would say leave the basic combo alone, and tweak it some.

Get a nice, split duration hyd. roller cam, to help the stock exhaust ports out. Swap out to a Performer RPM airgap, and a 750 Holley; that 600 will be hurting on the top end.

Drive that around for a while, and then if you want more, shop for some heads. 93 octane with the right cam can live at 10.5 comp with steel heads, 11 with aluminum. If you want better gas mileage, swap in an OD tranny.

 

Ah, well I stand corrected then. I just don't see many stock cammed engines running that strong.

I still wouldn't recommend 10.5:1 with iron heads. That'd take a HUGE cam to get your cranking pressure down enough to run pump gas. I'd still not recommend over 9.5:1, but you can talk to your local speed shop and see what they say. If anything, go a little short. You can always add thinner head gaskets later, but if you blow a hole in your piston... That's a little more expensive.

 

i think im just gunna get some 64 cc heads. with the 2.02 \ 1.60's.
i dont wanna go hydraulic roller, i dont wanna have to **** around with it to much, i wanna drive the car. not just race it.

so ill do the heads, maybe a nice .228 duration cam, cuz i only have a stock stall.

then an airgap intake, and ill get my engine builder to match em up and do whatever he needs to fit the pistons and what not.

what kind of head should i get? keeping in mine im bored .030.
Part #'s please.? im thinkin about those vortec's but the cam i want has a .484 lift. so i might have to rethink that one.

 

Here are some heads i was looking at. should i go with a 2.05 in 1.6 ex.? or just stick with the 2.02/1.6?

anywheres here they are at summit.

There DART heads.

Part# DRT-11321111
Chevrolet: 262-400, 64cc, 200 cc intake runner, 2.02/1.60 diameter intake/exhaust valves, 1.250 in. diameter valve springs, straight spark plugs, assembled, 23 degree, aluminum, Pro 1 head

and

Part# DRT-11521122
Chevrolet: 262-400, 64cc, 215 cc intake runner, 2.05/1.60 diameter intake/exhaust valves, 1.437 in. diameter double valve springs, straight spark plugs, assembled, 23 degree, aluminum, Pro 1 head

this is a dumb question. but im learning. what does the 64cc and 215cc. mean? like cubic centermeters of what? i know going from 76cc. to 64 cc. itll bring my compression up. but what will i get from 200 to 215 intake runner?