I forgot to ask, do you have the stock cast iron heads?

 

ya i do, doesn't matter i have all the parts picked out and im just getting a quote on installation. i would rather get it installed professionally w/ a warranty. ill just get it done by my guys then myself or w/e and screw it up

 

So what parts did you go with?

 

i was in talkin to russ forever about it.

so hes goin to make a deal for these,

Airgap... well its called the "crosswind" from performance parts or something.
eather the 670 street avenger or the 650 demon.
282H 4002 crane cam kit w/lifters and matching valve springs.

there all match up... and he also checked the #s on the block and heads... and it will be alllllll good... so all i really need to do is get some better gears and hes going to keep and eye out for me.

now im just getting an idea on the installation....

 

What cam series is that - Blazer? I don't think you understood my previous posts, so post your duration @ 0.050" #'s as well as just the seat to seat generic '280' or '274' cam. Otherwise, we cannot get an accurate picture of what your cam specs actually are. Look in the cam catalogue for these figures, and write them down. If you dont know your *exact* cam specs, then right off the bat you're shooting yourself in the foot. This is important info you need to know.

What I can tell you from personal experience on my 1980 Z-28 4-speed (my first Z/28), is that I ran a 284 Energizer cam (230 @ 0.050") and it was a dog. This was many years ago when I thought I knew what I was doing but really didn't. I ran that cam, the stock Q Jet, Weiand Action Plus intake, and headers. I had to take out the stock rear gears because the cam wouldnt start working until around 4000+ RPM, so I had 3.73 gears installed. That made a big differnce, but the low compression meant that the car still didnt pull the way it should have. I lost to mildly warmed over stock 5.0 Mustangs. The primary reason: I fell into the trap of over-camming my car.

If your cam is as big as I think it is @ 0.050", I think you're making a mistake. With 8-8.5:1 compression, you simply cannot put too large a cam in a stock 350. The bigger cam bleeds down cylinder pressure and creates a power curve that creates a substantial loss of torque in the bottom and midrange which you will not get back even in higher RPM ranges. I speak from personal experience on this, as it looks to me like you are making the same mistakes I did way back when.

 

Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 282 intake/282 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 226 intake/226 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .470 in. intake/.470 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 106 degrees
* RPM range: 1,500-5,500
* 9.5 to 11.0:1 compression ratio recommended

 

Note this part:

9.5 to 11.0:1 compression ratio recommended

8:1-8.5:1 is at least a full point of compression less than what the cam company calls for.

Also - that lobe sep angle is *really* tight for a street car and that wide a duration. I will say however, that is the one aspect which will make this cam lope in your engine, and if thats what it is you really desire, you've go it.

But I would like to point out, a smaller cam will make more power given your compression ratio.

 

ok great thx for all the info...

what exactly makes the compression in the engine?

 

Compression Ratio.