Car Audio and Electronics Custom car audio/electronics questions and discussion

Sub doesn't hit till....

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 19, 2003 | 10:27 PM
  #1  
Mad_Ice's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 83
From: Naperville, IL
Question Sub doesn't hit till....

Well kind of as the suject says, the sub and amp doesn't seem to be hitting hard or putting out to much power until it warms up or I've been driving the car for a while. Sometimes it hits a few seconds after I turn the car on and sometimes it never turns on (well it does turn on, but doesn't hit hard). I was thinking this is maybe because I don't have a cap?

The setup is a Alpine Type-R and a MTX 6500D amp. All conections are perfect since they were checked many times because of a previous problem.
Old Apr 19, 2003 | 10:52 PM
  #2  
megabass's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 440
From: Connersville, Indiana, USA
Re: Sub doesn't hit till....

Originally posted by Mad_Ice
Well kind of as the suject says, the sub and amp doesn't seem to be hitting hard or putting out to much power until it warms up or I've been driving the car for a while. Sometimes it hits a few seconds after I turn the car on and sometimes it never turns on (well it does turn on, but doesn't hit hard). I was thinking this is maybe because I don't have a cap?

The setup is a Alpine Type-R and a MTX 6500D amp. All conections are perfect since they were checked many times because of a previous problem.
What does your voltmeter read? If you have plenty of juice, something is wired wrong or you're not getting a good signal. Maybe the gain is not adjusted correctly. Could also be a defective amp I suppose. I know on my system, I can reach in and turn the key backwards (car is off) and my system pounds like a **** right away. Your amps should not need to "warm up" in order to make your sub hit.
Old Apr 19, 2003 | 10:56 PM
  #3  
Mad_Ice's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 83
From: Naperville, IL
12.5 - 12.6 volts. It does the same thing when I turn the key to the left. Everything is wired correctly. I'm gonna have to mess with the levels on the amp, but the gain is basically on max.
Old Apr 20, 2003 | 04:08 AM
  #4  
firebirdude's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,119
Originally posted by Mad_Ice
but the gain is basically on max.
That's NOT a good thing..... match the gain setting on the amp with the output voltage of your head unit.

And you should probably be reading closer to 14V with the car on..... hmmmm..... Has you system always been this way? Hmmmm....

Last edited by firebirdude; Apr 20, 2003 at 02:46 PM.
Old Apr 20, 2003 | 11:01 AM
  #5  
x7x7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 450
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
What's the crossover set to? Set the gain properly. Have you checked the box for leaks?
Old Apr 20, 2003 | 02:30 PM
  #6  
firebirdude's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,119
I kinda ruled out a leaky box, because he said it plays great after the car (or maybe amp?) warms up. What does it sound like when it's not playing right? There is still SOME sound right? That's the wierd part..... Do you have to drive the car around for it to start sounding good? Or can you just wait in your driveway for it to start bumpin? Maybe a loose wire? Ground? Measure the voltage to the amp when it's not sounding good. Then measure it again when its poundin hard. Any difference? Also, test the output of your alternator. Like I mentioned before, you should probably be measuring closer to 14V at the amp with the car running. Is all your grounds solid? Metal to metal? I once had a friend who didn't scrap off all the paint on his ground. He was getting the same symtoms as you. We measured the input voltage and it was bouncing between 11.9 and 12.1V . His amp had low voltage protection so it kept shuting down when it got below 12V. Your amp's protection light doesn't come on does it? Amps always work better when cool...... I don't think warming up is what is making it work correctly.

Last edited by firebirdude; Apr 20, 2003 at 03:01 PM.
Old Apr 21, 2003 | 01:06 PM
  #7  
Mad_Ice's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 83
From: Naperville, IL
Its sounds great when it hits and hits hard. When it doesn't seem to hit as hard, it still works and sounds fine (just not alot of bass). I could just turn the stereo on (without the car on) and sometimes it works right away, and sometimes it takes a few mins. Same goes for when I turn the car on.

