anyone make a t56 swap kit for 2nd gens??
anyone make a t56 swap kit for 2nd gens??
im swapping in a t56/lt1 from a donor car into my 79, just wondering if someone makes a kit for x member and whatever else ill need. i have the donor car at my disposal so any help would be appreciated.
there is a place that sells first gen T5 and T56 swap kits, and they also have T5 2nd gen kits, they might have some of the stuff you need for the T56 but I dont know, the website is www.keislerauto.com
Check out the second gen board www.nastyz28.com and do a search. You can mod your existing one fairly easily.
i did a search there, all i find are other posts of people telling others to do searches
that other site only sells the kits with the tranny, all i want is a x member, and whatever brackets id need. its a th350 car so i dont have pedals and what not.
that other site only sells the kits with the tranny, all i want is a x member, and whatever brackets id need. its a th350 car so i dont have pedals and what not.
Try contacting my friend Tyler @ ATS(American Touring Specialties)....
www.T56kit.com
I know he was in the process of making a x-member( I own an 81 Z, and have been bugging him about it religiously), and I believe he may already have a bracket for the LT1 style T56 master available....
www.T56kit.com
I know he was in the process of making a x-member( I own an 81 Z, and have been bugging him about it religiously), and I believe he may already have a bracket for the LT1 style T56 master available....
Why do you even need a swap kit?
For the crossmember (I'm assuming you are currently TH-350)- drop the existing mounting pad 1.625", and the whole thing has to slide back on the subframe about 6". You can figure the exact when you put the engine/trans in the car. Drill holes in the subframe to mount it in the new location, and you are done.
The stick will come up in the front half of the hole in the auto console. You'll need to cut a hole in the floorboard for the stick. Cut a large enough hole to allow the whole "shiftbox" of the T56 to come up through.
I mounted the LT1 hydraulic master directly to the firewall, and used some large flat washers on the inside to prevent bolt pull-through. "They" said it wouldn't work, and wouldn't last, but nine years and nearly 50k miles (mostly city, lots of clutching) later, all the naysayers have strangely disappeared.
I -might- consider using a bracket, but it seems the going rate for one is >$120. Uh, no thanks. I could design one, and get it fabbed locally for half that. But, I have no real need to.
Check the notes in the how-to section of my webpage.
For pedals, go to the boneyard and get a set from any 2nd gen.
Todd
For the crossmember (I'm assuming you are currently TH-350)- drop the existing mounting pad 1.625", and the whole thing has to slide back on the subframe about 6". You can figure the exact when you put the engine/trans in the car. Drill holes in the subframe to mount it in the new location, and you are done.
The stick will come up in the front half of the hole in the auto console. You'll need to cut a hole in the floorboard for the stick. Cut a large enough hole to allow the whole "shiftbox" of the T56 to come up through.
I mounted the LT1 hydraulic master directly to the firewall, and used some large flat washers on the inside to prevent bolt pull-through. "They" said it wouldn't work, and wouldn't last, but nine years and nearly 50k miles (mostly city, lots of clutching) later, all the naysayers have strangely disappeared.
I -might- consider using a bracket, but it seems the going rate for one is >$120. Uh, no thanks. I could design one, and get it fabbed locally for half that. But, I have no real need to.Check the notes in the how-to section of my webpage.
For pedals, go to the boneyard and get a set from any 2nd gen.
Todd
Originally posted by Todd80Z28
Why do you even need a swap kit?
For the crossmember (I'm assuming you are currently TH-350)- drop the existing mounting pad 1.625", and the whole thing has to slide back on the subframe about 6". You can figure the exact when you put the engine/trans in the car. Drill holes in the subframe to mount it in the new location, and you are done.
The stick will come up in the front half of the hole in the auto console. You'll need to cut a hole in the floorboard for the stick. Cut a large enough hole to allow the whole "shiftbox" of the T56 to come up through.
I mounted the LT1 hydraulic master directly to the firewall, and used some large flat washers on the inside to prevent bolt pull-through. "They" said it wouldn't work, and wouldn't last, but nine years and nearly 50k miles (mostly city, lots of clutching) later, all the naysayers have strangely disappeared. I -might- consider using a bracket, but it seems the going rate for one is >$120. Uh, no thanks. I could design one, and get it fabbed locally for half that. But, I have no real need to.
Check the notes in the how-to section of my webpage.
For pedals, go to the boneyard and get a set from any 2nd gen.
Todd
Why do you even need a swap kit?
For the crossmember (I'm assuming you are currently TH-350)- drop the existing mounting pad 1.625", and the whole thing has to slide back on the subframe about 6". You can figure the exact when you put the engine/trans in the car. Drill holes in the subframe to mount it in the new location, and you are done.
The stick will come up in the front half of the hole in the auto console. You'll need to cut a hole in the floorboard for the stick. Cut a large enough hole to allow the whole "shiftbox" of the T56 to come up through.
I mounted the LT1 hydraulic master directly to the firewall, and used some large flat washers on the inside to prevent bolt pull-through. "They" said it wouldn't work, and wouldn't last, but nine years and nearly 50k miles (mostly city, lots of clutching) later, all the naysayers have strangely disappeared. I -might- consider using a bracket, but it seems the going rate for one is >$120. Uh, no thanks. I could design one, and get it fabbed locally for half that. But, I have no real need to.
Check the notes in the how-to section of my webpage.
For pedals, go to the boneyard and get a set from any 2nd gen.
Todd
and for cutting the floor board, how much do i need to cut it by? by how many inches back, forward, and side to side?
by 1.625"? and how exactly will i get the measurements correct? and when i drill through the subframe will i need to tap it for the bolts or do i need to use nuts?
and for cutting the floor board, how much do i need to cut it by? by how many inches back, forward, and side to side?
and for cutting the floor board, how much do i need to cut it by? by how many inches back, forward, and side to side?
Drill holes in the subframe just like the current ones. They are just holes, and the crossmember is held on with nuts and bolts.
Cut the floor board after you put the engine/trans in. As you jack up the back of the trans, you'll see where it's going to come through the floor. Make a small hole for the stick, then mark and cut the larger hole once you can get the trans up to close to its height.
It's not that hard. To be honest, if this is going to give you fits, you are never going to get the LT1 stuff handled, as adapting fuel injection is much more difficult.
thanks, but ill find the lt1 much easier, ill have a local lt1 guru helping me with that, and im using dfi so the ecm will be plug and play. my only worries for the are the fuel pump and fuel lines.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM
chevroletfreak
LT1 Based Engine Tech
202
Jul 4, 2005 05:00 PM



