Here is my current project:

81 Z all original except paint

Everything is getting replaced.

1981 350 block - 4 bolt main, bored +.060, decked & line honed with ARP studs

Eagle cast crank

Stock Rods, recond. with ARP bolts

Hyp. Pistons

Moly Rings, file fitted @ .020 - .025

Lunati Voodoo Camshaft, Lift: .489''/.504'' Duration: 268°/276° RPM Range: 1800-6200

Moly pushrods

Cloyes Dbl roller timing chain

New OEM balancer

Dart Pro-1 Alum 200cc Heads/screw in studs, guide plates,

ARP Head studs

Alum Roller Rockers, 1.5 ratio

Dart single plane manifold with FP 1205s

Edlebrock 750 carb/K&N filter

Holley fuel pump

Griffen Aluminum Radiator/Permacool elec fan/160` stat

TCI super street fighter transmission

10" 3,600 stall convertor

SFI flex plate

Hooker Headers, 3" Full Custom exhaust with Delta Flow flowmasters

I would post some pics but I can't...

 

Sounds like a pretty good combo. I would think a 3000 stall would be PLENTY with that little cam, though. Likewise the single plane intake might not be what you want for a cam that small, although I like the look of a good single plane under the hood myself. The Edelbrock Vic Jr. would be my choice for a single plane intake on that motor, hands down. It was my go-to manifold for street performance for many years. Nowadays the dual plane Performer RPM is probably just as good a choice, maybe a little better, but I've only ever used it once on one of my own cars so I don't have enough experience with it to say for sure. Seems to have just a little more low end torque than the Vic Jr. but gives up just a scosh on the top end in HP to the Vic. Most dyno comparisons the difference is practically nil between them.

Also, unless your current crank is chewed up OR you plan on stroking the motor to 383+ I wouldn't bother with the new crank. Stock cranks are PLENTY strong for what you're doing, if properly machined, and I don't think the Eagle cast crank would really be that much of an "upgrade."

You didn't mention rods, but stock rods are, again, PLENTY for what you're doing with proper machining IF you upgrade the rod bolts. I use ARP WaveLocs in all my motors and I've never broken one yet, where I have broken stock and even generic 'stage 1' performance rod bolts.

Head studs are a pain to work around and also definitely not needed for this motor. A good set of high quality head bolts (ARP) is all you'll ever need PLUS you can take the heads off the motor while it's still installed in the car if you need to- studs make that difficult to impossible.

It's sure going to be a lot more fun to drive that car than it is now with the stock motor!

 

Thanks for the feedback. I completely agree. I'm building it for a guy I know and I sure do wish it was mine, haha.

I see what you're saying about the camshaft being small. and not needing that much stall. Basically I left the options open if he wanted to go more radical on the cam and possibly add nitrous (the convertor has anti-ballooning plates as well.

the head studs, well for extra security I guess I've just always built my motors with studs. The studs now from ARP have allen heads so you can remove the stud if needed. Makes it a lil more easier.

Yes stock rods with ARP bolts, I never use factory type fasteners except for maybe on the oil pan, haha.

Right now the motor is ready to be primed and fired up!!

 

Here is a pic...

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/DSCN5864.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/DSCN5860.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/DSCN5863.JPG

 

Looks a lot like my project cars- shiny engine in a not-so-shiny engine bay. Hood off, fender guard on duty. As it was meant to be. Have fun with it!