Woohoo! Total noob asking for help!
well that simplifies things a lot! I made a post on another thread and have gotten a couple PMs then lately, all regarding Bose and just finished replacing my brother's Bose system so my mind has just been stuck on that crap.
He wouldn't - I was thinking in terms of the monsoon/bose (stock has components in front, "subs" in rear sails, and full range in hatch --> total of 8 speakers if you count the components as 4 total)
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 11, 2007 at 01:57 AM.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dDcgJXb...00&I=1086012SI
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dDcgJXb...=400&s=0&cc=01
Those would be my two choices for the front four speakers.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dDcgJXb...=400&s=0&cc=01
Those would be my two choices for the front four speakers.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dDcgJXb...20&I=575P112S4
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dDcgJXb...20&I=575P210D4
You can get those subs and have someone local build you a box.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dDcgJXb...20&I=575P210D4
You can get those subs and have someone local build you a box.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dDcgJXb...120&I=108R311A
That's one of the amps I found as well. I really don't know much about amps at all, so you can ask around about what brands and all are the best and how much you need for the sub you get.
That's one of the amps I found as well. I really don't know much about amps at all, so you can ask around about what brands and all are the best and how much you need for the sub you get.
The subs up there max out at 250 watts RMS for the 10" and 150 watts RMS for the 12".... this is because both subs are DVC and can be wired in parallel, making a 2 Ohm impedance, and the amp up there performs best at 2 Ohm impedances (312 at 2 Ohms). This is not bad however - since the gain on the amp can be adjusted. But you CAN match continuous (RMS) powers without distortion.....the RMS rating is given at BELOW the distortion level...
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Also, that would be a significant amount of bass (more than the average person needs)...if you aren't looking for that much, look into 4channel amps for about the same price, and maybe a lower power rating on the sub -- and then you can clean up your front speakers as well as power the sub. This also would get you the most out of your money IMO - because it wouldn't be hard to get the power the 10" sub above (or less power, depending on how much) and a 4ch amp for around the same price (or less).
Just curious though, how much do custom built enclosures cost? Say for example, just a .75 cubic ft. enclosure for a hatch area?
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 11, 2007 at 03:37 AM.
OK...this is the post I missed, so ignore any post of mine that contains the word Bose/Monsoon
------------------------
When I say doors and rear, I mean the two on both the passanger and driver side doors, and the rears refer to the one that make your buddy go deaf when he sits in the back seat because it's right next to his ear
The one next to the rear seats. The camaro I have doesn't have the speaker at the back of the truck like some cars do. I only have 4 speakers all around I believe.
Yea...sorry - I was thinking of the 8 speaker setup.
Coaxials you may know better as "full range", as opposed to separate component speakers.
These pics will help you see the difference (though there are coax speakers that are actually separate components):
COAXIAL -->
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-vumZtfb...&i=065SX65#Tab
COMPONENTS -->
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fpy9cmi...10&I=107SR6500
---
And I am looking for a sub that really can work off the factory amp, but is there any benefit to having an aftermarket amp installed in the car since you said it's not really that difficult? is there any benefit to having an aftermarket amp installed in the car since you said it's not really that difficult? [/QUOTE]
Sorry - no factory amp.. once again, I didn't read. Yes - there is always benefit to aftermarket amps - more power will allow your speakers to play generally louder and more importantly cleaner than "any" head unit can.
Sorry before that post I didn't realized it had been installed already - and after the post I thought that too because I didn't read it. Unless it's really old/odd it should be easy to add an amp to it....if there are no preamp outs, it's no problem either really would just be easier for ya and for us to tell you what you need knowing this.
------------------------
When I say doors and rear, I mean the two on both the passanger and driver side doors, and the rears refer to the one that make your buddy go deaf when he sits in the back seat because it's right next to his ear
The one next to the rear seats. The camaro I have doesn't have the speaker at the back of the truck like some cars do. I only have 4 speakers all around I believe.Coaxials you may know better as "full range", as opposed to separate component speakers.
These pics will help you see the difference (though there are coax speakers that are actually separate components):
COAXIAL -->
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-vumZtfb...&i=065SX65#Tab
COMPONENTS -->
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fpy9cmi...10&I=107SR6500
---
And I am looking for a sub that really can work off the factory amp, but is there any benefit to having an aftermarket amp installed in the car since you said it's not really that difficult? is there any benefit to having an aftermarket amp installed in the car since you said it's not really that difficult? [/QUOTE]
Sorry - no factory amp.. once again, I didn't read. Yes - there is always benefit to aftermarket amps - more power will allow your speakers to play generally louder and more importantly cleaner than "any" head unit can.
