Hi guys. Ok, my 69 is still stock and i'll finally be gettin some $ so the first thing i need is to do the suspension since the car rides like it has hydrolics or something
What I want is to someday put minitubs in the rear(not important yet, but keeping it in mind so i dont get parts that i'll have to just throw away), upgrade to disk brakes in the rear as well, and I want the car to ride at LEAST equal to my old 94z28, if not better.(it only had lowering springs and a strut tower bar). I want to be able to fit at least 17x9.5 wheels on it (i have extras). And finally, I want the front a little lower and the rear can be stock heighth (or sit jacked up in the air looks kinda cool too
What do you recommend and I am probably the brokest person on this board so if you can estimate prices and try to keep them low... Thanks for all your suggestions!!

 

Here is a list of my suspension and brake mods on my 67 SS:

Global West tubular upper and lower control arms with Del-A-Lum bushings
Global West S-2 Coil springs (1" drop)
Global West front sway bar with poly endlinks and bushings
Global West L16 multi leaf springs (1.25" drop)
Caltrax Bars
Hal 12 way adjustable shocks
Steeroids Rack and pinion steering
Wilwood front disc brake kit with 4 piston dynalite calipers
Wilwood rear disc brake kit

I also have ZR1 17x11's in the rear and 17x9.5's in front

I have about $4000 in this package. My 67 SS will smokes my bros car in handling. He has a 95 Camaro Z28 with the entire G2 suspension.

If you are looking for a budget suspension build I would just get:

Global West tubular upper control arms ($500 -$600)
Global West S-2 coil springs ($149)
Comp Engineering 3 way adjustable shocks (not sure on price)
Caltrax bars ($299)

Get some sort of sub frame connectors that will not get in the way of the front leaf spring perch like mine do. I have Comp Engeneering. Not sure if you have multi leaf or not. You could use aluminum blocks to lower the rear of the car. You will have to shop around for brakes there is alot of packages for the 1st gens. The Wilwood kit I have cost about $650 for the front and about $600 for the rear.

In my opinion that would be a good start..

Good Luck!
Sean(Pig)

 

Hey Sean-
How's that T56 working out for you?
I never did get to see any pics, and was wondering if you could shoot some over?
Tyler

 

Silver Pig went the whole way. If you have the 4 large to spend, copying his suspension should be good.

If you don't have that much cash, you might consider stock arms, DelAlum bushings (or polyurethane as lesser choice), and the "Guldstrand mod" for better camber gain. See the link.

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...sion_geome.htm

Use lowering springs front and rear or front only and lowering blocks in the rear, plus a larger front antiroll bar plus maybe a rear bar, and some good shocks, as well as your larger wheels and tires. Rear disk kits are available from folks like Baer, SS Brakes, MP Brakes, etc.

The problem is that some fabricating is required, and selection of spring and antiroll bar rates is important. Either contact someone who does this a lot on 1st gens or be prepared to buy a few sets and experiment yourself.

If I was doing it myself and had limited funds, I'd do the Guldstrand mod, maybe cut the front coils a half turn, use 1 or 1.5 inch rear blocks, new rear spring bushings and front arm bushings, new ball joints, and a non-adjustable gas shock.

I'd be very particular with the front alignment, with -0.5 to -1.0 deg camber and as much caster as you could crank in (assuming power steering). If it's Spanish steering (man-u-el), get a power unit. I think one of the quick, high-effort gears might be available. If not, a good rebuilt stock one.

I'd also replace the front subframe rubber mounts with solid mounts, formerly sold by Herb Adams VSE, and maybe others. Subframe connectors wouldn't hurt, and aren't expensive. Weld them in.

IMO, which is never humble, doing the above will give you a 1st gen that will be on a par with most new F-cars, 'stangs, etc. as long as the tires are equivalent. You'll have a car probably better than '67 TransAm race cars (maybe better than '68/'69). If you don't buy good sticky tires, the rest won't help much; if you DO by the good tires, and don't so the rest, that won't help much either. All the stuff has to work together.

My $.02

 

Tyler! How is it going? My T56 has been going strong for about 6 months now. I finally got a computer again! I will be more than happy to send you some pictures of the car. I would like to pro tour this car, tell me what you think when you get the pics!

Thanks again for the great work and research!

Sean(Pig)

 

Try going to www.pro-touring.com there are plenty of knowledgeable people over there with experience with both low-buck bolt-on front suspension mods to all of the different aftermarket subframes available.

You can look at members cars there and get a good idea of what works.

17x8s are best for the front and 17x9.5s will work in back with the proper backspacing. There is more information at www.pro-touring.com.

Hope this helps.

Dave

 

WOW!! Thanks for all the advise!! Silver Pig that sounds like a bad *** car!! You guys are incredible. Ok, now to figure out if I can spend the money or not.
Thanks again and oh yea, Silver Pig, can I ask what kind of rims you have and if you needed backspacers or minitub or rear shock relocations to get them on? Thanks for the help
Toby

 

TK, No mini tubs needed. On stock length rearend car you will need four 2" wheel adaptors, I got mine from skulte performance.

Here is my story; I have a 2" norrowed 9" rearend So with my thick wilwood rotor hats I needed 3.75" wheel adaptor.

The 11's out back only sit inside the fender well about a half inch.

here is a link to some pics of the car:

enjoy

Good luck again,
Sean(Pig)