I have a '67 327ci that i am planning on putting a cam in real soon. I wanted to know if it is worth shelling out the extra 500 bucks to go for the roller cam. I am planning on going with a Crane Cam 509/528 lift 284/292 adv. dur cam. Is there power difference with the roller, and is it worth it.

 

CHP67,
Roller lifters reduce friction with the additional benefit of allowing faster more aggressive camshaft profiles that increase HP.
A flat camshaft is cheaper than a roller but in the long run a flat cam can cost you. Flat lifters are fine for a street engine. The problem with flat lifters is that if they don't spin they will wear the lobes flat almost instantly. The cost of repairing the engine would have paid for a roller cam. A roller cam is the only way to go. I would also recommend a girdle for the rocker studs. Running high rpm requires higher spring pressures to avoid valve float. You can use higher spring pressures with Rollers with less risk of failure. Decide what rpm range you wnat to run, and decide if is what you want to do. I don't think of rollers as an added expense. I think of it as a way to protect my investment. Hope this helps. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Guido

 

The highest RPM i should be hitting is around 6000 to 6500. I have heard people talk about girdles, but know nothing about them. What do they do exactly, how much are they and will i need them at about 6000rpm? Thanks

 

On a 6500rpm short stroke street motor such as yours, I would use a solid flat tappet camshaft because hydraulics, without lots of extra money spent on the valve train, will float @ that RPM. I've heard of hydraulic motors that rev that high without float, but special attention was paid to get the perfect set of springs, good lightweight lifters, etc. A rev kit would prolly help...

I'm afraid of the solid rollers because of the pressure they exert on the springs. I'm told they fatigue the springs really fast and just aren't street friendly. On a weekend car, it prolly wouldn't be so bad, but I intend to drive my ride every day. I would go for a solid flat cam because they still may kill valvesprings, but Chevy trusted them in daily drivers (70 LT-1, L88, DZ302, and various other famous motors) so they must be durable enough to run on the street.

 

If you can afford it go roller!!! Way better power there is nothing wrong w/ solid lifters. Get a quality machine shop and have them set up the valvesprings. The machine shop can put springs on that have some built in "margin". I have a sold roller and it makes a very noticeable differance over the solid fat tappet that I took out.

 

If you can afford it go roller!!! Way better power there is nothing wrong w/ solid lifters. Get a quality machine shop and have them set up the valvesprings. The machine shop can put springs on that have some built in "margin". I have a sold roller and it makes a very noticeable differance over the solid fat tappet that I took out.

 

I have heard solid cams have to be adjusted a lot to remain consistant. Is the RPM I am running really gonna lose that much power if i am running a hydraulic cam? also what are rocker girdles???

 

Just get anti pump up hydraulic lifters and you'll be fine. Check your local circle track speed shop. Most of the guys will know what I'm talking about. They're popular with entry level class cars because it'll allow you room to spin the motor higher without spending a ton more money.

 

If you are looking for easy useage then go with a hydralic cam.
For street able power and some weekend racing go with the solid
lifter cam. For all out racing and some street driving go with the solid roller, it can not be beat for the agressive profiles you can get. Also the lack of friction is a plus.
Unless you plan on only incressing your lift and duration a little over stock the springs will have to be changed even on a hydralic cam. so the savings is not that much.
I have used all three, and with the solid having to set the valves does not take that long and with the use of roller rockers and poly locks they do not need to be messed with that often.
The Solid Roller gives your engine the best bang for the buck (or bucks as the case maybe). The faster opening and closing of the valves and wide assortment of profiles avalable you can get one that will live on the street.
The use of a "stud girdle" is a wise idea. What it does is to stablize the valve train. by mounting on the rocker studs it keeps everything on a strait and even plan. it can be a pain to set the valves but well worth the effort. but do not get one that uses the "U" bolts. Less money but not worth the money spent.
Hope this helps in your quest for speed and power.

 

roller is not cheap. a standard hydraulic or solid cam, lifters, springs, etc.. may be about 300 bucks. a solid roller set up is 1000 bucks. this includes the cam, high pressure springs, roller lifters (300-500 bucks alone), hardened pushrods, 10 degress locks and retainers. all necessary for a decent solid roller due to the aggressive ramps. if its a street car and you are not a SPEED freak, go solid cam and not roller. for the additional horsepower, bang for the buck you could go NOS instead and make plenty more. solid roller is to give the race or street car freak that extra.

just my .02 cents