The box has not one leak, the 1st day it did but that was fixed right away. None of the wires are loose.
Old Apr 21, 2003 | 01:08 PM
  #8  
Mad_Ice's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 83
From: Naperville, IL
I do have to still adjust all the things on the amp, but it sounds really good the way it is now when it hits. The gain is at about 85-90%.
Old Apr 21, 2003 | 03:55 PM
  #9  
96 Z 28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 640
From: East Granby CT
Did you Reverse the Polarity when you hooked up the speaker wires...

This would give you some sound but it would be muted... When it does hit is this a LOT of Bass. Try reversing the Polarity of the wires and see if that helps???
Old Apr 21, 2003 | 10:59 PM
  #10  
Mad_Ice's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 83
From: Naperville, IL
Originally posted by 96 Z 28
Did you Reverse the Polarity when you hooked up the speaker wires...

This would give you some sound but it would be muted... When it does hit is this a LOT of Bass. Try reversing the Polarity of the wires and see if that helps???
I tried reversing it and no help.

And yes when it does hit, it really hits . I'm suprized today since I had no problems with it. Drove the car in the morning and it was good, and then tested it in the afternoon by just turning the key towards me and still worked.
Old Apr 21, 2003 | 11:54 PM
  #11  
firebirdude's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,119
Originally posted by firebirdude
Measure the voltage to the amp when it's not sounding good. Then measure it again when its poundin hard. Any difference? Also, test the output of your alternator. Like I mentioned before, you should probably be measuring closer to 14V at the amp with the car running. Is all your grounds solid? Metal to metal? I once had a friend who didn't scrap off all the paint on his ground. He was getting the same symtoms as you. We measured the input voltage and it was bouncing between 11.9 and 12.1V . His amp had low voltage protection so it kept shuting down when it got below 12V. Your amp's protection light doesn't come on does it?
Old Apr 22, 2003 | 03:42 PM
  #12  
Mad_Ice's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 83
From: Naperville, IL
The light does not come on. The MTX protection light is when the red light does not turn on or stay on. When I look its always on.
Old Apr 30, 2003 | 01:59 PM
  #13  
Mad_Ice's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 83
From: Naperville, IL
Angry

Well the problem came back! It was working fairly well for the past 2 weeks (still would only work 60% of the time). But for the past 2 days now it hasen't worked. I turned everything on the amp to max just to get it hitting, but nothing compared to how it hits when it is actually workin.

I asked a person I know at Circuit City and he said after a few months his system started doing the same thing and he says its a amp. We are both confused because all the parts are brand new, but this really sucks and is starting to **** me off that the amp only works when it wants to. I really don't wanna have to go though the trouble of taking my amp rack apart and have to send the amp back to MTX and wait a few months to get a new amp back, just to fix something that is probably their problem!

I really need to vent right now, I heard nothing but good things with MTX and I of course have to get the defective stuff.

firebirdude - The voltage stays the same when it works and does not work. The ground is very nice and solid, bolted directly to the car.
Old May 1, 2003 | 08:52 AM
  #14  
robtombie's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 90
From: Tennessee
Check under the hood at your battery connection. I had a similar problem. The factory speakers hit harder than the sub, then suddenly it would work. What I found out was the connection at the battery was connected, but it wasn't good. Kept moving around, it was getting juice, just not enough. I reseated the power and it worked great. If that doesn't help. Switch out amps with a friend and see what happens. One amp doesn't mean they are all bad. Is weird most of the MTX amps are "tested at the factory".
Old May 3, 2003 | 04:04 PM
  #15  
stik6shift98's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,254
From: Darien, IL, usa (Chicago W.Suburbs)
what gauge wiring is it run with


maybe sometime in the near future u can bring it by and i will look at it

or we can meet up somewhere

i hope u still have my number
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F'n1996Z28SS
Cars For Sale
8
Aug 23, 2023 11:19 PM
BigWil
LT1 Based Engine Tech
12
Mar 29, 2015 12:24 PM
NewsBot
2010 - 2015 Camaro News, Sightings, Pictures, and Multimedia
1
Mar 13, 2015 07:15 AM
mark0006
2010 - 2015 Camaro News, Sightings, Pictures, and Multimedia
0
Feb 3, 2015 05:12 PM
Red97LT1
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
9
Dec 17, 2014 06:13 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:42 PM.