im gonna start to build a 383 stroker motor for my 69 Camaro. i wanted to know what kind of block is go to go with, i was looking to make 425-500 HP out of this motor

 

Here is a good place to start if you don't want to build one....

http://www.shafiroff.com/355_shortblock.asp

Or look at the GMPP 383 short block.

Getting a short block that you need and starting from there is a great way to make a durable motor. Remember the heads/cam/valvetrain/intake make all the power the bottom end just holds it.

Bret

 

This really should be discussed in Classic Engine Tech, transferring.

Thanks

 

If you mean "block" literally, you don't need an exotic block for that power level. There are a lot of tricks and tips to selecting a good "heat cycled" (aka "used") block which I can go through if you want. But basically, you are looking for a 350 that has not been bored, does not have any major scratches or ridging on the bores and has no cracks or other defects and has all the main caps, preferably 4-bolt. The question of 2-piece v. 1-piece rear main seal used to be more of an issue than it is now. Formerly, there was a much better selection of 2-piece stroker cranks, now 1-piece cranks are also plentiful. Or, you can buy a new block for <$700 if you want to go that route. The blocks with 2-pc rear mains are cheaper, just a bit over $600 typically.

These both have 4-bolt main caps.
PN 10066034 SB Chevrolet 350 Cast Iron 2-Piece Rear Seal Production Cylinder Block
PN 10105123 SB Chevrolet 350 Cast Iron 1-Piece Rear Seal Production Cylinder Block

Rich

 

The 383 I used to have in my '81 was built with the good 'ol "3970010" block, with 4-bolt mains. However, we still have a 350 block (same casting #) that's only a 2-bolt block, and I wouldn't hesitate to build a stroker out of that. Well, application depending, obviously, but for a street/strip car, I'd use it in a heart-beat.

425 ~ 500 HP shouldn't be over-doing it for any small block. If you start getting into running nitrous or forced induction where you're putting a lot of extra stress on the motor, then you should insist on a 4-bolt block, or get 4-bolt mains installed on a 2-bolt block (apparently "splayed" mains are the strongest, most rigid type).

 

ya i was think about going with a short block also but my price range is not to high right now. My price range is just about $1000 so i wanted to buy mainly just a block for now then build it up from there. im not looking to get this motor done soon because i am only 17 right now i just want to learn the motor work as i build it. My cousin knows how to do build motors so he will be helping me along the way so i just want to start with the block. Thanks for the info guys

 

I'm using a regular old, been rebuilt twice, 70-76 4 bolt main 350 block for my buildup. I've sunk about $1500 into it so far and have a rotating bottom end. I was just about to post pics here in Classic Engine Tech, so look for my thread in 5 minutes.

 

i checked out your pics, coming along nice, i cant wait to i get there but it might take longer cause like i said im only 17 still in high school with a ****ty job but soon enough it will come along

 

i was wondering, does the block need anything done to it before i start this build?

 

would it be better to go with a 1-Piece Rear Main Seal, or a 2-Piece Rear Main Seal and what are the differences on them?

 

Try midwestmotorsportsinc.com I have used their motors and motor kits for circle track racing. Never had a problem yet. Decent prices too.

 

If you only have a thousand to start with, maybe you ought to stick with looking for a used stroker shortblock. I once found one for $300 that came with a cast crank, external balance, and 5.565" rods. It was probably a good basis for 425 HP. However, project creep took over and now I have $7K spent on that formerly $300 engine. Be careful of that slippery slope called project creep. Set your goal and STICK IT OUT.

 

It takes more skill and knowledge to build a decent motor sheap than if you have a lot of $$$ to put into it. You seem like you are learning about motors. In that case, get some books on the subject and buy your self a complete shortblock. Tear it apart, clean, inspect, and measure everything. Then put it back together replacing what it's necessary to replace. Then get a set of heads and do the same thing! And so on.

Rich

 

ok thanks ill find some books to read up on so thanks for the info guys you really helped me a lot, but i still want to know what the difference is on the 1-Piece Rear Main Seal, and 2-Piece Rear Main Seal, and what would be a better one to go with?

 

the 2 piece was found on the 86-older blocks and the 1 piece is foudn on the newer 87-up blocks (someone correct me if i have them mixed up) im not sure about either one of them being better then the other, from what i hear they are both equal, havent heard anything bad about either of them. about the 2 bolt mains: my buddy has a 350 with 2 bolt mains, punched .30 over, so 355, we slapped on AFR 195cc heads, comp cams mag. 270hr cam, comp HR lifters, hooker headers, 2 1/2 inch flowmasters that dump under the rear seat, he's puttin out a good amount of power. we havent had it dyno'd yet, but my desktop dyno says in the 400 range, i dont know how true this is. and we havent had any problems with the block yet. 4 bolt mains are really only necessary when excessive strain is going to be put on the engine, other then that you should be able to get away with a 2 bolt main.