Actually they didn't just use a 283 crank... while it had the same machining it was a completely different special 302 crank. And I don't think anyone said a 327 was stronger (heck maybe I did), the 327 is better balanced and has greater potential for "increasing" is performance potential.

The larger journal blocks were also used on 327 replacement motors after 1969. Only the lowly 307 got a separate casting. Besides, 327's are a dime a dozen and can be picked up for next to nothing and hot rodded for less than the price of the same mods to a 350. (Compare rebuild kit prices sometimes.)

 

What NGR is saying is that a 327 is a de-stroked 350, or a 350 is a stroked 327, everything else being the same. The valve train plays a greater role in high rpm capability than the stroke. I have the rev limiter set at 7k for my 434 and I've hit it several times (with an aluminum flywheel, it flies through the gears), and I have a friend that runs his 468 to 8k at the track.

 

dang, i have a lot to learn

i think i'm going to have a clone rather than a matching numbers camaro because of the price.

what would be the difference in hp/torque between the 350 ,the 396 and the 454 engine. i know for sure the 454 has plenty but i was wonder the difference since the 350 got probably more parts and it's cheaper too.

also what about trannies. i know automatics are better for the track but i know how to shift though and it's more fun. i heard about auto t400,t350 and stick tremec, muncie, is the t400 more strong to support more hp's rather than a t350, or a tremec 4 speed would be the way to go???

also let's say that i have an open diff, how much money would it be to install a posi traction diff complete.

i did (well not me but my mechanic) a gear swap in my car from 3.08 open diff to 3.42 with torsen diff for $800 including labor. actually i paid $400 for the gears kit and labor and the rest were the gears itself and the diff. i got a cheaper one frol slp, the stock one for ls1's but i know that one can not handle the power of a big engine. but it was $99

also StorminNorm how much you paid for the stuff you did just to get a reference on how expensive is to fix something on this pupies.

i know they are too much questions but i want to buy something good from the begining

thanks guys

 

1) Fix windows and lock - FREE

2) Radiator - $175 (20 % off sale at www.classicindustries.com) and I picked it up myself in person and installed it myself. They are in Huntington Beach or Hermosa - one of those Beach places.

3) Upper radiator hose - $15 on sale as above

4) Performer eps polished intake and 600 cfm Edelbrock car can be priced at www.summitracing.com which in my opinion has the best price, shipping cost and time and selection.

5) Labor on it was a great deal but generally they charge $65 an hour.

6) www.classicindustries.com and ebay has the best sources.

7) www.classiccarsprings.com got me my stock height coils and leafs. Good prices and products but they SUCK *** in customer service - they lost my leafs and it took a month to get them and I had to beg the owner for updates. PST has probably a better rep but they are pricey.

If you have any questions and want to give me a buzz - email me at normanatwater@earthlink.net

 

Interesting 1st Gen info here:

http://www.musclecarclub.com/musclec...istory-1.shtml


Stale: you list a "Saginaw M20" in your sig. These are two different trannys. If it's aluminum cased with 7 side cover bolts and the reverse lever on the tail housing, it's a Muncie (M20, M21 or M22). If it is iron cased w/reverse lever on side cover, it's a Saginaw.

 

Check this out...but hurry if you are buying....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2436012292

 

$12,000 and reserve still hasn't been met. (Plus I hate it when stripes get messed up like that. )

Keep looking. Maybe you'll get lucky like I did and find a jewel in the rough for less.

 

JG, I totally agree about the stripes... why do people do that...

 

First off, sorry about creating the small block war in here. Can't we dis on something else... like Ford 302s or Honda B blocks?

Get a clone. If you have a numbers matching car, and someone dings it in the parking lot, it's traumatizing. With the clone, it doesn't really matter as much. If you like shifting, get a manual for sure! I run an M20 4-speed in my '67, and I'm prolly going to swap it out for a T56 when I redo my whole drivetrain. I'm personally a BIG fan of manual transmissions.

The most important thing about your Camaro is whether you like it or not. Get what you want in it, it's your car.

 

That's the best advice yet.

My son and I are going to be turning his new "unplain Jane" into a clone. Its going to have a 69 cowl hood and 67 f/r spoilers. We're also having Z/28 stripes put on (the correct way... "I hope" ). Still its only a 327-210HP with a 3spd manual. Once the cosmetics are complete, it'll get a 4-bbl intake and Q-jet while I rebuild the original 327. (It's actually coming with 2 motors. ) Eventually the 3spd will get replaced by a 4 or 5 spd, and the 10-bolt converted to posi or swapped for a 12-bolt.

The only question left is... "what is it?" I suggested to my son (don't shoot me) to put some "SS" badges on it. While personally I'd rather make it a Z/28 clone (which means it should be badge-less) the younger generation is more impressed with "SS" and heck most SS "clones" now-a-days have Z/28 stripes anyway.

However, this will be his daily driver once I sell his 96 Mustang. So being that it is a clone, I won't be too worried about him driving it everyday. (My son doesn't have much luck with cars or police. )

 

Hah! Mine's totally badged up SS with the rally stripes. I think it looks good! If I'm approached and asked if it's numbers matching, of course I tell whoever asks, "No." I personally think it's cooler to go into the whole story of what's been swapped out and how you've customized this and that.

 

Jg, be careful with those spoilers. In '69 GM kept using the '67-8 spoilers on the rear, but they are about an inch and a half too narrow, so a few months later they came out with one specifically for a '69, so that it would meet flush with the edges of the 1/4 panels. Also the '69 front spoilers are a little different, but I don't think it's as noticable as the rear.

 

Yes, I know about the spoilers. Its a 67 so its getting the 67 spoiler. It just has a ZL2 hood (aka Cowl Induction) which was only available on the 69's.

 

Ohhh sorry, I skimmed through and saw the '69 and thought the CAR was a '69, not the hood.

 

Get a 1968 SS 350 10-15,000 Dollers (restored)
Holley Street Avenger Manifold, Carburetor Set
K&N Air Filter, X-Stream Air Filter Lid
Flowmaster 30 or 40 Series Muffler (LOUD!)
Baer Disc Brakes
Edelbrock Performer IAS Shocks
Holley Fuel Pumps
Fram Oil Filter
Above Are Cheaper Modifications But GOOOOOD!!!
(Manual) Hurst Richmond Five-Speed Street Tranny
Hooker Headers
Comp Cams Pro Magnum Rocker Arms
Comp Cams Magnum Pushrods
Crane Cams PowerMax Cam SB-Chevy
Fiberglass Body Peices Like Deck-Lid, Hood, Bumpers, and Fenders

Pretty AweSome Car But Expensive At Least 18-22,000 For Everything Above (Including Car)