425 HP, 355 CID, Short Block
425 HP, 355 CID, Short Block
**Oops, make that a long block!
**
Hello All,
I had a bad run with my motor last week sending two connecting
rods through the block.
Long story short, it was an old used motor (I'm the 3rd owner)
and it was beat on for at least 12 years.
Parts List:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Customer_Ri...Camaro_Z28.htm
Dyno Results:
http://members.rogers.com/tdese739/dynograph.jpg
I'm not sure if my engine broke because of age and fatigue, or
if the parts used were just too weak for the power it was making.
My question is, for my next rebuild (happening next week) should
I be looking into forged crank/rods, or am I safe with CI components?
The motor I am looking to drop in has the following:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Specials_May03.htm
It's not forged interals, but it seems pretty good otherwise.
- 4 bolt main
- weight balanced (rods and pistons)
- hydraulic flat tappet lifters and camshaft inc.
- 67 cc heads ported/polished, 3 angle valve job, springs good for 0.500" valve lift.
- chrome-molly piston rings
- ARP stud kit connecting rods and heads
- 11:1 mechanical compression ratio
- 5.7" GM connecting rods
- cast crank and rods
- fully assembled (includes dyno sheets)
Thanks for any input.
**Hello All,
I had a bad run with my motor last week sending two connecting
rods through the block.

Long story short, it was an old used motor (I'm the 3rd owner)
and it was beat on for at least 12 years.
Parts List:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Customer_Ri...Camaro_Z28.htm
Dyno Results:
http://members.rogers.com/tdese739/dynograph.jpg
I'm not sure if my engine broke because of age and fatigue, or
if the parts used were just too weak for the power it was making.
My question is, for my next rebuild (happening next week) should
I be looking into forged crank/rods, or am I safe with CI components?
The motor I am looking to drop in has the following:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Specials_May03.htm
It's not forged interals, but it seems pretty good otherwise.
- 4 bolt main
- weight balanced (rods and pistons)
- hydraulic flat tappet lifters and camshaft inc.
- 67 cc heads ported/polished, 3 angle valve job, springs good for 0.500" valve lift.
- chrome-molly piston rings
- ARP stud kit connecting rods and heads
- 11:1 mechanical compression ratio
- 5.7" GM connecting rods
- cast crank and rods
- fully assembled (includes dyno sheets)
Thanks for any input.
Re: 425 HP, 355 CID, Short Block
Originally posted by Zero_to_69
**Oops, make that a long block!
**
Hello All,
I had a bad run with my motor last week sending two connecting
rods through the block.
Long story short, it was an old used motor (I'm the 3rd owner)
and it was beat on for at least 12 years.
Parts List:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Customer_Ri...Camaro_Z28.htm
Dyno Results:
http://members.rogers.com/tdese739/dynograph.jpg
I'm not sure if my engine broke because of age and fatigue, or
if the parts used were just too weak for the power it was making.
My question is, for my next rebuild (happening next week) should
I be looking into forged crank/rods, or am I safe with CI components?
The motor I am looking to drop in has the following:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Specials_May03.htm
It's not forged interals, but it seems pretty good otherwise.
- 4 bolt main
- weight balanced (rods and pistons)
- hydraulic flat tappet lifters and camshaft inc.
- 67 cc heads ported/polished, 3 angle valve job, springs good for 0.500" valve lift.
- chrome-molly piston rings
- ARP stud kit connecting rods and heads
- 11:1 mechanical compression ratio
- 5.7" GM connecting rods
- cast crank and rods
- fully assembled (includes dyno sheets)
Thanks for any input.
**Oops, make that a long block!
**Hello All,
I had a bad run with my motor last week sending two connecting
rods through the block.

Long story short, it was an old used motor (I'm the 3rd owner)
and it was beat on for at least 12 years.
Parts List:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Customer_Ri...Camaro_Z28.htm
Dyno Results:
http://members.rogers.com/tdese739/dynograph.jpg
I'm not sure if my engine broke because of age and fatigue, or
if the parts used were just too weak for the power it was making.
My question is, for my next rebuild (happening next week) should
I be looking into forged crank/rods, or am I safe with CI components?
The motor I am looking to drop in has the following:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Specials_May03.htm
It's not forged interals, but it seems pretty good otherwise.
- 4 bolt main
- weight balanced (rods and pistons)
- hydraulic flat tappet lifters and camshaft inc.
- 67 cc heads ported/polished, 3 angle valve job, springs good for 0.500" valve lift.
- chrome-molly piston rings
- ARP stud kit connecting rods and heads
- 11:1 mechanical compression ratio
- 5.7" GM connecting rods
- cast crank and rods
- fully assembled (includes dyno sheets)
Thanks for any input.
11:1 on an iron-head motor for the street? I wouldn't do it.
How about the HT383 from Chevy? Only about a grand more, and you're getting much nicer stuff. Put a slightly bigger cam in it, and you've got a perfectly streetable, well-behaved 400+hp 383.
Todd
How about the HT383 from Chevy? Only about a grand more, and you're getting much nicer stuff. Put a slightly bigger cam in it, and you've got a perfectly streetable, well-behaved 400+hp 383.
Todd
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