I finally got through putting my new heads on and now I can't get it to fire up. It just turns and turns and occasionally it will kinda backfire out of the carburator and burble out of the open headers. It's getting plenty of gas because it's still pumping it in there and I pour some in it to begin with. So I thought it might be the distributor in wrong but I marked the rotor with the distributor and the distributor base with the intake and line it all back up perfectly the way it was before I took it apart. And the motor was never rotated with the distributor out. It could be flooded but usually when I flood it I can hold it to the floor and it will eventually fire but not this time. Anyone have any idea what it could be?

 

How did you set the lash on the valve train? Does the car turn over easily or does it strain? Did you check the engine to be sure that the ignition does fire on the compression stroke? Does it even fire on all cylinders? You say it is still pumping gas, are you sure that the float valve is not stuck? good luck

 

You most likely have the distributor out of position. The occasional firing hints to that as the problem. I've tried to keep an engine in the exact spot and put the distributor back, but I'm always off. Try advancing the distributor as far as you can and see if it starts up. If that doesn't do it, then try retarding it as much as possible. You're most likely off a tooth on the distributor. I was going to say if you did the cam, then you might be out 180 on the distributor, but if you never turned the engine over than that wouldn't happen.

 

Yeah, the dist. being off a tooth is the only thing I can think of but I don't see why since it went back in lined up perfectly the way it came out... Anyway, I'll try it out in the morning. Thanks!

 

Well I've been around the clock on the distributor and it still won't fire up. Only the literal fire out of the carb. No clue...

 

are you sure that the valve lash is not to tight? Are you sure that the plug wires are on correct? Are you absolutely sure that the dist is pointing at the number one spark plug wire location on the dist. cap when the number one cylinder is on the compression stroke. if the engine is not on the compression stroke you are off by 180 on the dist.

 

Did the same thing once... marked the distributor and everything and the darn thing was still 180 degrees out of phase.

 

I don't guess the valve lash is too tight, I just finger tightened the rockers until all of the play was out of the rocker(didn't wiggle), then I gave them a half turn and tightened the set screws, same as I always have. What do you mean exactly about the compression stroke? I just stuck a screwdriver into the #1 sparkplug hole and turned the motor by hand until I felt the piston come all the way up. Is that right? I can't say I'm a pro that's for sure, but I thought I was getting better, lol. A partner sure would be handy for all this mess... Thanks for the help!

 

That only gives you a 50/50 shot. You need to plug the #1 spark plug hole with your finger and have the engine slowly rotated over until you feel compression. Then slowly continue rotating the engine until you reach the timing mark you want at idle (say 12 degrees btdc). Make sure the rotor is now pointing at plug #1. You can go one step further. Turn the key on when you have the above done, but do not crank. Hook the #1 plug wire to the spark plug while still out of the motor. Loosen the dist. so it can be turned and ground the plug on the engine. Now slowly turn the dist one way or the other until the plug fires. Lock the dist in that position and your timing will be virtually exact.

I'd also double check that you have the correct 18436572 plug wire order when viewed clockwise from the top.

Jody

 

Thanks Jody, sounds like you know what you're talking about. I've given up for the day but I think I've got the dist where I want it pointed(#1) on the compression stroke but NOW I can't get the dist to fully drop in where I need it to. It'll drop in the next tooth to the left but not that one or the next few to the right. This thing better run some mid 6s if it ever runs again, lol.

 

Try using an oil pump priming tool or a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump shaft a little. That's what is not lining up right. I usually turn it so the slot is pointed at cylinder #7 on the engine.

Jody

 

I went back to try plugging my finger over the #1 spark plug hole while I turned the crank by hand but never felt compression, which I figured would just feel like air pressure pushing my finger out. So I rotated it again back to where the timing mark was and still never felt compression. So I had my wife turn the key and let it turn a few times w/ my finger in the hole and never felt anything. What gives? There's not a hole in the piston or anything, or at least wasn't when I had the head off. And it ran fine before. Any ideas?

 

Are you plugging the hole completely? There has to be some amount of compression, and your finger will not be able to hold it in. If there's nothing that' not good to say the least, but I've never seen one without any compression, unless you have the valve too tight and it's holding them open.

When you did the valve adjustment you didn't go back and re-do some again after turning the engine over because they were loose did you? Does it spin over like it has compression, or just free-wheels like the plugs are out?

Jody

 

If you do not feel any compression then you need to examine the the lash technique that you used. You may also find that the valves are not seated properly. (It does happen, i.e. bent valve) You only need three things for the engine to fire: fuel, compression and spark. good luck

 

Yeah I stuck my pinky into the hole as far as it would go and completely plugged it. No I didn't go back and readjust the valves, I haven't taken the covers back off. And I only gave them a half a turn so surely the valves aren't open. What a nightmare.