Classic Engine Tech 1967 - 1981 Engine Related

anyone make a t56 swap kit for 2nd gens??

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Old Jun 21, 2004 | 12:28 AM
  #1  
93formula's Avatar
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anyone make a t56 swap kit for 2nd gens??

im swapping in a t56/lt1 from a donor car into my 79, just wondering if someone makes a kit for x member and whatever else ill need. i have the donor car at my disposal so any help would be appreciated.
Old Jun 21, 2004 | 03:04 AM
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there is a place that sells first gen T5 and T56 swap kits, and they also have T5 2nd gen kits, they might have some of the stuff you need for the T56 but I dont know, the website is www.keislerauto.com
Old Jun 21, 2004 | 01:14 PM
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Check out the second gen board www.nastyz28.com and do a search. You can mod your existing one fairly easily.
Old Jun 22, 2004 | 01:41 AM
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i did a search there, all i find are other posts of people telling others to do searches

that other site only sells the kits with the tranny, all i want is a x member, and whatever brackets id need. its a th350 car so i dont have pedals and what not.
Old Jun 22, 2004 | 03:27 AM
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Try contacting my friend Tyler @ ATS(American Touring Specialties)....

www.T56kit.com

I know he was in the process of making a x-member( I own an 81 Z, and have been bugging him about it religiously), and I believe he may already have a bracket for the LT1 style T56 master available....
Old Jun 22, 2004 | 06:55 AM
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Why do you even need a swap kit?

For the crossmember (I'm assuming you are currently TH-350)- drop the existing mounting pad 1.625", and the whole thing has to slide back on the subframe about 6". You can figure the exact when you put the engine/trans in the car. Drill holes in the subframe to mount it in the new location, and you are done.

The stick will come up in the front half of the hole in the auto console. You'll need to cut a hole in the floorboard for the stick. Cut a large enough hole to allow the whole "shiftbox" of the T56 to come up through.

I mounted the LT1 hydraulic master directly to the firewall, and used some large flat washers on the inside to prevent bolt pull-through. "They" said it wouldn't work, and wouldn't last, but nine years and nearly 50k miles (mostly city, lots of clutching) later, all the naysayers have strangely disappeared. I -might- consider using a bracket, but it seems the going rate for one is >$120. Uh, no thanks. I could design one, and get it fabbed locally for half that. But, I have no real need to.

Check the notes in the how-to section of my webpage.

For pedals, go to the boneyard and get a set from any 2nd gen.

Todd
Old Jun 23, 2004 | 03:26 AM
  #7  
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Originally posted by Todd80Z28
Why do you even need a swap kit?

For the crossmember (I'm assuming you are currently TH-350)- drop the existing mounting pad 1.625", and the whole thing has to slide back on the subframe about 6". You can figure the exact when you put the engine/trans in the car. Drill holes in the subframe to mount it in the new location, and you are done.

The stick will come up in the front half of the hole in the auto console. You'll need to cut a hole in the floorboard for the stick. Cut a large enough hole to allow the whole "shiftbox" of the T56 to come up through.

I mounted the LT1 hydraulic master directly to the firewall, and used some large flat washers on the inside to prevent bolt pull-through. "They" said it wouldn't work, and wouldn't last, but nine years and nearly 50k miles (mostly city, lots of clutching) later, all the naysayers have strangely disappeared. I -might- consider using a bracket, but it seems the going rate for one is >$120. Uh, no thanks. I could design one, and get it fabbed locally for half that. But, I have no real need to.

Check the notes in the how-to section of my webpage.

For pedals, go to the boneyard and get a set from any 2nd gen.




Todd
well i dont want to mod the current one cause i want the t56 to sit properly, i dont want the angle to be off or it can damamge the tail shaft. when you say drop the existing pad 1.625" is it to 1.625" or by 1.625"? and how exactly will i get the measurements correct? and when i drill through the subframe will i need to tap it for the bolts or do i need to use nuts?

and for cutting the floor board, how much do i need to cut it by? by how many inches back, forward, and side to side?
Old Jun 23, 2004 | 07:09 AM
  #8  
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by 1.625"? and how exactly will i get the measurements correct? and when i drill through the subframe will i need to tap it for the bolts or do i need to use nuts?

and for cutting the floor board, how much do i need to cut it by? by how many inches back, forward, and side to side?
The trans mount pad needs to be 1.625" lower than it currently is on the crossmember.

Drill holes in the subframe just like the current ones. They are just holes, and the crossmember is held on with nuts and bolts.

Cut the floor board after you put the engine/trans in. As you jack up the back of the trans, you'll see where it's going to come through the floor. Make a small hole for the stick, then mark and cut the larger hole once you can get the trans up to close to its height.

It's not that hard. To be honest, if this is going to give you fits, you are never going to get the LT1 stuff handled, as adapting fuel injection is much more difficult.
Old Jun 25, 2004 | 01:40 AM
  #9  
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thanks, but ill find the lt1 much easier, ill have a local lt1 guru helping me with that, and im using dfi so the ecm will be plug and play. my only worries for the are the fuel pump and fuel lines.
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