Sorry before that post I didn't realized it had been installed already - and after the post I thought that too because I didn't read it. Unless it's really old/odd it should be easy to add an amp to it....if there are no preamp outs, it's no problem either really would just be easier for ya and for us to tell you what you need knowing this.
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 11, 2007 at 07:28 AM.
Best sound for a buck on such a tight budget will give you:
- GOOD COMPONENTS in front (Alpine Type-R, Eclipse, Boston Acoustics $150)
- ditch rears completely , or put some cheap-*** coaxials there
- 10" sub in driver-side stealth box (~ $150 off ebay)
- 2 amps: One 2 or 4 (if you go with rears) channel and mono. (my suggestion - look at ebay for MTX - can't beat their value). Get a D-class for a subwoofer.
- Do a lot of reading, to save a lot you'll be doing all wiring yourself
Good luck!
- GOOD COMPONENTS in front (Alpine Type-R, Eclipse, Boston Acoustics $150)
- ditch rears completely , or put some cheap-*** coaxials there
- 10" sub in driver-side stealth box (~ $150 off ebay)
- 2 amps: One 2 or 4 (if you go with rears) channel and mono. (my suggestion - look at ebay for MTX - can't beat their value). Get a D-class for a subwoofer.
- Do a lot of reading, to save a lot you'll be doing all wiring yourself
Good luck!
Best sound for a buck on such a tight budget will give you:
- GOOD COMPONENTS in front (Alpine Type-R, Eclipse, Boston Acoustics $150)
- ditch rears completely , or put some cheap-*** coaxials there
- 10" sub in driver-side stealth box (~ $150 off ebay)
- 2 amps: One 2 or 4 (if you go with rears) channel and mono. (my suggestion - look at ebay for MTX - can't beat their value). Get a D-class for a subwoofer.
- Do a lot of reading, to save a lot you'll be doing all wiring yourself
Good luck!
- GOOD COMPONENTS in front (Alpine Type-R, Eclipse, Boston Acoustics $150)
- ditch rears completely , or put some cheap-*** coaxials there
- 10" sub in driver-side stealth box (~ $150 off ebay)
- 2 amps: One 2 or 4 (if you go with rears) channel and mono. (my suggestion - look at ebay for MTX - can't beat their value). Get a D-class for a subwoofer.
- Do a lot of reading, to save a lot you'll be doing all wiring yourself
Good luck!
lol not sure how thats for someone on a budget....doesn't appear he wants that much bass, and a smaller sub better suited for the stealth box especially.... I say stealth box, components up front, cheap coaxials if you REALLY want them (I would block out hi freqs there)....then power the rear sails from the HU, and the components and the sub from a 4ch amp
Can be found even cheaper, used, on ebay or "for sale" sections on boards.Components and a sub will work fine from 4-channel amp, however getting a separate Class-D for a sub will give more flexibility and will be much more reliable solution, as bridged and abused (with bass that can be easy) A/B class is prone to damage. There also a lot of hybrid amps A/B channels + D channel in one case, like MTX Thunder 4405, for example.
$150 - sub with the box
Can be found even cheaper, used, on ebay or "for sale" sections on boards.
Components and a sub will work fine from 4-channel amp, however getting a separate Class-D for a sub will give more flexibility and will be much more reliable solution, as bridged and abused (with bass that can be easy) A/B class is prone to damage. There also a lot of hybrid amps A/B channels + D channel in one case, like MTX Thunder 4405, for example.
Can be found even cheaper, used, on ebay or "for sale" sections on boards.Components and a sub will work fine from 4-channel amp, however getting a separate Class-D for a sub will give more flexibility and will be much more reliable solution, as bridged and abused (with bass that can be easy) A/B class is prone to damage. There also a lot of hybrid amps A/B channels + D channel in one case, like MTX Thunder 4405, for example.
$150 sub with the box IMO is not budget.....with that money you can get a really nice sub for around $100 then a box for $25-50 depending on size (or make one), and destroy the stealth box setup.. you pay too much for the custom box IMO..
EDIT: I guess it depends if you are trying to spend the full $400 or as little as possible.
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 12, 2007 at 08:01 AM.
