Classic Engine Tech 1967 - 1981 Engine Related

425 HP, 355 CID, Short Block

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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 04:38 PM
  #1  
Zero_to_69's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 655
425 HP, 355 CID, Short Block

**Oops, make that a long block! **

Hello All,

I had a bad run with my motor last week sending two connecting
rods through the block.

Long story short, it was an old used motor (I'm the 3rd owner)
and it was beat on for at least 12 years.

Parts List:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Customer_Ri...Camaro_Z28.htm
Dyno Results:
http://members.rogers.com/tdese739/dynograph.jpg


I'm not sure if my engine broke because of age and fatigue, or
if the parts used were just too weak for the power it was making.

My question is, for my next rebuild (happening next week) should
I be looking into forged crank/rods, or am I safe with CI components?

The motor I am looking to drop in has the following:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Specials_May03.htm

It's not forged interals, but it seems pretty good otherwise.
- 4 bolt main
- weight balanced (rods and pistons)
- hydraulic flat tappet lifters and camshaft inc.
- 67 cc heads ported/polished, 3 angle valve job, springs good for 0.500" valve lift.
- chrome-molly piston rings
- ARP stud kit connecting rods and heads
- 11:1 mechanical compression ratio
- 5.7" GM connecting rods
- cast crank and rods
- fully assembled (includes dyno sheets)

Thanks for any input.
Old Jun 25, 2003 | 06:34 PM
  #2  
12Second3rdgen's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 584
Re: 425 HP, 355 CID, Short Block

Originally posted by Zero_to_69
**Oops, make that a long block! **

Hello All,

I had a bad run with my motor last week sending two connecting
rods through the block.

Long story short, it was an old used motor (I'm the 3rd owner)
and it was beat on for at least 12 years.

Parts List:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Customer_Ri...Camaro_Z28.htm
Dyno Results:
http://members.rogers.com/tdese739/dynograph.jpg


I'm not sure if my engine broke because of age and fatigue, or
if the parts used were just too weak for the power it was making.

My question is, for my next rebuild (happening next week) should
I be looking into forged crank/rods, or am I safe with CI components?

The motor I am looking to drop in has the following:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Specials_May03.htm

It's not forged interals, but it seems pretty good otherwise.
- 4 bolt main
- weight balanced (rods and pistons)
- hydraulic flat tappet lifters and camshaft inc.
- 67 cc heads ported/polished, 3 angle valve job, springs good for 0.500" valve lift.
- chrome-molly piston rings
- ARP stud kit connecting rods and heads
- 11:1 mechanical compression ratio
- 5.7" GM connecting rods
- cast crank and rods
- fully assembled (includes dyno sheets)

Thanks for any input.
What do you shift at? Are the GM connecting rods the PM powdered rods? What cam are you running? If you are shifting in the neighborhood of 6k and under, you should be safe with non forged components (although that is quite a bit of compression). I would make sure that the motor comes with forged pistons just to be safe. If you plan on running 11:1 compression, you will have problems running pump gas on a cast iron head without detonation. An enormous cam would help bleed off excess cylinder pressure, but it doesnt look like you are a running too radical a cam. I would be weary of that much compression without running race gas.
Old Jun 25, 2003 | 07:56 PM
  #3  
kmook's Avatar
Advanced Tech Moderator
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,262
From: Nashville
General parts advise should be posted in another forum. Moving to classic tech.

Thank you.
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 09:01 AM
  #4  
Todd80Z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 439
From: Northern VA
11:1 on an iron-head motor for the street? I wouldn't do it.

How about the HT383 from Chevy? Only about a grand more, and you're getting much nicer stuff. Put a slightly bigger cam in it, and you've got a perfectly streetable, well-behaved 400+hp 383.

Todd
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