JJJ93z

i started my car today and no subs , so i check my remote wire, fuses on amp are alright then pop the hood and its the big fuse under there. i think its a 50 amp , whichever comes with 10gauge RF wiring kit. so i go get a 60 amp bc thats all they had and put it in and turn my car on and the sub is hitting wierd, like a buzzing noise kind of . (pretty sure sub is not blown) its only 2 months old. the amp is kenwood 800watt. , then a few moments it stopped and both the 30 watt fuses blew on my amp. so i put new ones in and they blew again. i also have a 1 farad cap . everything is grounded properly. what else would cause this to happen? both my amp and my sub 10" type R are brand new. also what would cause the power cable fuse to blow too? i have had a system in my car for a couple years now and it has never happened before. thanks

Javelin3o4

We had the same issue on a car at work, checked the wiring eveything looked ok but it kept blowing fuses, we ended up running a heavier gauge wire. I would run atleast 8 gauge wire, 10 just seems to small for 800watt. Other than that check the wiring again. With all the fuses replaced and the radio off. Take a DMM and check the volatage before and after the inline fuse, then work your way back to the amp checking the wire every few inches or so, its possible that there might be a break in the wire somewhere.

97FormulaWS-6

Uhm.... that 10Ga is a serious issue and is DEFENETLY undersized....

I'd say you need atleast 8ga, and would recommend a 4Ga...

you can get them cheaply from ikesound.com or knukonceptz.com

JJJ93z

Thanks for the quick replies. i took a voltage tester and i have power before and after the inline fuse, all the way back to my cap and all the way up the the amp, The system i had before only had a 300 watt alpine V12 amp in it so thats why i had 10 gauge. 97FormulaWS-6 what size guage are you running? thanks for the sites.

97FormulaWS-6

My Current setup is ~ 2kW...

200 amp Isolator/relay
200 amp circuit breaker
2 1 Farad Caps
1 Kicker KX600.4 (400Wrms) 80 amp fused
1 Audiobahn A2200HCX (1600Wrms) 120 amp fused
Kicker S12L7 subs
Audiobahn 6.5" Midbass
Inifinity Kappa Co-axial fronts
Alpine CDA-7894 HU
200 amp alternator
2Ga wiring on everything up front and to the Caps. From the Caps it goes to 4Ga to the amps

I'm upgrading the system to ~3.5kW, going to 0Ga wire to the back dist. block I'm adding, and then 4Ga to all the caps/amps. I'm removing the isolator and CB and replacing it with a single 300amp fuse.

New Equipment:

2 Adire Audio 10" Brahma MKII
2 Hifonics Brutus BX1500D (1.5kW rms each)

JJJ93z

alright, checked all of my wires and i have a good connection. i pulled my type R and hooked up my old JL, put new amp fuses in and it worked fine, i hooked up my type r and it was blown. (it didnt pound , just gargled) wouldnt this have caused the amp fuses to blow? i have a 1 year warranty on it. but i was wondering what 10 DVC sub can handle over 300 watts RMS? it has to be a 2 + 2 ohn b/c im using a 2 channel amp. thanks for all the help

97FormulaWS-6

You can bridge that amp to mono and wire in a 4 ohm SVC sub...

Blowing a speaker won't always pop a fuse... it depends on how the motor of the speaker failed.

Those Alpine subs I've heard good things about actually...

and 300Wrms for a subwoofer is a VERY easy find...

JJJ93z

The Type r that i have i ran it in series and bridged it (to achieve 4 ohms) and its rated at 300 Rms, i just looked at the owners manual, i too have heard great things about them , and have believe that til now! how about an audiobhaun sub? do they make good stuff?

edit: just looked at specs on amp and it said max outpuut is 450 watts rms 4ohm bridged. so thats prolly why i blew the sub out. but my gain wasnt even turned up high
just halfway