It can be replaced or upgraded later independently from other system, and amp for heights can be upgraded/replaced independently too
Also, having two amps (full range and bass) with two different internal power supplies is better because of a different patterns of power usage. Fast discharge of internal Pulse-Width modulated power supply capacitors, when bass hits, affects power output and THD of full-range part. And no matter if you wired it with Gauge 0 wire
- internal power supply FET's have not equal to zero Rds(on). Bottom line - whole system will sound better.
As far as class-D goes, on low frequencies they have THD, better then most of A/B class have (for example JL 500/1 - THD<0.05% @4Ohm 500W RMS), S/N Ratio well over 90db. So they are not producing more distortion on low frequencies at all.
Making a sub box yourself = total respect, when done right will save a lot of $$$ and will sound great.
Also, having two amps (full range and bass) with two different internal power supplies is better because of a different patterns of power usage. Fast discharge of internal Pulse-Width modulated power supply capacitors, when bass hits, affects power output and THD of full-range part. And no matter if you wired it with Gauge 0 wire
- internal power supply FET's have not equal to zero Rds(on). Bottom line - whole system will sound better.As far as class-D goes, on low frequencies they have THD, better then most of A/B class have (for example JL 500/1 - THD<0.05% @4Ohm 500W RMS), S/N Ratio well over 90db. So they are not producing more distortion on low frequencies at all.
Making a sub box yourself = total respect, when done right will save a lot of $$$ and will sound great.
Check here
http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
I have the driver side stealth box with the Elemental Design 11kv2. It sounds great! And is a lot cheaper than that MTX box!!!
http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
I have the driver side stealth box with the Elemental Design 11kv2. It sounds great! And is a lot cheaper than that MTX box!!!
Coaxials you may know better as "full range", as opposed to separate component speakers.
These pics will help you see the difference (though there are coax speakers that are actually separate components):
COAXIAL -->
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-vumZtfb...&i=065SX65#Tab
COMPONENTS -->
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fpy9cmi...10&I=107SR6500
---
Wow, will those co-axials bolt up to both the doors and the rear seat speakers?
Check here
http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
I have the driver side stealth box with the Elemental Design 11kv2. It sounds great! And is a lot cheaper than that MTX box!!!
http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
I have the driver side stealth box with the Elemental Design 11kv2. It sounds great! And is a lot cheaper than that MTX box!!!
But is this too much bass? I said I didn't really need too much over stock, just some moderate pieces
It can be replaced or upgraded later independently from other system, and amp for heights can be upgraded/replaced independently too
Also, having two amps (full range and bass) with two different internal power supplies is better because of a different patterns of power usage. Fast discharge of internal Pulse-Width modulated power supply capacitors, when bass hits, affects power output and THD of full-range part. And no matter if you wired it with Gauge 0 wire
- internal power supply FET's have not equal to zero Rds(on). Bottom line - whole system will sound better.
As far as class-D goes, on low frequencies they have THD, better then most of A/B class have (for example JL 500/1 - THD<0.05% @4Ohm 500W RMS), S/N Ratio well over 90db. So they are not producing more distortion on low frequencies at all.
Making a sub box yourself = total respect, when done right will save a lot of $$$ and will sound great.
Also, having two amps (full range and bass) with two different internal power supplies is better because of a different patterns of power usage. Fast discharge of internal Pulse-Width modulated power supply capacitors, when bass hits, affects power output and THD of full-range part. And no matter if you wired it with Gauge 0 wire
- internal power supply FET's have not equal to zero Rds(on). Bottom line - whole system will sound better.As far as class-D goes, on low frequencies they have THD, better then most of A/B class have (for example JL 500/1 - THD<0.05% @4Ohm 500W RMS), S/N Ratio well over 90db. So they are not producing more distortion on low frequencies at all.
Making a sub box yourself = total respect, when done right will save a lot of $$$ and will sound great.
My point was that he is A) on a budget and B) not looking for large amounts of bass. Because of that, not much need for a class D mono amp that can only be used on subs. And yes, they produce more distortion in general...you just cannot hear/detect it as well at lower frequencies (which is fine, they were designed more for efficiency/faster transistor response - not perfect clarity that is unnecessary for low freqs).....so as far as being flexible with his current system.... nothing he can do.
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 12, 2007 at 10:27 AM.
Yes - but I wouldn't recommend THOSE specifically because they are expensive and would be a waste if you aren't amping them separately. I basically just linked the 2 most expensive sets of speakers up there....notice the $750 components..lol You can get good quality speakers from $35 up if you don't shop Crutchfield.
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